Closet Flange

[olds]

Is it just sitting the floor, glued into the drain pipe?

 

[Greenman]

Should be 6 or 8 screws holding it down, unless it's old school cast iron, then it's just sitting on the floor and connected to the pipe.

 

[NetWareHead]

Should be 6 or 8 screws holding it down, unless it's old school cast iron, then it's just sitting on the floor and connected to the pipe.

A CI closet flange is usually strong enough on its own but it cant hurt to be screwed in like a PVC flange. The CI flanges have holes for floor anchoring anyway. I'd rather drive in a few screws and have the peace of mind of a solid foundation for the toilet.

OP, make sure your screws penetrate the flooring and anchor into the subfloor. Use the largest diameter screws the flange will take. Flange should be flush with the finished floor in an ideal installation.

 

[olds]

It's PVC and it isn't level so the toilet wobbles. I'll dig out the left over wax and look for screws.

 

[NetWareHead]

It's PVC and it isn't level so the toilet wobbles. I'll dig out the left over wax and look for screws.

Scrape out the wax and put a level on the flange. Slightly off level by a 1/4 inch is probably ok. You have to take this into account and tighten the closet bolt less on the lower side of the flange. More than that I'd get a plumber in there to correct.

You cant just screw the flange in tighter to the floor to correct the out of level condition. PVC flanges are glued to the pipe below and tightening the screws will stress that pipe downward and crack it or even eliminate the drainage pitch.

If you leave the flange where it is, shim the base of toilet to eliminate the wobble. Important the toilet itself not touch the flange. The flange and pipe should not bear any weight of toilet and person.

If you leave the flange out of level, do not use a wax ring. Wax does not tolerate movement. Wax-less rings are made of pliable plastic; some that extend downward into the flange and have a greater chance of sealing, especially on a non-level flange. Do a dry fit of toilet first and assess.

Last thing, dont caulk the base of toilet to finished floor. If you do experience a leak, the caulk will seal the leak under toilet and you wont know until too late. You want the water to run out and tell you.

 

[Greenman]

Scrape out the wax and put a level on the flange. Slightly off level by a 1/4 inch is probably ok. You have to take this into account and tighten the closet bolt less on the lower side of the flange. More than that I'd get a plumber in there to correct.

You cant just screw the flange in tighter to the floor to correct the out of level condition. PVC flanges are glued to the pipe below and tightening the screws will stress that pipe downward and crack it or even eliminate the drainage pitch.

If you leave the flange where it is, shim the base of toilet to eliminate the wobble. Important the toilet itself not touch the flange. The flange and pipe should not bear any weight of toilet and person.

If you leave the flange out of level, do not use a wax ring. Wax does not tolerate movement. Wax-less rings are made of pliable plastic; some that extend downward into the flange and have a greater chance of sealing, especially on a non-level flange. Do a dry fit of toilet first and assess.

Last thing, dont caulk the base of toilet to finished floor. If you do experience a leak, the caulk will seal the leak under toilet and you wont know until too late. You want the water to run out and tell you.

Disagree with the part in bold. Sealing the WC to the finished floor is required in CA. It's also sensible as that space can't be cleaned, and will stink after a while.

 

[olds]

I have caulked them before but I always leave an opening in the back for water to escape.
I see no screws, it looks glued in place.

I'll have a plumber reset the flange, it's too much wobble.

Thanks.

 

[NetWareHead]

I have caulked them before but I always leave an opening in the back for water to escape.

Great idea. :thumbsup: