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changing brake pads....

Gibson486

Gibson486

Lifer
never did brake pads before....I always just did the stuff that does not requires jacking up the car myself.

HOw hard is this from a scales of 1-10? I mean...I have always been scared to do it because it's what make's you stop after all. Is there a huge room for error? What tools do i need? How do I tell if I need new rotors?
 
For someone that ahs done it a 1, for someone that has never worked on a car then a 10.


Get a haynes repair manual and read it. It should have pics and what is needed. If you understand what it is saying very well then go for. if not then pay someone.
 
Time, tools, etc. will likely depend on the car. Rear brakes on my MR2 take a few minutes..I haven't done brakes on many other cars, though.
 
how many miles on it...keep in mind today it's usually smarter to buy new rotors than to have the old one's turned. You can usually pick up a set for under $80 easy, sometimes under $40.

Brakes are simple, however; they are also simple to mess up and have disasterous results. Many have put the anti-squeel compound on the fiction side of the pad or even the brake lube.

Not a fun test drive.
 
Two friends and I change the pads on one of our G35s this weekend. Two of us had never done it before but all and all it only took about 6 hrs to do it. Then again is was pouring rain off and on the entire time(car was uncovered outside, bagged the rotor assemblies) and we took a dinner break for well over an hour.

I'd rate it a 3.
 
It is best to have someone there who knows how to do brakes just to check your work or help if you get stuck, but I would also rate it a 2-3. Drum brakes in particular can be tricky if you have never done them before.
 
if they are discs its a piece of cake, takes like 20minutes a wheel

take wheel off
take caliper off
take old pads out
push piston back in (unscrew brake reservoir cap)
put new pads in
put caliper back on (screw brake reservoir cap back on)
pump the brake pedal
put wheel back on
bed new pads in
 
Originally posted by: BW86
if they are discs its a piece of cake, takes like 20minutes a wheel

take wheel off
take caliper off
take old pads out
push piston back in (unscrew brake reservoir cap)
put new pads in
put caliper back on (screw unscrew brake reservoir cap back on)
pump the brake pedal
put wheel back on
bed new pads in
Click to expand...

well, you left out quite a few steps, but fast =/ thorough. No way in hell you can do all that in 20 mins and be done.

You left out deglazing your old rotor or installing new ones, regreasting caliper slide bolts, getting all your tools out, jacking up the car, cleaing up your work station, tools, and putting them away, etc.

I've done quite a few on many different cars and its at least a 45 minute job from start to finish if you have no problems.
 
with air and a lift, front brakes (even with rotors) can be done in about 15 minutes for both sides. it's not hard, but if you if you don't know what you're doing, yes you can fuck yourself badly.

to the OP, either get a service manual or have a knowledgeable friend there.

your mazda has simple brakes, but if you do the rears you will need a specialty tool to compress the caliper pistons- they must be pushed in and turned at the same time because the rear calipers contain the e-brake mechanism. fronts can be done with a standard tool available at the parts store. remember to grease the caliper slides and put some anti rattle goop on the back on the back of the pads as well as where they slide on the caliper bracket. if you get new rotors, remember to spray them down with brake clean or the oil on them will ruin your new pads. and you won't stop. and take it easy on the caliper bolts, they typically torque to maybe 25ftlbs or so, and can be fairly easily broken by hand if you don't have a feel for it.
 
Originally posted by: brblx
with air and a lift, front brakes (even with rotors) can be done in about 15 minutes for both sides. it's not hard, but if you if you don't know what you're doing, yes you can fuck yourself badly.

to the OP, either get a service manual or have a knowledgeable friend there.

your mazda has simple brakes, but if you do the rears you will need a specialty tool to compress the caliper pistons- they must be pushed in and turned at the same time because the rear calipers contain the e-brake mechanism. fronts can be done with a standard tool available at the parts store. remember to grease the caliper slides and put some anti rattle goop on the back on the back of the pads as well as where they slide on the caliper bracket. if you get new rotors, remember to spray them down with brake clean or the oil on them will ruin your new pads. and you won't stop. and take it easy on the caliper bolts, they typically torque to maybe 25ftlbs or so, and can be fairly easily broken by hand if you don't have a feel for it.
Click to expand...

My 2000 Ford Contour had rear caliper pistons that needed to be screwed in rather than compressed. It had a cross pattern on the piston that I think you were supposed to have a special tool that slotted into it. I used to use a pair of needle nose pliers. It was harder to do it with them and sometimes they'd slip and I'd pinch my finger but they worked alright.
 
I changed them (rears) on my Mazda3. No big deal at all. There are pretty detailed instructions on mazda3forums.
You can also borrow the piston pusher tool at auto zone.
 
I'd do front first, as the rears can be a pain if they're the screw in kind.If you're doing pads, rotors are literally no more extra work beyond simply pulling the rotor off (use a rubber mallet to smack it from behind if necessary, or even a metal hammer). Read the haynes and some guides on the net and you'll see that it's not terribly difficult and can save a lot of money. It's a good idea to clearn out and relube the slider pins. I would highly recommend you buy a silicone based brake grease for this. In most cases the "safe for rubber" grease that's sold at autozone/advance auto may still be carbon based and it can, despite what it says on the packet, not be suitable for slider pins (if they're the kind that have a little rubber sleeve on them).
 
just had to add, theres a surprising amount of videos on this on youtube. it doesn't replace haynes or such, but watching a few will increase your comfort level and familiarity before you try this stuff. haynes/chiltons, are sometimes pretty minimal with diagrams etc.
 
If I were you I would start out with:

1. Search for DIY for the parts being change (or videos).
2. Search for discussions on forums specific to the vehicles to learn everything possible about the task at hand.
3. Search for good place to buy the parts, probably from the same place where you found the DIY.
4. Gather tools.
5. Get beers, or alcoholic beverages of your choice.
6. Commence work.
7. ...
8. Profits?
 
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