I need to change the spark plugs on my '96 honda civic coupe. Any pointers on what kind of tools to buy, which spark plugs and a walkthrough? Never done it before
Changing Sparks Plugs
- Thread starter Plasdom
- Start date
You need a ratchet and socket to fit your spark plug. Most likely a 13/16" plug socket. You might need a extension for the ratchet depending on how deep the plug it. Take one out, write down the numbers and info on it and then got to the local auto parts store. Buy the new plugs and ask what the gap should be on the plug for your car. Make sure the gap is correct(you can get a gap tool there cheap). GO home, take out one plug at a time and replace it. This way to don't have to worry about the wires getting put back on in the wrong orderer(probably not really a issue with stock wires and the such)
For more info, got to http://www.honda-tech.com
For more info, got to http://www.honda-tech.com
CrackRabbit
Lifer
- Mar 30, 2001
- 16,642
- 62
- 91
It might be a good idea to get a torque wrench, I'm pretty sure Honda's have aluminum heads and its very easy to strip them if you over torque it. Also make sure the engine is completly cool (like sitting overnight) before changing them. Make sure to add anti-seize compound to the threads and some di-eletric grease to boot and contact also.
Good luck,
CrackRabbit
Good luck,
CrackRabbit
For the 96 honda, the stock plugs are NGK ZFR5F-11. They are $1.99 each at Kragen, much more at the dealer.
You'll need a 5/8" spark plug socket, a 10" 3/8" extension bar, 3/8" ratchet and a 10-50 ft lbs torque wrench (preferably the clicker type, unless you have a very accurate twist-beam type torque bar).
Also get a spark plug gap checker. Out of the many hondas I've replaced spark plugs on, none of the NGK plugs I've used had the gap off.
Torque spec for the honda is 13 ft lbs by the honda service manual, but anything between 13 and 18 ft lbs is ok.
Anti-seize is up to you. If you replace your plugs often and like you should, (every 30k by honda service manual), then you should have no problem with removal of the plugs, and antiseize is inecessary. I replace the plugs every year, $1.99 a plug isn't too expensive where it'd be a waste. I don't use anti-seize, have never had a problem removing a plug. If you do, only apply a small amount onto the threads ONLY of the spark plug. DO NOT get any on the dielectric or the ceramic. Also, becareful to not overtorque the plug if you use antiseize. Antiseize can produce inacurrate torque readings, some manufacturers of antiseize will specify torque corrections/compensations.
You should also inspect the spark plugs wires, to make sure they are not severly cracked, arching etc. There should be a year date stamp on the wires if they are still OEM. If you need new wires, you can get them for $45-$50 for a set.
Depending on milage on the civic, might not be a bad idea to replace the distributor cap and rotor. Cap is about $10 for bosch oem equivalent, and the rotor is ~$2.50.
You'll need a 5/8" spark plug socket, a 10" 3/8" extension bar, 3/8" ratchet and a 10-50 ft lbs torque wrench (preferably the clicker type, unless you have a very accurate twist-beam type torque bar).
Also get a spark plug gap checker. Out of the many hondas I've replaced spark plugs on, none of the NGK plugs I've used had the gap off.
Torque spec for the honda is 13 ft lbs by the honda service manual, but anything between 13 and 18 ft lbs is ok.
Anti-seize is up to you. If you replace your plugs often and like you should, (every 30k by honda service manual), then you should have no problem with removal of the plugs, and antiseize is inecessary. I replace the plugs every year, $1.99 a plug isn't too expensive where it'd be a waste. I don't use anti-seize, have never had a problem removing a plug. If you do, only apply a small amount onto the threads ONLY of the spark plug. DO NOT get any on the dielectric or the ceramic. Also, becareful to not overtorque the plug if you use antiseize. Antiseize can produce inacurrate torque readings, some manufacturers of antiseize will specify torque corrections/compensations.
You should also inspect the spark plugs wires, to make sure they are not severly cracked, arching etc. There should be a year date stamp on the wires if they are still OEM. If you need new wires, you can get them for $45-$50 for a set.
Depending on milage on the civic, might not be a bad idea to replace the distributor cap and rotor. Cap is about $10 for bosch oem equivalent, and the rotor is ~$2.50.
Make sure that your plugs are GAPPPED CORRECTLY! Also, be sure to change the plugs on a STONE-COLD ENGINE to avoid crossthreading, and do not overtighten! You may want to start the plug in the well by turning it first by hand (or attached to the end of the boot) instead of using the ratchet to seat it properly in the hole. If you crossthread your plugs you have a pretty big problem.
No one mentioned this yet, but a "spark plug" socket comes with padding on the inside to keep from cracking the porcelain .. it is not just a regular socket in a spark plug size.
gently slap the hook towards where the hood release is, sometimes they just get stuck and are stubborn... (happens on my blazer all the time)
My damn van did that for years. Press down hard on the hood, then pull the release. Lube the hell out of the catch once you get it open.
my s-10 does this when you pull the handle.. just pound lightly on the hood in various spots and it will pop up for me...
Yeah, spark plug socket, a ratchet w/ extension, a spark plug gapper, (use real feeler gauges, not the crappy little sloped circular thing that doubles as a keychain), and make sure you spread some anti-sieze on. You've got a punk-ass Honda engine, so you won't have the advantage that us American car owners have where oil runs all over everything keeping it rust-free so spark plugs don't freeze in place.
The order that the plugs go back in isn't really important, but don't F- up the order of the spark plug wires, or you'll probably blow your air cleaner off when you hit the key for the first time after you've finished. Make sure the plugs are gooooood and snug, but you don't want to use 100% of your strength when you crank them back in, or you'll strip them out. A torque wrench isn't really necessary, especially if you know someone who knows what he/she's doing. Have them snug one up for you and then feel how tight it is to do the rest.
You should get the Haynes book for your engine. They usually have a sheet in there to check your plugs visually with that shows what they look like in the cases of normal wear, leaky rings, detonation, rich, lean, etc. . . Visually checking spark plugs is a REALLY good way to find out what's going on inside of there, and can help diagnose problems before they cause other problems.
Good luck.
The order that the plugs go back in isn't really important, but don't F- up the order of the spark plug wires, or you'll probably blow your air cleaner off when you hit the key for the first time after you've finished. Make sure the plugs are gooooood and snug, but you don't want to use 100% of your strength when you crank them back in, or you'll strip them out. A torque wrench isn't really necessary, especially if you know someone who knows what he/she's doing. Have them snug one up for you and then feel how tight it is to do the rest.
You should get the Haynes book for your engine. They usually have a sheet in there to check your plugs visually with that shows what they look like in the cases of normal wear, leaky rings, detonation, rich, lean, etc. . . Visually checking spark plugs is a REALLY good way to find out what's going on inside of there, and can help diagnose problems before they cause other problems.
Good luck.
hmm..I am beginning to question whether I can do this myself. The price I was given for a tune-up was > $200 and that included air filter change, fuel filter change and spark plugs. I changed the air filter a few months ago and I have taken it out before so I know how to do it. The challenge is spark plugs and fuel filter which I figure I may be able to do myself and save money since it has been mentioned that it is not to difficult. However, I will need some pictures on what to look out for since I am not familiar with some of the things mentioned in this thread. Like wires, gap etc etc
You *should* be able to do your spark plugs. I'm not sure about the fuel filter.
You might want to pick up a service manual for your car. Chilton or Haynes...
Think of the tools you need to buy as an investment. You'll always have them. Each time you use them, you will gain more of their cost back. They will eventually pay for themselves many times over.
its not tough at all, just go to auto zone, have them look up the right plugs, then ask to use their tools. I did mine in their parking lot and had them changed in about 10 mins.
The Gap of the plug is where the electrode and armature are close to each other. Its where the juice from the coil is discharged to the negativley grounded plug body. The bigger the gap the more effiecent a spark, only to a certain point though. (I run .050 on a blaster 2 coil and sh!tty champion plugs). The cars igntiion is tuned for that gap, so gap the plug ad install. It might take me 10 minutes to do my truck.
Man, this is breaking my heart to hear this. God, I hope neither of my boys throw up their hands, and give up on doing simple chores like this. They aren't too interested in do-it-yourself stuff, but I certainly hope they'll try!
I think it's tool time! Here's my favorites:
I think it's tool time! Here's my favorites:
- 3/8in. Ratchet, Flex Head
Sears item #00944815000
SAE 6 point Deep Well Sockets
Sears item #00934434000
Metric 6 point Deep Well Sockets
Sears item #00934436000
3 pc. Extension Bar Ser, Quick-Release
Sears item #00943355000
30PC HEX KEYS & TORX BONDHUS TRIPLE PACK-BALL
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