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Chances this config to run on 250W psu, URGENT

G

Gomce

Senior member
Tbird 1.4 266 fsb
geforce 3
ECS K7S5A or Abit Kg7
256 ddr pc2100
30 Gb IBM 75x gxp
20 Gb Quantum AS plus
CDR Liteon 12x10x32
DVD HItachi 12x40
2x 2000rpm quiet case fans
Tv Tuner card
SB live 1024player

Untill Now this 250 W Psu is running stable the following sistem
Duron 700@1000 @1.8Vcore
geforce 3
Abit KT7 Raid
384 mb SDram
30 Gb IBM 75x gxp
20 Gb Quantum AS plus
CDR Liteon 12x10x32
DVD HItachi 12x40
2x 2000rpm quiet case fans
Tv Tuner card
SB live 1024player

I need this 250W to hold me for a week or two untill I get 350W or 330W PSU
 
the K7S5A is VERY picky about power supplies.. you could try running it and if it doesnt work, then buy a new one 🙂
 


<< Tbird 1.4 266 fsb
geforce 3
ECS K7S5A or Abit Kg7
256 ddr pc2100
30 Gb IBM 75x gxp
20 Gb Quantum AS plus
CDR Liteon 12x10x32
DVD HItachi 12x40
2x 2000rpm quiet case fans
Tv Tuner card
SB live 1024player

Untill Now this 250 W Psu is running stable the following sistem
Duron 700@1000 @1.8Vcore
geforce 3
Abit KT7 Raid
384 mb SDram
30 Gb IBM 75x gxp
20 Gb Quantum AS plus
CDR Liteon 12x10x32
DVD HItachi 12x40
2x 2000rpm quiet case fans
Tv Tuner card
SB live 1024player

I need this 250W to hold me for a week or two untill I get 350W or 330W PSU >>



If it does, that a darned good 250w psu! The 1.4 TBird puts off ~72watts of thermal power. Add 2 HDs, 2 CD-Roms, A GeForce3, A Tv-Tuner, Audio, an extra fan...

I'm not sure that a 'cheap' 350watt psu will be up to the task... For the price difference between a good 350w vs a 400w, I'd suggest going with more to be safe...
 
noname 350W psu is ~ 35$
noname 400W psu is ~120$

i cant afford 400W, I dont have money to burn,
the 250W as I said holds the config I mentioned (abit kt7 raid + duron 700@1000 + the rest of the components)

 
You lose nothing by just trying it. If it works, you're good for a couple of weeks until your new PSU comes and if it doesn't, then it doesn't. If it is the latter, you can either do without your computer for a couple of weeks, speed up the purchase of the new PSU, or borrow one. Another choice would be to disconnect one of the HDDs and/or don't burn any CDs for awhile and/or pull the sound card.
 
over-analizing the situation probably wastes more time than just doing it. The 250 would probably work fine until all your drives are going at the same time and doing 3d graphics... Try it, if you start having problems get a bigger one... its not really a big deal, i doubt it will blow up 🙂
 


<< If it does, that a darned good 250w psu! The 1.4 TBird puts off ~72watts of thermal power. Add 2 HDs, 2 CD-Roms, A GeForce3, A Tv-Tuner, Audio, an extra fan...

I'm not sure that a 'cheap' 350watt psu will be up to the task... For the price difference between a good 350w vs a 400w, I'd suggest going with more to be safe. >>



Hmm, 1.4TB about 75W, 2xHDD's about 30W (probably about 40W to get running), 2 CD-ROM ~2x15W(probably less), GF3 ~10W (?), Tv-tuner - 2-3W, Audio - ~5W, dual fans - 3W max. All that stuff should use ~170W. About 80 more watts should be enough for RAM and other components. BTW, I have ran Duron700 with lots of add-on cards, extra fans and 4 HDD's + CD-RW using 250W PSU without problems...
 


<<

<< If it does, that a darned good 250w psu! The 1.4 TBird puts off ~72watts of thermal power. Add 2 HDs, 2 CD-Roms, A GeForce3, A Tv-Tuner, Audio, an extra fan...

I'm not sure that a 'cheap' 350watt psu will be up to the task... For the price difference between a good 350w vs a 400w, I'd suggest going with more to be safe. >>



Hmm, 1.4TB about 75W, 2xHDD's about 30W (probably about 40W to get running), 2 CD-ROM ~2x15W(probably less), GF3 ~10W (?), Tv-tuner - 2-3W, Audio - ~5W, dual fans - 3W max. All that stuff should use ~170W. About 80 more watts should be enough for RAM and other components. BTW, I have ran Duron700 with lots of add-on cards, extra fans and 4 HDD's + CD-RW using 250W PSU without problems... >>



Ok, now what would be the maximum power rating on a power supply capable of continuous 200 watt output when combining only the +5 and +3.3 volt lines? That's what you need to look at...

MWave.com for their house brand 400w psu. Its $68 bucks and is made by HighPower, who also makes Enlight... Its rated at * +5V and 3.3V combined output: 242Watts max
 
Brutus: Why only count +3.3V and +5V ratings? I'm not so good in physics (I hope I will be after graduating university🙂, would you please enlighten me a little about that 🙂
 
If it helps any my friend is running a 1.4 on a KT133A chipset ECS with 256mb,1 HD,Geforce 2,2 CD-Roms and Case fan.

Hes been running it for a couple months now which no problems and played through Max Payne. All you can do is try it but I think it will run fine for a few weeks. I would take it easy on games though chances are your PSU will die while playing a high end 3D game like UT,Quake 3,Max Payne,ect.
 


<< Brutus: Why only count +3.3V and +5V ratings? I'm not so good in physics (I hope I will be after graduating university🙂, would you please enlighten me a little about that 🙂 >>



Because microprocessor-based systems (MB, CPU, RAM, CMOS, etc...) use multiple voltage sources and are usually dependent on those lower voltages sources (+5 V and +3.3 V) for the higher current. These voltages are critical to the operation of those components, therefore any noise or fluctuation in voltage on these two rails will result in undesirable performance from them. Everything on this system is digital and clock dependent. Therefore, if the voltage drops they cant simply slow down like a light bulb dims when you have a surge. The result is memory read/write errors, system reboots, and etc...

So 'switching' psu has to supply power according to where it is needed without affecting the critical current supplied on the +3.3 and +5 rails. In ATX psu forms there are 2 transformers, one transformer is used for the +12 rail while a second transformer is used for the +5 and +3.3 rails. Thus, you need to look at only one or the other and since the +3.3 and +5 rails supply ~80% of the total needed power, that is a more effective gauge of power supply capability.

Just for example:

Device__________________+12v Amps___+5v Amps____+3.3V Amps___Total Watts
Cheetah 18GB Hard Disk______ 2.9 _________ 0.9 ________ 0.0 _________ 39.3
Matrox Millennium II PCI_______0.5 _________ 5.0 ________ 7.6 _________ 56.1
Adaptec SCSI Controller_______0.5 _________ 5.0 ________ 7.6 _________ 56.1

Total _____________________ 3.9 _________10.9________ 15.2 ________151.5

But look closely at those numbers. The +12 rail supplies 3.9 amps, but the +3.3 and +5 rail supplies 26.1 amps. The wattage is 46 from the +12 rail and the +3.3 & +5 rail supplies 106 watts.

So, a 300 watt rated power supply which has the ability to supply 150 watts on the +12, and 150 watts on the +3.3 and +5 rail isn't the same as a 300w which has those power values split in a different proportion.

BTW, the rating for -voltages is worthless... they aren't used anymore.

HTH,
Brutus


 
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