• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Changing brake pads by myself for the first time

N

neovan

Diamond Member
I went out to Kragen and bought some tools namely some C clamps and a socket wrench. Still looking for a low profile jack so it will fit under the car.

Has anybody else change their own brake pads? What have been your experience? Easy?
 
Disasseble one side at a time just in case you screw up and need something to look at. Get a small rope to hold up the caliper out of the way. First time, hard. Next time too easy. Get a torque wrench so everything will be reassembled to spec.
 
Don't forget to take the shims from your old pads. And probably put some anti-squeaking stuff on the back of the pads. Maybe tighten a lug on the rotor when you are putting the caliper back on so that the rotor seats straight.
 
remember to pop the lid off of the brake fluid container so as to allow there to be less pressure on the calipers when you go to clamp them back in.

MIKE
 
Remove bolt. Flip up caliber. Remove old pads and shims. Clean and add grease to contact points. Grease under the clips. Apply grease to back of pads. Replace shims . Use C Clamp to push the caliber piston in (take cap off brake fluid reservoir). Install pads. Press brake a couple times.
 
Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
remember to pop the lid off of the brake fluid container so as to allow there to be less pressure on the calipers when you go to clamp them back in.

MIKE
Click to expand...

Hmm, maybe thats what I missed last time when I did my brakes. When I first started the car, there was very little pressure and the car wouldn't stop. After going into neutral and using hte parking brake the stop, I pumped it a few times and brakes worked again.

Haven't died in a year and a half. 🙂
 
Originally posted by: NutBucket
EASY! Low-Pro jack; get the all aluminum "racing" one Kragen carries. Its about as low as they get.
Click to expand...

How high does that extend? I would like to get one that can be used on my MINI or my Jeep. Its too much money to buy one of each 🙁
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Originally posted by: NutBucket
EASY! Low-Pro jack; get the all aluminum "racing" one Kragen carries. Its about as low as they get.
Click to expand...

How high does that extend? I would like to get one that can be used on my MINI or my Jeep. Its too much money to buy one of each 🙁
Click to expand...

I think about 15". I have one but I'll go check the specs.

Text That's the one I've got. The specs on the Kragen ones are identical (cause they're the same thing!)
 
BTW, Neovan, if you plan on using those tools I'd return them and head to Sears. The cost is almost the same but the tools are much better.
 
Originally posted by: NutBucket
BTW, Neovan, if you plan on using those tools I'd return them and head to Sears. The cost is almost the same but the tools are much better.
Click to expand...

what tools? the c-clamp was $2.99
 
Originally posted by: neovan
Originally posted by: Ausm
Learn how to bleed brakes or you'll be screwed 😉


Ausm
Click to expand...

Do I really need to bleed the brakes if I'm just changing the brake pads?

BTW...I'm going by this guide Brakepad guide
Click to expand...


Just changing the pads should not require bleeding them (just go slow and easy pushing the piston back in the caliper & make sure the cap is off the fluid reservoir. Since you will be pushing the pistons ALL the way back in, they will require a few pumps to extend back out to contact the pads to the rotor (in other words, the pedal will fall to the floor with ease the 1st few times - it will take a few pumps to push them back out. This can surprise you if your drive way is on a hill and you forget to do this before driving down it for the first time after a pad replacement 😉 )
 
Originally posted by: neovan
Originally posted by: NutBucket
BTW, Neovan, if you plan on using those tools I'd return them and head to Sears. The cost is almost the same but the tools are much better.
Click to expand...

what tools? the c-clamp was $2.99
Click to expand...

I think he means your wrench. If you're starting to work on your car, you need more tools anyway. I'd grab one of those small craftsman tool kits for like 50 bucks with metric and domestic measurements. Lifetime warranty and I just put my receipt in a plastic bag and taped it to the top of the tool box.

It'll come with spark plug sockets, a screwdriver and 2 sizes of wrenches.
 
Originally posted by: Kelvrick
Originally posted by: neovan
Originally posted by: NutBucket
BTW, Neovan, if you plan on using those tools I'd return them and head to Sears. The cost is almost the same but the tools are much better.
Click to expand...

what tools? the c-clamp was $2.99
Click to expand...

I think he means your wrench. If you're starting to work on your car, you need more tools anyway. I'd grab one of those small craftsman tool kits for like 50 bucks with metric and domestic measurements. Lifetime warranty and I just put my receipt in a plastic bag and taped it to the top of the tool box.

It'll come with spark plug sockets, a screwdriver and 2 sizes of wrenches.
Click to expand...

oh...i already have the other tools. i just got the c-clamp because i didn't have those and the socket wrench because i thought i lost it but found it underneath a pile of other tools.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top