Cleaning up my 8800GTS

tofumonster

Member
May 25, 2007
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I'm sure opening up the card will be fairly self-explanatory, but my questions pertain to the stock cooling device on it.

Is it mounted by screws? or thermal tape? If its mounted with thermal tape, how do I get it off? Also, where can I get some to replace it (like local Walgreens or something?)

Also, should I use Ceramique or AS-5? does it matter? I believe that I'll have to put some kind of TIM between the RAM chips (thus I'd use the ceramique because its non-conductive) on the graphics card and the heat sink right? or no? o.o?

After I open up the GFX card, what do I do/what will I see? I know these questions seem a tad ignorant, but I've never seen inside my graphics card (this is the first time cleaning) so i'm not sure what to expect.

Any advice would help a lot.

Thanks.

tofumonster
 

nitromullet

Diamond Member
Jan 7, 2004
9,031
36
91
If you're not going to replace the the stock cooler or stock thermal grease with something else, there really isn't any reason to remove the heatsink. Your card doesn't need cleaning between the heatsink and the gpu. It might get a little dusty over time, and it's a good idea to blow some compressed air on it every now and then, especially the fan and heatsink. That is pretty much all the cleaning your card should ever need.
 

Hauk

Platinum Member
Nov 22, 2001
2,806
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Phew, scary! Dont' remove stock cooler because you need to clean the card. As Nitro said, unless you're replacing cooler with something else or applying better TIM, leave that puppy on there.

Canned air. Work the wand in and around the fan, and into the exaust vent for some reverse air cleaning. Repeat several times. That's all you need..
 

tofumonster

Member
May 25, 2007
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Whoops. Sorry. I AM going to put better TIM in there.

So what would I have to do? put it on the ram chips as well as the "core"?
 

Hauk

Platinum Member
Nov 22, 2001
2,806
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So first time removing a cooler from a graphics card. Applying new TIM is not that difficult, but requires a steady hand, some time, and patience.

Before you consider the project, do know, there are several areas that require contact with the heatsink. They are the GPU, memory, PWM's (power modules), and the shader core.

Study this picture.

Circled in white are the PWM's, shader core, memory modules, and GPU. All except GPU have a gap between them and the heatsink surface. That gap is bridged by a parrifin/paste thermal patches several mils thick. The only thing in a tube I've found thick enough to bridge the gap and stay put is Arctic Ceramique. With GPU core, a thin layer of TIM is required. You can use AS5, but if you don't have any, just use Ceramique. It performs nearly as well and is non-conductive.

The cooler is bolted on by silver screws and two black screws on the PCI bracket. Unplug fan lead using finger nails, tweezers, or some other safe method. Remove black screws then silver screws. Hold unit as one and gently pull cooler off of card. May need a slight twist.

Clean all mentioned surfaces with 90% ISP alcohol and Q-Tips. Clean heatsink surfaces as well.

Ceramique is thick, and "strings" when you pull the tube tip away from the application surface. Best method is to make contact with the surface, squeeze out a nice size bead centered that nearly covers the surface, then "cut" off the flow by edging the tube tip on the edge of the memory or PWM. Remember, a nice tall bead, several mm high. Don't worry about it oozing over, it's non-conductive. Finish off by applying thin layer to GPU per TIM instructions.

Now to dock the cooler in place! Best method I've found is have card on a flat surface, and bring the cooler in at an angle to line up the black screw holes with the holes in the PCI bracket. Keeping things in line, lower the cooler down onto the card. Keep the fan cord free and clear. Screw black screws in. Give the cooler a slight, direct push down to make contact with all surfaces.

Holding the card as one, flip over and begin screwing in silver screws. They're spring loaded so tighten down just enough. Never overtighten these screws. I use thumb and first two fingers on screw driver. That's all the pressure you need.

If you did it right, you should be able look into the side and see the Ceramique nicely spread and bridging the gap very well. Some may have oozed over, no worries.

Hope this info helps. Best I could do in the time allotted.
 

Keysplayr

Elite Member
Jan 16, 2003
21,209
50
91
OP, are you sure you really want to attempt this? If you don't know what you are doing (and I understand you are trying to find out how to do it here) you can make your card worse than better. You could break off a resistor, a capacitor, scratch a trace in the PCB severing a critical ground or power feed. The stock hsf is mounted pretty nicely.

Is this something you really want to get into?
 

Hauk

Platinum Member
Nov 22, 2001
2,806
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Thanks Keys, I meant to insert a word of caution but got caught up in describing the procedure. Reading the OP made me cringe this morning.

While you found some info, please know OP, this isn't something you need to do. The stock TIM is meant to last for years, and even the best TIM offers little if any gain on graphics cards. There is a first time for everything, but you should decide if this is the card you want to use as a platform for your learning.
 

tofumonster

Member
May 25, 2007
135
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Originally posted by: keysplayr2003
OP, are you sure you really want to attempt this? If you don't know what you are doing (and I understand you are trying to find out how to do it here) you can make your card worse than better. You could break off a resistor, a capacitor, scratch a trace in the PCB severing a critical ground or power feed. The stock hsf is mounted pretty nicely.

Is this something you really want to get into?

duly noted. maybe I'll give it a second thought. Thanks for the heads up.

Originally posted by: SteelSix
So first time removing a cooler from a graphics card. Applying new TIM is not that difficult, but requires a steady hand, some time, and patience.

Before you consider the project, do know, there are several areas that require contact with the heatsink. They are the GPU, memory, PWM's (power modules), and the shader core.

Study this picture.

Circled in white are the PWM's, shader core, memory modules, and GPU. All except GPU have a gap between them and the heatsink surface. That gap is bridged by a parrifin/paste thermal patches several mils thick. The only thing in a tube I've found thick enough to bridge the gap and stay put is Arctic Ceramique. With GPU core, a thin layer of TIM is required. You can use AS5, but if you don't have any, just use Ceramique. It performs nearly as well and is non-conductive.

The cooler is bolted on by silver screws and two black screws on the PCI bracket. Unplug fan lead using finger nails, tweezers, or some other safe method. Remove black screws then silver screws. Hold unit as one and gently pull cooler off of card. May need a slight twist.

Clean all mentioned surfaces with 90% ISP alcohol and Q-Tips. Clean heatsink surfaces as well.

Ceramique is thick, and "strings" when you pull the tube tip away from the application surface. Best method is to make contact with the surface, squeeze out a nice size bead centered that nearly covers the surface, then "cut" off the flow by edging the tube tip on the edge of the memory or PWM. Remember, a nice tall bead, several mm high. Don't worry about it oozing over, it's non-conductive. Finish off by applying thin layer to GPU per TIM instructions.

Now to dock the cooler in place! Best method I've found is have card on a flat surface, and bring the cooler in at an angle to line up the black screw holes with the holes in the PCI bracket. Keeping things in line, lower the cooler down onto the card. Keep the fan cord free and clear. Screw black screws in. Give the cooler a slight, direct push down to make contact with all surfaces.

Holding the card as one, flip over and begin screwing in silver screws. They're spring loaded so tighten down just enough. Never overtighten these screws. I use thumb and first two fingers on screw driver. That's all the pressure you need.

If you did it right, you should be able look into the side and see the Ceramique nicely spread and bridging the gap very well. Some may have oozed over, no worries.

Hope this info helps. Best I could do in the time allotted.

Crazy good info though. Thanks a bunch.


thanks a lot guys