- Jan 5, 2011
- 79
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My apartment suffers from occasional power blips and every now and then it's enough to cause my computer to reboot. I really ought to do something about that :>
I borrowed a friends Kill-a-Watt (EZ 4460) to get an idea of what my units are roughly drawing. Measurements are typically close to idling. Here's what I've got:
Current desktop PC: 165-185 watts (PSU is a Corsair HX520.)
PS3 + Yamaha Receiver: 243 watts
TV - Panasonic 42" plasma (which I'll probably only surge protect): 105 watts
I also have a Windows Home Server unit that I did not check, but it has been doing OK on an APC Backups ES 650 (along with my 8 port hub and Linksys wireless router. (PSU is a OCZ Fatal1ty 550W.)
Other considerations:
1. I'm planning on buiding a new desktop PC soon...the current one is 4 years old running a C2D e6750...so I'm planning a build with an i7-2600k (for video encoding)...but I'm not a gamer so won't have high end graphics...just a generic card that can easily drive 2 monitors.
2. I'm planning on adding an HTPC to the living room within 6 months.
3. The Corsair HX520 PSU may be re-used either in the new desktop build or the HTPC build.
Plan:
1. Leave the WHS on the APC 650?
2. Buy a UPS for my desktop PC...something around the range of 400 watts seems like it should be plenty given the draw measured on the current pc?
3. Buy a more expensive higher capacity unit for the living room to handle the PS3 + AVR + HTPC...I think this is the one where I'm not sure what to go with. Given the 243 reading for the PS3+AVR and another minimum 200 for a new HTPC that puts me at 450 watts needed plus wiggle room.
Would the CyberPower CP1350PFCLCD do OK here? What is the real difference between the PFC vs AVR models? Or, if I went with APC, the Smart-UPS are so $$$ and not in the budget (except maybe...maybe refurbished). Is this sine wave stuff really all that important? Would one of the standard Back-UPS models be OK?
I borrowed a friends Kill-a-Watt (EZ 4460) to get an idea of what my units are roughly drawing. Measurements are typically close to idling. Here's what I've got:
Current desktop PC: 165-185 watts (PSU is a Corsair HX520.)
PS3 + Yamaha Receiver: 243 watts
TV - Panasonic 42" plasma (which I'll probably only surge protect): 105 watts
I also have a Windows Home Server unit that I did not check, but it has been doing OK on an APC Backups ES 650 (along with my 8 port hub and Linksys wireless router. (PSU is a OCZ Fatal1ty 550W.)
Other considerations:
1. I'm planning on buiding a new desktop PC soon...the current one is 4 years old running a C2D e6750...so I'm planning a build with an i7-2600k (for video encoding)...but I'm not a gamer so won't have high end graphics...just a generic card that can easily drive 2 monitors.
2. I'm planning on adding an HTPC to the living room within 6 months.
3. The Corsair HX520 PSU may be re-used either in the new desktop build or the HTPC build.
Plan:
1. Leave the WHS on the APC 650?
2. Buy a UPS for my desktop PC...something around the range of 400 watts seems like it should be plenty given the draw measured on the current pc?
3. Buy a more expensive higher capacity unit for the living room to handle the PS3 + AVR + HTPC...I think this is the one where I'm not sure what to go with. Given the 243 reading for the PS3+AVR and another minimum 200 for a new HTPC that puts me at 450 watts needed plus wiggle room.
Would the CyberPower CP1350PFCLCD do OK here? What is the real difference between the PFC vs AVR models? Or, if I went with APC, the Smart-UPS are so $$$ and not in the budget (except maybe...maybe refurbished). Is this sine wave stuff really all that important? Would one of the standard Back-UPS models be OK?