Computer won't start after installing new PSU and GPU.

[minhogang]

I've installed a corsair 500w power supply and a nvidia gtx 950. I believe I put all the pins correctly (20+4 pin motherboard, 4-pin CPU, GPU, drives, f_panel, etc.) and the computer does not start even for a millisecond. No fans running, no lights. Yes, I did flick the OI switch and the computer was plugged off until I was done with installation.

The fault is definitely not the power supply, I did a voltage check on it and it's working fine. I even plugged the old PSU in and that didn't work. So I'm guessing it is the motherboard.

Do motherboards get destroyed when I wiggle them a little? It took me a bit of force to take the old 24 pin cable out.

I doubt this is a mobo short circuit issue because the computer is completely dead. In a short circuit one would expect the system to power for a second then shut down. Any help is appreciated. thanks!

Specs:
Intel i5 6400
1TB hard drive
8GB DDR4
Corsair 500w PSU
Nvidia gtx 950
Asus H110 motherboard

 

[Ketchup]

Take out the video card and see if the board will boot without it. Make sure all the mounting holes in the motherboard have a screw. Make sure there is a fan connected to the CPU fan connection.

If that doesn't work, start unplugging other things until it turns on. If you still get nothing, could be a bad power supply.

 

[minhogang]

So a power supply could still be faulty even if I get voltage readings from the voltmeter?
I tried just plugging in the 24 pin but still yielded no results.

 

[UsandThem]

Do motherboards get destroyed when I wiggle them a little? It took me a bit of force to take the old 24 pin cable out.

It can if you use too much force.
However, I'd double check all your connections to make sure they are firmly in.

Make sure you have your power switch, reset, hdd led, etc on correct pins. Then make sure the + and - is not reversed on them.

If still no luck, do what Ketchup recommends by removing the video card. If still no luck, remove parts from case and place it on non-conductive surface (wood or box) and try to start it by touching both the power switch pins with a screwdriver or paper clip.

If still no go, it would be down to motherboard or CPU. Inspect CPU and motherboard socket for bent pins or physical damage. If you have another motherboard or have a friend that has one, you can test the CPU. If not, the safe bet would be on motherboard because if the ram or CPU had issues, it still would show some kind of life, fans spin, or beep if you have speaker attached.

 

[UsandThem]

So a power supply could still be faulty even if I get voltage readings from the voltmeter?
I tried just plugging in the 24 pin but still yielded no results.

You said you tried another known-working PSU and there still was nothing, right?

 

[Harvey]

Are you sure you connected all of the wire pairs from front panel to the right connectors on the motherboard? If so, the problem could be the push button power switch, or the wiress or connetors.

When pushed, the front panel power switch merely momentarily shorts across the two power connector pins on the motherboard. You can test this by shorting across those two pins with something like a screwdriver blade.

Also, be sure you have all other power connectors for the CPU and your vid card, ifi necessary.

Good luck.

 

[minhogang]

Most likely the problem with the panel wires. I did connect the f_panel wires correctly (and that green connector), but I haven't opened the ones leading to the from LED. I don't remember taking out any wires leading to the front LED though. Maybe I might have touched something along the way.

 

[UsandThem]

Most likely the problem with the panel wires. I did connect the f_panel wires correctly (and that green connector), but I haven't opened the ones leading to the from LED. I don't remember taking out any wires leading to the front LED though. Maybe I might have touched something along the way.

The led, hdd activity, and reset don't even have to be installed for it to power on. The only one you need connected for it to power on is the pwrsw.

If you know 100% you have it installed on the correct pins (and correct orientation + and -), and it still doesn't power on when you push your power button, remove it and briefly touch both of those pins at the same time with a flathead screwdriver to rule out a bad power switch.

 

[minhogang]

I think I may have found the problem. I plugged in the new power supply into my primitive dell pc and the motherboard lights turned on.

So what do I do here now? It's definitely a broken 24-pin connector or the whole motherboard broke.

None of the pins are broken; they look perfectly fine.

 

[AnonymouseUser]

Your best bet now is to remove the motherboard and test it out of the case. Use the onboard video instead of the gtx 950.

 

[minhogang]

I actually just gave it in to my local computer tech/electrician. There's no way a mb can be destroyed just by tugging a bit at the 24 pin. I hope it's some circuit issue.

 

[UsandThem]

I actually just gave it in to my local computer tech/electrician. There's no way a mb can be destroyed just by tugging a bit at the 24 pin. I hope it's some circuit issue.

I'd have to disagree with that. Computer parts are sensitive. They can be destroyed by touching a part with your finger if you are not grounded and have some static electricity from your clothes or the carpet.

Anytime you are 'tugging a bit' on a connection, you can pull it loose or break one of the many traces going to the part. Whenever a person states they had to 'tug' at something and now it doesn't work, that is an immediate red-flag.

Going with a computer shop is a probably a good idea in this case.

Good luck.

 

[mikeymikec]

Btw, a new PSU with only a 4-pin CPU connector isn't something I've encountered for a good few years. Admittedly when I check my usual supplier for the cheapest possible PSUs there were quite a few with only 1x4 pin CPU connector, but every Corsair one they list has 2x4-pin (or how they label it: 4+4-pin).

 

[minhogang]

My whole computer case is made with metal, and I did some work with the motherboard on the case, so I believe there wouldn't be damage by static? I don't remember wearing any socks that day.

About the tugging part, that 24 pin is really the hardest to pull out. I might have to limit myself to not remove the cable often.

 

[UsandThem]

Btw, a new PSU with only a 4-pin CPU connector isn't something I've encountered for a good few years. Admittedly when I check my usual supplier for the cheapest possible PSUs there were quite a few with only 1x4 pin CPU connector, but every Corsair one they list has 2x4-pin (or how they label it: 4+4-pin).

He never listed the power supply or motherboard model number (just 500w Corsair and Asus H110).

Since the H110 chipset isn't an overclocking board, from what I saw when looking for some specs, most of the H110 motherboards only have a 4-pin CPU connection.

My whole computer case is made with metal, and I did some work with the motherboard on the case, so I believe there wouldn't be damage by static? I don't remember wearing any socks that day.

About the tugging part, that 24 pin is really the hardest to pull out. I might have to limit myself to not remove the cable often.

Yeah, it's hard to tell. You always want to make sure you are grounded before touching a computer part. Some people wear little wrist bands that are connected to metal, and some like myself will touch unpainted metal before touching a part. You can build up static electricity from your clothes.

The 24 pin connector is tight, but if you pull back the little catch on the cable's connector and kind of rock it from side to side a little, it comes right out. You really shouldn't have to tug it if that little 'catch' is released from the motherboard connector's 'slide' or 'ramp' that keeps it securely in place.

 

[mikeymikec]

He never listed the power supply or motherboard model number (just 500w Corsair and Asus H110).

Since the H110 chipset isn't an overclocking board, from what I saw when looking for some specs, most of the H110 motherboards only have a 4-pin CPU connection.

Perhaps I should have been more specific. My point has nothing to do with the board, but how actually new the PSU is (if the OP bought it new and recently, I wonder whether he bought it somewhere that was selling off some seriously old stock, which kinda flies in the face of buying something "new", as well as potential complications of PSU compatibility with newer Intel hardware - google Corsair and C7 compatibility, for example).

 

[UsandThem]

Perhaps I should have been more specific. My point has nothing to do with the board, but how actually new the PSU is (if the OP bought it new and recently, I wonder whether he bought it somewhere that was selling off some seriously old stock, which kinda flies in the face of buying something "new", as well as potential complications of PSU compatibility with newer Intel hardware - google Corsair and C7 compatibility, for example).

Yeah, there are many different models, so it's tough to say. I'm not sure if the power supply only has one 4-pin or split 2 x 4 pin. There are still a few older power supplies that are still available for purchase that aren't even Haswell ready, let alone Skylake.

But without a model number provided, I can only make an educated guess.

 

[Ketchup]

If he has a new unit, the CX is the only series that has a 500-watt model. It comes with the 8-pin aux power cable.