Computer turns on, then shuts off

[ChrisVE]

I just installed an AMD Thunderbird 1GHz, Asus A7V motherboard, 3DCool.com Socket Freezer, 3DCool.com Thunderbird Spacer, and two sticks of SyncMax PC133 256MB SDRAM into my Athlon system.

Before this, it was working without a hitch on an Athlon 700MHz, Asus K7M motherbard, and 128MB PC100 SDRAM.

After I installed the new parts into it, it no longer worked. When I turn it on, it goes through its boot up process (the fans will spin) and then it sounds like its about to start up, and clicks off.

I've tried removing everything and just having the CPU in the motherboard, and it still does the same thing (I hear no beeps, warnings, or what have you).

When I remove the CPU entirely, and just the motherboard stands by itself, the computer won't click off, but sounds an alarm.

I've tried multiple sticks of RAM (one and two at a time -- I tried one stick of 128MB PC100 SDRAM to be exact)and video cards (3dfx Voodoo5 5500 AGP and GeForce 32MB DDR.

I have also tried various voltage settings (1.85, 1.75, 1.70, and 1.65), as well as various I/O Voltage settings (3.35, 3.56, and 3.69).

I have tried taking the motherboard off of jumperless mode, and setting the speed manually according to Asus' website, but it still does the same thing.

A lot have been have been telling me that the CPU is bad, while others are telling me its the voltage. Any idea what's up? Thanks for anything that you can suggest!

 

[diabolos]

If your setup worked before just fine, and everything is AMD approved (Power supply, etc). Then it might be the CPU. I would go to a place that has a return policy like Fry's electronics, and pick up a duron, or another t-bird to test your system. If it posts then its your cpu. If still no worky then its something else. Let us know what you find out.

P.S.
Being a tech I need to ask this question. I know it upsets some, but
did make sure that none of the drive cables are backwards? Also you might want to pull the reset button cable off the board. I have seen some boards freak out if it is backwards, or if the button is shorted.

Later

 

[ChrisVE]

My area is quite small, and I don't have any chip dealers around here, so that'd be kind of difficult to pull off.

However, I am 100% sure that the cables are plugged in correctly. I'll try them again, but I'm pretty sure there in correctly.

Right now, I'm attempting to boot it without the reset switch plugged in, so...


Thanks for the tips, BTW!

 

[theblackangus]

Diablos had a good idea, Make sure you can put your old cpu in and still have it work.
1. Does the old cpu work with the old memeory?
2 Does the old cpu work with new memory?
Thats the first two questions.
Ill reply more after you can tell me those =)
Good luck!

 

[ballpoint]

I know this is may seem dumb, but did you pull out the motherboard too to make sure a something like a screw didn't get stuck underneath and may be shorting something out? Just my .02, since it may look like either the CPU or board.

 

[ChrisVE]

There was actually a screw floating around in there, but I removed it from the cash.

 

[HishamSakr]

I have assumed that you have tried all the obvious things like replacing each component with a spare you know that works so you can isolate the faulty component (if there is one).
So i recommend stupid suggestions,like try removing your motherboard from the case and leave it on an insulated surface. leave power, keyboard plugged in etc. I have seen lots of dumb problems arise from shortcircuiting.
Also, tried resetting the cmos info? use the little jumper to do it, and while you are doing it remove the power plug from the mb for a few seconds before plugging it back in and putting the jumper back. (seriously, ive had to do this to get my pc to reset the info properly).

 

[HartmutG]

As I understand, you are able to open your bios menu, so there are two possibilities:
1. your CPU, RAM or motherboard is not working
2. your CPU, RAM and motherboard dont work togehter in this configuration.

to check if your motherboard is ok, just plug in your old CPU and Ram. if that works, exchange the cpu. 1 GHz is quite a task for any hardware. But you should not play around with the core voltage setting of your mainboard (leave it automatic). next thing is to use one new 133 Mhz Ram stick. Go to the advanced options menu and select 3 circles for your ram. it could be, that in auto mode your mainboard trys to access the ram with 2 waitcircles (sorry, don't know the correct english word). But it is quite common, that the ram internals have a mistake and that you can only access it with 3 circles.
last thing you could try is a low tech Graphics board (tnt, voodoo3. Geforce and Voodoo5 both need a lot of power and even if you have a 300w power supply, could be that this is not strong enough (had that problem myself).
Last tipp (once i had problems with that) disconnect mouse and keypoard and try to run it. Once my keyboard was out of order and I couldn't start my computer with it attached (a very nasty bug to figure out).

Good luck
Hartmut

 

[HartmutG]

oh yeah forgot, you use 256 MB Ram sticks? these 256er have quite a lot problems, cause the connectors to the chips are longer than on 128 MB sticks. Don`t think you should be able to run them in 133 MHz 2/2/2 Mode.

Greetings Hartmut

 

[ChrisVE]

I'm only using one stick, at the moment. And yes, I have tried booting it out of the case, only to witness the same thing to occur. Right now I have the motherboard on rubber-coated risers, as well as screws that have a rubber stoppers (you know, those little things that go on screws and stuff) on them screwing it in.

I can't even get to the screen to post (no BIOS menu access), but yes, I have tried it without the keyboard and mouse.

I only have those two video cards available at the moment, so I can't really test anything else.

 

[ChrisVE]

Oh, and I have also resetted the CMOS.

 

[Buggerlugs]

What PSU are you using chris ? Also have you checked out each cable from the psu and none have any little nicks or breaks in them?

Just a thought.......

 

[ChrisVE]

300w power supply, as part of 3DCool.com's Tornado 1000 case. As I said, this case was running another Athlon fine before this (not even a day ago, so I doubt its broken in less than a day).

 

[theblackangus]

Another thought. Are you ocing?
If not what are the processor "goldenbridge" settings. Check the compared to
http://www6.tomshardware.com/cpu/00q3/000711/amd-04.html

and see if those match the 1000 Mhz bridge settings.

Oh and did you try the old processor and old memory since this whole fisaco started?

Theblackangus

 

[theblackangus]

repeat post

Theblackangus

 

[theblackangus]

repeat post. sorry.

Theblackangus

 

[theblackangus]

Oops! sorry about that everyone!

 

[ChrisVE]

The CPU is locked so I cannot overclock.

I have tried the old SDRAM, but the other Athlon CPU is Slot A, so I can't test that out.

 

[theblackangus]

Check the bridge settings since you cannot be sure the person you bought it from didnt cheat you =)

But other then that ... sounds like you do have a bad system board or cpu.
Good luck man. Ill ask more if I can thing of it.

 

[garindan]

Hi Chris, i can't believe that no one has mentioned this yet but have you tried a different hard drive? I know this has been the problem for me in the past in similar circumstances so if you've got another its worth giving it a try. I know it was working a couple of days ago but at this stage you have to try everything. Cheers

 

[ChrisVE]

Guess what, guys? I've figured it out! I have determined that, despite the fact that it is in working condition, the power supply is the cause of the problem. It just isn't enough.

How did I determine this? Well, I determind that the motherboard works by removing the CPU and ensuring that an alarm sounded. It did. I know the RAM isn't at fault because the stick I have been using has worked before in another computer. I then disconnected everything except the motherboard from the power supply, and the computer stayed on. To determine that the CPU was working, I tested the case's switch. It, indeed, worked. Seeing as how the switch is operated by the BIOS, and the BIOS cannot run without its ROM code being run by the CPU, I determined that the CPU was in working order.

To confirm that the power supply wasn't enough, and it was flicking off because it was being overloaded (I also know that it was an automatic shutdown because after it shutdown, the switch no longer worked), I plugged the hard-drive in along with the motherboard. Sure enough, after a few seconds of operation, the computer turned itself off and the power switch no longer worked.

I found that the motherboard and the CD-ROM drive plugged in at once was fine, but anything else after that caused an automatic power shutdown.

Figured you'd all like to know.

This confirms that the AMD 1GHz Thunderbird requires quite a lot of power. I haven't tested a new power supply out yet (the computer which I'm currently on has a special one), but I will do so tomorrow and let you know what happens.

Thanks to everyone who helped out, especially those of you who suggested that the power supply was the problem!

I've had this theory backed up by a couple different people's accounts, as well as a certified technician, FYI.

 

[diabolos]

I don't know. If all you have the PS plugged into is cpu, ram, and board then a 300 watt power supply should have enough voltage to at least post a 1.75 volt T-Bird gig. Working in OEM repair (Compaq, HP, ETC.) I have seen all sorts of weird things. It is probably a bad voltage regulator on the board. Unfortunatly this is still a hard thing to diag without test parts. After further reviewing your posts I would include a MoBo replacement with your parts replacements.

 

[toque]

Ok.. Let do tha figures:
1.75V for Athlon Tbird..
Tha 700mhz part is rated around a max draw of 39W
Which works out to around a 22 amp draw..
Tha 1ghz part is rated around a max draw of 55W
Which works out to around a 32 amp draw..
Now tha 1.75V for tha cpu would be drawin power from tha 5v output on tha power supply.. What is your power supplys available output current at 5v?
Thanx,
Toque..

 

[Propeye]

I'm working on my third thunderbird chip.The first 1 broke when i installed the heat sink and fan.Second 1 fryed so did the motherboard.Took the them back and the sales rep. said i had the wrong heat sink and fan.I said the 1 u guys sold me and installed then checked.I got the new motherbard and chip at no cost and paid for a new heat sink and fan,the size of the state texas.But it didnt fit into my case any more.I had a Enlight 7237 with a 235 watt power supply and it ran my 700 thunderbird slot a just fine untill the day the cpu and motherboard wouldnt post.I bet a 1 gig. does take alot of power,but I also bet a good 250 power supply will run it.U got to take great care when installing the heatsink and fan or u will damage the cpu.I wish amd put the metal caseings on there K6 2s.

 

[Talon456]

Chris my cousin had this EXACT same problem and the solution was so stupidly simple we felt embarassed. Check a couple things for me:
The power switch in front and the switch ON the power supply--are they both "on?" Double check this. Even though we had the switch on for the power supply, we didn't push the switch on the front (we just assumed since there was initial power that it was switched on. Also make sure the wire from the front power switch is connected correctly--I know it seems dumb but I recall that on that ASUS board the orientation of the power leads was different than some of the other leads. Just try this stuff out even if your skeptical because it worked for us!