cheap cordless impact recommendation

[railer]

I already have an air impact, but am looking to pick up a cordless impact basically as a reason to amuse myself. It would be handy for snowmobile trailer lugnuts if I every broke down 100 miles from home, and, uh, there has to be a second reason for me to own one.

But anyway...not really needing or looking to spend $500 on a nice IR unit with 700 ft/lbs of torque, but I will be getting a 1/2" drive unit that is theoretically able to remove lugnuts.

Anything around 100 bucks would be sweet. Craftsman C3 1/2" impacts are a bit over $100 with the battery, and are rated at 200 ft/lbs.

HF's 1/2" impact is rated at 330 ft/lbs, and generally gets good review, and can be had for $100 after coupon.

Any experience with these units or other suggestions?

 

[franksta]

I've got the Craftsman and am very pleased. It's no problem zipping off lugnuts with it. I already had some other tools that take the same batteries so it wasn't a tough decision for me.

 

[phucheneh]

For $100, I wouldn't recommend anything that claims to be competent at lug nuts. You can't get an average Makita or Dewalt that will do more in the 30-50ftlb round for that. Well, you can get the bare tool. But you're probably looking at more like 150 with batteries or maybe 200ish if you find a good deal on a two piece drill/driver kit.

A decently stout electric impact is more in the $300-500 range. If you don't want to drop that kind of cash (I wouldn't), I'd advise a 3ft breaker bar, which will does not require much effort to break an average, properly-torqued (usually in the 80-120 range on cars) lug nut loose. Then you can just zip it off with a smaller impact. if you wanna be lazy about it.

As far as keeping it for emergency uses...sorry, that's freaking silly. Don't rely on a battery-powered device to change a tire on the side of the road. For home use...you can buy a decent Ingersol-Rand impact and a competent cheap air compressor for the same price.

 

[cbrsurfr]

I bought the IR. You won't be able to break lugs loose for $100. Read the reviews. I looked at dozens in the <$200 range and every one of them had complaints of not being able to get lug nuts loose.

 

[monkeydelmagico]

I've got a ryobi. With the bigger capacity lipo battery i did the tire rotation on three cars last fall without needing a charge/battery swap. Works for me.

 

[Midwayman]

I have the HF corded impact. It does lugs no problem. However I think its not even close to its rated torque.

 

[natto fire]

I have this Milwaukee one, and it handles every lug nut I have put it on, but it is not cheap.

I would agree with phuceneh in that you will be hard pressed to find a cordless $100 impact that will consistently handle lug nuts.

 

[SparkyJJO]

I have a Makita 18V Lithium cordless 1/2" impact. It does a great job. The impact by itself was like $150 though, and then you'd need a battery and charger. For just lugs you could probably get the smaller 3/8" model for a little cheaper.

I got my Makita because I was also buying a combo set of a drill, saw, etc that came with the batteries and charger already.

Frankly I wouldn't expect a whole lot from a cordless impact that is only $100 for everything.

 

[sontakke]

If you are going to leave the battery powered impact in the vehicle and expect it to take off the lug nuts about 9 months down the road, it does not matter how expensive impact you had bought to begin with. It will not work. Give up on battery powered impact for emergency on the road kit to be kept in your vehicle.

Now if you want to play for the fun of it and use it at your home and occasionally carry it on a weekend trips or so, get the C3 with lithium battery kit. It will be more than $100 but you will like it. It does give honest to goodness 200lb oomph. I recall recommending this to another ATG guy here and he too was happy with C3. Search for it and you will find few earlier discussions. Just make sure you get or add the lithium battery to it.

 

[brainhulk]

I haven't had any luck with cordless removing lug nuts. I just use a breaker bar to loosen then do the rest with a cordless

 

[JCH13]

200lb-ft of torque, no cord, won't lose a charge sitting in your car. Sounds like a winner to me!

Manual Impact Driver

Though its hard to substitute anything for a breaker bar + 3lb hammer when you consider cost, maintenance, and maximum torque.

I routinely use a Ridgid X4 impact driver. Has 140-150lb-ft of torque and can barely remove lug-nuts in perfect condition. For tough stuff you really can't do much with cordless equipment because they're so limited on power compared to corded or air tools.

 

[natto fire]

200lb-ft of torque, no cord, won't lose a charge sitting in your car. Sounds like a winner to me!

Manual Impact Driver

Though its hard to substitute anything for a breaker bar + 3lb hammer when you consider cost, maintenance, and maximum torque.

I routinely use a Ridgid X4 impact driver. Has 140-150lb-ft of torque and can barely remove lug-nuts in perfect condition. For tough stuff you really can't do much with cordless equipment because they're so limited on power compared to corded or air tools.

I agree on the KISS philosophy, especially if relying on something for an emergency.

However, you shouldn't let your weak cordless tool jade your view of cordless in general. I have used mine to break loose axle nuts and rusty lug nuts on a big truck which were over-torqued. Mine is rated for 450 ft-lbs, and I have yet to come against a bolt or nut it wont loosen, and when that does happen, I'll probably use that problem to justify buying the next model up.

 

[JCH13]

I agree on the KISS philosophy, especially if relying on something for an emergency.

However, you shouldn't let your weak cordless tool jade your view of cordless in general. I have used mine to break loose axle nuts and rusty lug nuts on a big truck which were over-torqued. Mine is rated for 450 ft-lbs, and I have yet to come against a bolt or nut it wont loosen, and when that does happen, I'll probably use that problem to justify buying the next model up.

This is proof that all it takes is money to solve almost any problem!

I'll caveat my statement by saying that cordless tools simply cannot compete on a cost/performance basis. I have a Nitrocat 1200k air impact gun that's rated for 1100lb-ft of loosening torque (or something crazy like that) and cost less than $200.

 

[natto fire]

This is proof that all it takes is money to solve almost any problem!

I'll caveat my statement by saying that cordless tools simply cannot compete on a cost/performance basis. I have a Nitrocat 1200k air impact gun that's rated for 1100lb-ft of loosening torque (or something crazy like that) and cost less than $200.

I paid $186 for my cordless (tool only), and although it is definitely quite a bit weaker than 1100ft-lbs., I already have 7 batteries, whereas I do not have an air compressor. I have several cordless tools that I used when I was working as an electrician. So where you see throwing money at a problem, I saw getting a decent portable impact gun using a power source I already had ample supply of. For that I traded power and durability, the electric gun seems well built, but it seems impossible that it will be as reliable as an air gun. Haven't even had this one for a year yet, so...

and as far as the comment on upgrading to the next one, that is just my inner tool buying junkie side talking, I wish there was some kind of methadone for that, it almost seems like a hard drug addiction would be more fiscally responsible. I'm not working at the moment, so have to really keep that in check.

 

[Evadman]

I have the dewalt cordless which was about a buck without a battery, and it takes off everything I have thrown at it except one thing. It is loud as heck by the way. Even my thundergun couldn't take it off the axle nuts on my dodge ram, but a 1 inch drive IR could; though it puts out 1500 ft/lbs.

 

[mvbighead]

I have the craftsman c3. When charged, it generally takes off most lug nuts. It's no match for air though.

I tend to go for air most of the time anymore, but occasionally I'll grab the C3 for jobs where an impact isn't normally required.

 

[Wuzup101]

I have one of these Makita impact wrenches (link below), but it's a $375 tool with batteries. I got it because I wanted something that I could take away from the house to the apartment in another state or to the track. I can't fit a compressor in my trunk (with the jack, jackstands, other tools, etc...). I also already have an existing drill and impact driver that use the same batteries, so now I have 4 of them. It zips lug nuts and such off with little to no effort, and I haven't found a bolt on my car that has created a problem yet...even exhaust bolts with 100k miles on them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

As others have said, you won't match the performance of a nice air tool for the money... but with proper application of money anything is possible!

 

[LTC8K6]

http://www.ingersollrandproducts.co...ols/iqv20/w7150-1-2-20v-high-torque-impactool

780 ft-lbs of maximum forward/reverse torque & 1100 ft-lb of nut-busting torque - from cordless impact wrench that weighs only 6.8 lbs.

It's a little more than $100, but it looks like the top dog.

http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-W71...-1&keywords=ingersoll+rand+7150+impact+wrench

 

[phucheneh]

Impact wrench specs are pure BS, in case anyone was not aware of that. I use an IR2131 every day, which is rated for 600ftlbs in reserve. It's more like 200-300. When it was new. Assuming a tight-fitting socket and no extension or u-joint (every bit of extra slop robs torque).

IIRC the IR2135 (newer 'Titanium' line), while stronger, are even further overrated at 1000ftlbs.

Oh, and I'm always using more than the rated air pressure. At like 90psi or whatever the manufacturer lists the specs at...LOL, yeah freakin' right. Cut their number by a solid 75%.

I wouldn't expect the electrics to be any different in that regard.

 

[LTC8K6]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAe0ZYAOB3E

7150 vs 231C

Looks like the 7150 is relatively stronger.

 

[phucheneh]

Interesting. A good test, right there.

It should also noted that it's possible for one tool to be more successful than another even though they may, in practical use (not just what's printed on a piece of paper), generate the same amount of force per each whack of the hammer on the anvil...the electric in that like is a high frequency sucker, for sure.

I commonly hold my wrench on stuff like axle nuts and watch it keep whacking and doing nothing...then all of sudden it has officially beaten it enough, the nut gives up it's grip, and spins right off. OTOH, that electric seems to 'hit' about twice as fast, which will, yeah, get the nut moving at least twice as quickly.

A better test would be to line up a bunch of big bolts that are being held by more...like red loctite, or something that been in a nice saltwater bath. The kind bolts that never get to the 'free spin,' part...they must be impacted all the way out.

Point stands, though: don't take a 500-1000ftlb rating as a legit claim that a bolt torqued to that range will be broken loose.

http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand...ds=ir2135timax

That and a $150 compressor will meet the garage or driveway needs of anyone here. The 231, at around half the price, will do the same. But they are very loud and very heavy.

So not only do you come in at around the same price as the electric tool (or under), you also run a lot of fairly inexpensive air tools, like air hammers and grinders. As as one last thing...compressors can be repaired. Air tools can be rebuilt. Not a lot you can do for a broken electric tool unless it can be fixed/replaced under warranty.

 

[shortylickens]

Impact what?
Impact driver or impact wrench?

Cuz theres a difference.

 

[natto fire]

Impact what?
Impact driver or impact wrench?

Cuz theres a difference.

False, at least mechanically. The nomenclature is different, and one may have a 1/4" hex slot and the other a square head, but they do the same thing. Not that it matters as the OP has abandoned this thread.

... Not a lot you can do for a broken electric tool unless it can be fixed/replaced under warranty.

False, unless you buy Harbor Freight or Craftsman stuff. The "big 4" all sell parts to their cordless tools for repairing.

 

[SparkyJJO]

I have one of these Makita impact wrenches (link below), but it's a $375 tool with batteries. I got it because I wanted something that I could take away from the house to the apartment in another state or to the track. I can't fit a compressor in my trunk (with the jack, jackstands, other tools, etc...). I also already have an existing drill and impact driver that use the same batteries, so now I have 4 of them. It zips lug nuts and such off with little to no effort, and I haven't found a bolt on my car that has created a problem yet...even exhaust bolts with 100k miles on them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

As others have said, you won't match the performance of a nice air tool for the money... but with proper application of money anything is possible!

That is the one I have, and it does work really well.

Impact what?
Impact driver or impact wrench?

Cuz theres a difference.

Very true. A 1/4" hex impact driver won't do squat for lug nuts. Can't believe anyone really things a 1/4" anything would be enough

 

[railer]

Not that it matters as the OP has abandoned this thread.

Untrue! I'm just reading and enjoying the show! That 1/2" drive C3 is really looking like it will fit the bill. I've seen a couple of youtube vids of guys doing tire rotations with it, and I actually already have a c3 drill with a crappy NiCd battery that I could use to drive it. I see the bare tool C3 is only around $70, so I could step into one pretty cheap. I've been meaning to pick up a cordless weedwacker anyway, so maybe I'll just grab a Craftsman model with a Li-ion battery so I've got a couple of compatible batteries in the loop.