Connectx Molex connectors

[EatSpam]

I'm thinking about getting some of these Connectx? Low Profile Molex Connectors. Anyone ever use these or anything similar?

(I'd search, but search appears to be down.)

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

Yes, I've used them...Why do you ask ?

Do you need a tutorial ?


...Galvanized

 

[EatSpam]

Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
Yes, I've used them...Why do you ask ?

Do you need a tutorial ?


...Galvanized

Sure.

I'd just like to know how well they work, any problems, that sort of thing.

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

Fellow Zippy/Emacs user because of past work experiance(HD mechanic) and some very
helpful imput from Zepper, no connection in my little world is made-up dry or unsoldered.

The pass-throughs tiny cover is trimed on both sides, the others are closed on one side.
This is the only differance between the two.

They accept 18AWG the best, although with heavy tinning 24AWG could be fitted.

I strip, lite-twist, lite-tin, then press home with the blunted end of a 3/32" drill.
The shank end of the drill was just touched to a grinder. The instructions say to use a small
screwdrive, but the results were not satisfactoy=below my standards anyway.
The lite-tinning keeps the wire stiff and really facilitates entry :evil:
After the wire is home a touch of ProGold is applied to the connection. This is but one of
many conductant, lubricant, protectants out there. www.caig.com for info on ProGold.

I do tin before crimping Molex pins so tinning before using these Zoot connectors is no big
deal for me.

I would strongly reccomend buying several extras to practice on before doing the real deal.
It really helps having a third hand, like a small, soft-jawed vise.

Using these is a little more fiddley than crimping on large Molex pins then shoving them
into thier shell but the end result is quite nice even though the contact between wire and
metal pin is reduced and that is why I use a conductant on them.


...Galvanized

 

[EatSpam]

Thanks for the info!

Wow, that's rather involved. I think I got it all except for one part. When using the pass-throughs, you'd have to strip in the middle of a piece of wire. How do you do that?

This project I have in mind involves my 700w Zippy/EMACs PSU. In their infinite wisdom, there are 3 leads with the drive Molex connectors, 1 lead with the drive Molex and the floppy connector, then 4 leads with a single SATA connector. 4 standalone SATA connectors is kind of useless. I want to remove those SATA connectors and replace with 3 Molex connectors per lead.

My other idea was to get something like this: Power Supply "T-Style" Cable - 3 Connector I'd cut off the make Molex on the end plus the SATA connector on the PSU lead, then twist, solder, and shrink tube it. That might be easier, given what I have in mind.

Opinion?

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

It's only involved getting set-up, once doing it, the work goes fast.

Cutting out a center section of insulation is easy. Using good, sharp wire stripper, two cuts are made 5/16"apart, then a single sided razor cuts between the stripper cuts and the insulation is pulled off. The wire is given half a twist then tinned.

I never saw those(the link) before doing mine but the thought of making it kind of semi-modular did cross my mind. I have many extra male/female 4-pin Molex shells.

I know that I'm rather anal about wiring connections but when working as a mobil mechanic atleast 25% of the electrical work I did was reworking someone elses Mickey Mouse effort at pretending they knew what they were doing.
My mind set for electrical work is like wearing a belt and suspenders

You know the big butt connectors ppl use in automotive work ? Well this is what I've been doing for my comp splicing. At ACE Hardware I bought 3/32"copper tubing, using sharp wire stripper 5/16"lengths were cut, 18AWG was tinned, inserted, crimped, then sweated, then heat-shrink applied.
This works for me because I can be all thumbs at times, plus it give a very definate splice=no cold solder joints.


...Galvanized