Changing starter...easy, right? Rusty nut.

[twinrider1]

1998 Durango, original starter. Ok, 7 bolts for the skid plate; and 4 nuts/bolts for the starter itself.....shouldn't be too bad.



On the starter, the nut for the battery cable has rusted to the point that it's basically round. And the cable connector has a U-shape so the bottom half of the nut is shielded by that connector.
Ok, part of me just wants to cut that cable, but I'm hoping there's a better solution? Any thoughts?

Also, the skid plate bolts screw into the frame, so there are those blind clips with the 'nut' attached. Two of those broke free so the bolt just spins.
Any thoughts on best method to cut those bolts? I cut a nut with a chisel and a hammer once, but there's less room and it was no fun anyway.


Thanks.

 

[AMCRambler]

Buy a set of these

http://compare.ebay.com/like/370664082766?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

and pick the one that is just smaller than the nut and pound it on with a hammer. Once you've pounded it all the way on, you can put a socket on it and bust it loose. The nut needs to be replaced anyway so don't worry about destroying it. They sell those extractors at sears or most auto parts stores.

If that doesn't get it, Dremel or small grinder with a carbon cut off wheel and cut it off.

 

[Zivic]

if it were mine, I would probably asses the condition of the cable and would likely just cut the end off and either replace the end, or the entire lead

 

[Ferzerp]

*Hate* stuck bolts. I had an a bolt holding an EGR valve on a duratec engine twist off once. Sure, you can drill and tap, but when the bolt is harder than the surrounding material, that doesn't work so well.

Welding a nut to the bolt, no go. Just twisted that off too.

There was *just* enough material to make a second hole in the valve and mount location and use that hole instead, but it was always a dicey repair.

 

[phucheneh]

+1 for the twisted extractor sockets. The more round it is, the more they bite. Ideally.

I've seen some sets, even tool truck brands, that kinda suck and often can't do the job. My Snap-On set (not a fanboy, it's just one tool they seem to make best) will take anything out, though. But they were like $140 bucks for a 7 or 9 piece set. Can't quite remember.

If you can get these in there:

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=b4x5UJ7WFIim8QSVo4GIAg

those work extremely well, also. I mainly use them for seized tie rods, but they'll kick a rusty nut's ass, too.

If all else fails, cut the nut with a dremel or die grinder. Only have to keep from destroying the ring terminal- if you're replacing the starter, eff the binding post.

 

[iamwiz82]

For a broken J clips or frame inserts (like your skid plate) I would just drill them out, but installing a new insert will not be fun unless there is frame access hole nearby, or is the frame not boxed?

 

[jlee]

I moved to Arizona to solve those sorts of problems. :whiste:

 

[twinrider1]

AMC, Phuceneh,
I don't think I have room to hammer those extractors home. Slick though, I think I need a set regardless.

Zivic,
Normally I try to disturb as little as possible. The more things I touch, the more chances to screw something up. But still, I'm leaning towards cutting the cable. It is 14 years old....doesn't appear to be enough slack to just put a new end on it...but it might not hurt to replace it anyway. Then, with the starter out I'd could get to that nut.

iamwiz82,
Thankfully, there are access holes. Once I cut the bolts, I'll look into replacing those clips.....or just put the skid plate in the garage and call it a day.

JLee,
Nobody likes you.
I was this close to moving to Phoenix in 2001. If I hadn't just started a family here I'd have gone.

 

[Squisher]

We're talking about the nut holding the electrical connection cable?

That nut is copper usually and pretty soft and who cares if you take the stud off too.

Get a sharp chisel and catch the nut at its perimeter to force it to turn when you hit it.

 

[BUTCH1]

Buy a set of these

http://compare.ebay.com/like/370664082766?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

and pick the one that is just smaller than the nut and pound it on with a hammer. Once you've pounded it all the way on, you can put a socket on it and bust it loose. The nut needs to be replaced anyway so don't worry about destroying it. They sell those extractors at sears or most auto parts stores.

If that doesn't get it, Dremel or small grinder with a carbon cut off wheel and cut it off.

I've never seen those before, looks like a great thing to have around the tool box..

 

[jlee]

I've never seen those before, looks like a great thing to have around the tool box..

I have a set. They are awesome.

 

[AMCRambler]

I have a set. They are awesome.

They are priceless when you round off a nut of bot. Saves you so much time drilling out the bolt and tapping it out larger. Of course if you cant get a hammer on it to pound it on then you're boned and the wont help.

 

[phucheneh]

Why can't you get an extractor on? Can you not maneuver the starter to a position where the terminal is pointing out?

...surely you're not trying to get the seized fastener off with the starter still bolted to the engine, right?

 

[twinrider1]

Why can't you get an extractor on? Can you not maneuver the starter to a position where the terminal is pointing out?

...surely you're not trying to get the seized fastener off with the starter still bolted to the engine, right?

..........awkward silence........

I owe you a cold beverage, after I get out of the shame closet.

 

[AMCRambler]

..........awkward silence........

I owe you a cold beverage, after I get out of the shame closet.

I was thinking that myself but it seemed kind of obvious. I just figured the bastard was way up in there and you didn't have enough slack in the cable. I guess sometimes the simplest solution...hehe.

Don't feel bad, we've all been there. Many a time have I spent 2 hrs doing it the hard way before the light bulb comes on that there's an easy way. That's why internet forums are great.

 

[Doppel]

1998 Durango, original starter. Ok, 7 bolts for the skid plate; and 4 nuts/bolts for the starter itself.....shouldn't be too bad.



On the starter, the nut for the battery cable has rusted to the point that it's basically round. And the cable connector has a U-shape so the bottom half of the nut is shielded by that connector.
Ok, part of me just wants to cut that cable, but I'm hoping there's a better solution? Any thoughts?

Also, the skid plate bolts screw into the frame, so there are those blind clips with the 'nut' attached. Two of those broke free so the bolt just spins.
Any thoughts on best method to cut those bolts? I cut a nut with a chisel and a hammer once, but there's less room and it was no fun anyway.


Thanks.

Hate that!

 

[Rifter]

cut cable crimp/solder on another lug and attach to new starter, problem solved.

 

[BadThad]

An old trick I use on tough bolts, spray with lube and tighten it about an 1/8 turn. Respray, wait a few minutes, then take it out. It doesn't always work, but I have about a 60% success rate.

 

[bruceb]

You can get the U-Nuts for the skid plate here (or at your Dodge dealer)

http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/...ing--Rear-Front-M10-150/6680825/06101340.html

It is M10 x 1.50 pitch