• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Clay bars, how do they work?

SSSnail

SSSnail

Lifer
I've never actually used one so I have to ask. What's the best way to rub them, in a circular motion of back and forth? And, how much pressure or no pressure at all?

Usually I just wash the cars, then wax them and they turn out pretty good, but then clay bars happened and I thought it's something "new" I want to try.
 
Back and forth, no pressure at all. It's basically the same thing as sand paper, but riding on top of a film of lubricant so that only contaminants above the paint surface are sanded away.

Never put any force into it or use circular motions where your application force could vary or where you could dig the edges in. You basically want it to float under it's own weight and stick to the surface only through the lubricant adhesion. Gently and slowly slide it back and forth until you don't feel an grabbing any more and the surface is smooth to the touch like glass. The only force you want is parallel to the surface to push the bar through any snags it encounters (the impurities you are removing), but you want zero down force. Let the abrasive do the work, not your arms. Rule of thumb is just use two fingers, and as if you were moving a computer mouse across a glass table top and don't want to scratch it, and don't let the surface dry out. If it takes effort to push, you don't have enough lubricant. It should glide with ease with no friction, but you'll feel some grit as it's doing it's thing. Work on small sections at a time and remold the clay between sections to make sure you aren't just collecting all the crap and rubbing it into the rest of the car.

So many sexual innuendos here.

Think of it like shaving, you just pull the razor across your face and let the blades do the work, you don't dig in with it.
 
Last edited:
They're very easy to use. Don't use too much pressure, but do ensure that the clay conforms to the curve of the panel. Make sure the area is well-lubricated or you run the risk of scratching.

Clay before wax as claying can remove some or all of it. Polish after claying for best results.
 
Keep the clay wet; this is a must.

Also from what i can gather its best to go in straight lines (or thats what ive been told)
 
SSSnail said:
Thanks guys, that's what sssnail is going to do this weekend.
Click to expand...

Try it on a beater or someone else's beater first. Plan the whole weekend for it so you don't end up rushing. Work like that goes by quickly, then you look up and realize you still have the rest of the car to do and it's getting dark already :awe:

Also what are you wanting to clay for? You can feel things clay will remove with your fingers as you wash. Tar, bugs, gum, bits of dirt, specs, pollen, etc. If it already feels smooth like glass, you won't accomplish much claying. Clay removes things you know are still there after washing but know better than to use your fingernails or excessive pressure on the wash mit. It just removes contaminants, it doesn't correct anything.

Orange peel, swirls, or anything other than a perfect mirror finish can only be corrected with a polisher.

Anyhow don't do it because it's "something new you want to try", do it because you have specific issues and you know what you need it for. You could make things much worse if you're not careful.
 
Last edited:
exdeath said:
Try it on a beater or someone else's beater first. Plan the whole weekend for it so you don't end up rushing. Work like that goes by quickly, then you look up and realize you still have the rest of the car to do and it's getting dark already :awe:

Also what are you wanting to clay for? You can feel things clay will remove with your fingers as you wash. Tar, bugs, gum, bits of dirt, specs, etc. If it already feels smooth like glass, you won't accomplish much claying. Clay removes things you know are still there after washing but know better than to use your fingernails or excessive pressure on the wash mit. It just removes contaminants, it doesn't correct anything.

Orange peel, swirls, or anything other than a perfect mirror finish can only be corrected with a polisher.
Click to expand...
Most of it is good, but I think the bumpers and the roof of the car can use some clay as I can't scratch some of the things on there off, and I don't even know what those things are so I thought I'd try clay bars. I've been driving through bugs country lately and I think some of them are stuck. Last time I washed and waxed my car took me a good 4 hours and some beers.
 
Just treat it like it's steel wool, not a pencil eraser. It's not just clay, it's an abrasive embedded in clay. A lot of n00bs think you rub it on the paint like a pencil eraser and end up scratching the shit out of their cars.
 
Last edited:
i used clay bar on my entire pick up last week and it took me about an hour. the whole process took about 8 hours of modertly paced work. it's an easy process. what we do is a really good washing, clay bar, polish with a cream polish on a foam pad, and then a coat or 2 of cleaner wax, followed by a coat of finish wax. we use mequires products for the entire process and the finish lasts a long time. we have 4 cars in the collection plus our daily drivers. one is black water base laquer ( late 80s gm). this process brought that car from dull and boring to show room glass finish. this process workes on cars painted with modern paints and our 71' chevelle.

you can skip the polishing if your paint is not oxidised too much.

clay bar is easy. we have a spray bottle of water to wet the surface and use very light pressure on the clay, rub the clay on the surface and make sure to keep it lubricated. the clay is not like sand paper, it is a very flat surface with some adhesive properties that liftes the contaminintes from the surface. the clay itself does not scratch the surface. the contaminates on the clay scratch the surface, keep kneeding the clay for a fresh surface to keep this to a minimum. do not rub in a circle, but you do not need to rub it like stripes either, i would rather use it in a more random pattern to keep the small scratches from being in the same direction. this makes polishing a bit easier.

generic car wash soap and warm water ( we work in a heated barn)
mequires clay bar
cut and polish cream
cleaner wax
tech 2.0 wax
 
Last edited:
herm0016 said:
i used clay bar on my entire pick up last week and it took me about an hour. the whole process took about 8 hours of modertly paced work. it's an easy process. what we do is a really good washing, clay bar, polish with a cream polish on a foam pad, and then a coat or 2 of cleaner wax, followed by a coat of finish wax. we use mequires products for the entire process and the finish lasts a long time. we have 4 cars in the collection plus our daily drivers. one is black water base laquer ( late 80s gm). this process brought that car from dull and boring to show room glass finish. this process workes on cars painted with modern paints and our 71' chevelle.

you can skip the polishing if your paint is not oxidised too much.

clay bar is easy. we have a spray bottle of water to wet the surface and use very light pressure on the clay, rub the clay on the surface and make sure to keep it lubricated. the clay is not like sand paper, it is a very flat surface with some adhesive properties that liftes the contaminintes from the surface. the clay itself does not scratch the surface. the contaminates on the clay scratch the surface, keep kneeding the clay for a fresh surface to keep this to a minimum. do not rub in a circle, but you do not need to rub it like stripes either, i would rather use it in a more random pattern to keep the small scratches from being in the same direction. this makes polishing a bit easier.

generic car wash soap and warm water ( we work in a heated barn)
mequires clay bar
cut and polish cream
cleaner wax
tech 2.0 wax
Click to expand...

Any pics? As soon as it starts to get warm, I plan to do a ton of detailing on my car. 🙂
 
not fresh ones, but i could get one of my truck now. the water beads are at least a 1/4in high. it looks funny when it rains. a drive of about 30mph will blow all the water off and dry the truck!
 
I wouldn't do it unless you're going to polish. I clayed a long time ago and have terrible scratches (fine) all over the car. It really was a stupid move.
 
if you keep turning the clay you will not get scratches that are really visible, just a bit dull looking, perfectly smooth surface. a few coats of wax shines it right up if you do not want to polish.
 
herm0016 said:
i used clay bar on my entire pick up last week and it took me about an hour. the whole process took about 8 hours of modertly paced work. it's an easy process. what we do is a really good washing, clay bar, polish with a cream polish on a foam pad, and then a coat or 2 of cleaner wax, followed by a coat of finish wax. we use mequires products for the entire process and the finish lasts a long time. we have 4 cars in the collection plus our daily drivers. one is black water base laquer ( late 80s gm). this process brought that car from dull and boring to show room glass finish. this process workes on cars painted with modern paints and our 71' chevelle.

you can skip the polishing if your paint is not oxidised too much.

clay bar is easy. we have a spray bottle of water to wet the surface and use very light pressure on the clay, rub the clay on the surface and make sure to keep it lubricated. the clay is not like sand paper, it is a very flat surface with some adhesive properties that liftes the contaminintes from the surface. the clay itself does not scratch the surface. the contaminates on the clay scratch the surface, keep kneeding the clay for a fresh surface to keep this to a minimum. do not rub in a circle, but you do not need to rub it like stripes either, i would rather use it in a more random pattern to keep the small scratches from being in the same direction. this makes polishing a bit easier.

generic car wash soap and warm water ( we work in a heated barn)
mequires clay bar
cut and polish cream
cleaner wax
tech 2.0 wax
Click to expand...

Great write up!
Just ordered:
Mothers California Gold California Gold Clay Bar System
Turtlewax Polishing Compound

I know at my parents house I still have some meguiars cleaner wax

Do I need a finishing wax? Or will I be fine with a couple layers of cleaner wax? How long do you wait between layers?

Thanks!
 
Polishing compound is useless unless you have and know how to use one of these:

pc-7424xp-250.jpg
 
herm0016 said:
the clay is not like sand paper, it is a very flat surface with some adhesive properties that liftes the contaminintes from the surface. the clay itself does not scratch the surface. the contaminates on the clay scratch the surface
Click to expand...

This is bogus. The clay is an abrasive suspension, it can't pick anything up until it's been ground away from the surface.

I mean come on, they come in different colors for different grit or coarseness.

:colbert:

A bare brand new clay bar with no contaminates on clean uncontaminated dry paint WILL scratch the paint.
 
Last edited:
exdeath said:
This is bogus. The clay is an abrasive, it can't pick anything up until it's been ground away from the surface.

I mean come on, they come in different colors for different grit or coarseness.

:colbert:

A bare clay bar brand new and clean on clean uncontaminated paint WILL scratch the paint if use improperly (no lubricant, pressing too hard).
Click to expand...
I don't know that it actually is composed of abrasive in a clay matrix. If this was the case, clear would get slightly hazed every time you clayed, and though some people claim this to be true, I doubt it. I like to think of it as the clay shearing off anything that sticks through the clear.
 
Howard said:
I don't know that it actually is composed of abrasive in a clay matrix. If this was the case, clear would get slightly hazed every time you clayed, and though some people claim this to be true, I doubt it. I like to think of it as the clay shearing off anything that sticks through the clear.
Click to expand...

What is clay?

Clay (pronounced /ˌklei/) is a naturally occurring aluminium silicate composed primarily of fine-grained minerals

:biggrin:

Lubricant is used so it DOESN'T haze the paint.

Clay can reduce orange peel over time if you use it frequently enough (eg: excessively). It's a very very fine abrasive, but an abrasive none the less.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top