The title pretty much says it all. I don't really like were my temps are at right now (my E6600 is OCed to 3.025Ghz and idles at about 49-50C and is 58-59C at full load) so i would to change the fan on my AC Freezer 7 pro. Im new to comp building and overclocking and everything so I still have a lot to learn. Does anyone know of a good guide anywhere? Is the only thing I have to do is take the existing fan off and put on another 92mm fan? THanks for the help.
changing the fan on an Freezer 7 pro
- Thread starter usedqtip
- Start date
The pic on Arctic Cooling's site shows the fan covering the entire surface of the heat exchager so I don't think changing the fan will do much to improve your cooling.
This suggests the problem may be that you need to redo the application of your thermal compound. Use the thinnest possible coating of a high grade of Arctic Silver. Thermal compound is intended to fill in any gaps between the CPU heat exchanger and the surface of your heatsink. Anything more than the thinnest possible coating actually impedes the best thermal transfer.
Also, the fan speed is controllable. Have you tried setting it to stay on at max speed?
This suggests the problem may be that you need to redo the application of your thermal compound. Use the thinnest possible coating of a high grade of Arctic Silver. Thermal compound is intended to fill in any gaps between the CPU heat exchanger and the surface of your heatsink. Anything more than the thinnest possible coating actually impedes the best thermal transfer.
Also, the fan speed is controllable. Have you tried setting it to stay on at max speed?
Welcome to the AT forums.
You've nailed it on the head. Other than replacing the fan with another 92mm, you could use a 92 to 120 fan adapter and draw air thru the heatsink (trying to push air thru a restrictive adapter is an excercise in futility- the heatsink fins look and act like a wall in that scenario). I would also shroud the open sides of the heatsink fins to force the air to travel the max distance thru the fins - doing that might also increase the performance of the current fan. I'd suggest using that aluminum tape for shrouding the fins unless others can think of something better.
And as Harvey said, redoing the TIM can't hurt if you aren't getting the cooling you should (or that you expect) from it. I would use AS Ceramique instead of the Silver as it is easier to use and re-do than the silver and the performace diff is barely measureable. When you have a heatsink on a heat spreader as most CPUs use now, there are likely going to be larger gaps to fill. So using a nearly transparent layer of grease may not be the best idea as air pockets from micro to macroscopic may have to be filled unless you have lapped both surfaces flat. You can test the surfaces for flatness to see how much goop you might need.
Get some zinc oxide ointment or cheap heatsink grease > put a good layer on the surface to be tested don't want to be able to see thru it at any spot > scrape ALL the goop off that you can (being careful not to damage the surface you are testing if using a metal straight edge) with the straightest thing you have (a machinist's straight edge if you have one - an unused, flat (not warped) credit card or similar that isn't warped might do - make sure not to bend or cup the card during scraping) keeping the edge of tool as square with the surface as possible > most of a typical test surface should now be bare with some white spots remaining > those white spots are the cupped areas of the surface being tested. If there are cupped areas on either the HS or heat spreader, a semi-transparent layer of HS grease won't do - as you have to fill the cupped areas too. Clean all the test goop off with simple green or lighter fluid followed with an alcohol cleaning. Many use coffee filter material for cleaning and drying as it is lintless and found in most homes.
I like the idea of putting a good 'pork & bean' bean or large pea sized glob of goop on the center of the heat spreader on the CPU and carefully and slowly squeezing the surfaces together with slight gentle twisting - a few degrees back and forth. Not supposed to do it that way with the silver goop. Clean off any excess goop that squeezes out with a Q-tip dampened (not wet enough to drip) with distilled water - it's mainly to keep the fibers of the cotton together. You may have to clean around the edges again as the surfaces bed in.
.bh.
You've nailed it on the head. Other than replacing the fan with another 92mm, you could use a 92 to 120 fan adapter and draw air thru the heatsink (trying to push air thru a restrictive adapter is an excercise in futility- the heatsink fins look and act like a wall in that scenario). I would also shroud the open sides of the heatsink fins to force the air to travel the max distance thru the fins - doing that might also increase the performance of the current fan. I'd suggest using that aluminum tape for shrouding the fins unless others can think of something better.
And as Harvey said, redoing the TIM can't hurt if you aren't getting the cooling you should (or that you expect) from it. I would use AS Ceramique instead of the Silver as it is easier to use and re-do than the silver and the performace diff is barely measureable. When you have a heatsink on a heat spreader as most CPUs use now, there are likely going to be larger gaps to fill. So using a nearly transparent layer of grease may not be the best idea as air pockets from micro to macroscopic may have to be filled unless you have lapped both surfaces flat. You can test the surfaces for flatness to see how much goop you might need.
Get some zinc oxide ointment or cheap heatsink grease > put a good layer on the surface to be tested don't want to be able to see thru it at any spot > scrape ALL the goop off that you can (being careful not to damage the surface you are testing if using a metal straight edge) with the straightest thing you have (a machinist's straight edge if you have one - an unused, flat (not warped) credit card or similar that isn't warped might do - make sure not to bend or cup the card during scraping) keeping the edge of tool as square with the surface as possible > most of a typical test surface should now be bare with some white spots remaining > those white spots are the cupped areas of the surface being tested. If there are cupped areas on either the HS or heat spreader, a semi-transparent layer of HS grease won't do - as you have to fill the cupped areas too. Clean all the test goop off with simple green or lighter fluid followed with an alcohol cleaning. Many use coffee filter material for cleaning and drying as it is lintless and found in most homes.
I like the idea of putting a good 'pork & bean' bean or large pea sized glob of goop on the center of the heat spreader on the CPU and carefully and slowly squeezing the surfaces together with slight gentle twisting - a few degrees back and forth. Not supposed to do it that way with the silver goop. Clean off any excess goop that squeezes out with a Q-tip dampened (not wet enough to drip) with distilled water - it's mainly to keep the fibers of the cotton together. You may have to clean around the edges again as the surfaces bed in.
.bh.
I guess I should have mentioned this before but I am using AS5. I did what the instructions said - a single strip down the middle. And as far as I know I didnt use to much although i guess it is possible. but I might look into the 92mm to 120mm adaptor, or just get a new HSF even though I really dont want to.
Try checking that the pins to anchor the HSF to the motherboard are connected solidly. They can be a pain to connect.
- Sep 28, 2005
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id say more along the lines of almost impossible if the case is pre mounted inside. I hate the stupid retentions used on LGA775. Its just a straight up PITA.
I was going to suggest you LAP your cpu. Thats about the fastest solution to lowering your heat right now. Try to make the IHS as flat as possible.
Google: Lapping C2D for a guide on how to lap it.
Just to let you know the Freeze7 comes pre formed with MX-1, please tell me you wiped that off b4 applying AS5.
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