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Catalytic converter replacement.

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KK

Lifer
I hope this is the right forum for it, it was either this or cases and cooling. Anyways, got this 2001 Windstar, started making a rattling noises when revved up to around 2k rpm. Was hoping it wasn't the tranny, got up under it and found the rattling to be coming from the catalytic converter. So, my question is, what now, do I go buy one from the web, they seem to run 65 -80 dollars online and take it somewhere to get put on. Or just buy it from the place that would put it on. What could I expect cost wise for them to stick it on. seems like it'd be a simple weld job.

Also they have something called a direct fit, that runs around 300, that includes 2 cat converters and all the piping up front and all that would need to be done would be to take the whole assembly off and a new one put in its place. A total of 7-10 bolts. buying this would cost more, and replace both converters, and would be something I could probably do myself.

So with 150k+ on the vehicle, what would the best way to attack this be?
 
What kind of rattle is it? If it's a metallic sounding rattle it's the heat shield around the unit which has come lose. If it sounds like rocks bouncing around a clay pot it's the unit itself and should be replaced.
 
Bah, my Accord had a cracked/rattling cat and it still functioned fine.

The question is, does state/federal law allow aftermarket replacements? I forget what they are but you should check. Aside from that, there's no good reason to not go aftermarket.

And if you live in a salt state good luck unbolting anything under the car after 8-9 years.
 
What kind of rattle is it? If it's a metallic sounding rattle it's the heat shield around the unit which has come lose. If it sounds like rocks bouncing around a clay pot it's the unit itself and should be replaced.

I don't believe its the heatshield as it seems to be on there good, as I couldn't stop or alter the rattling while underneath holding it.

As for the aftermarket legality, my view is what they don't know can't hurt them. No salt down here in GA, but we have made trips to PA atleast once a year during the winter, but from being underneath it looks pretty clean rust wise.
 
Check prices at your local muffler shops. You may be able to undo the stuck bolts yourself and bolt in a direct fit assembly, but how are you going to check for leaks that all your wrenching, tugging, and hammering may have done? Buy a gas sniffer like the muffler shop has? At least if the shop leaves a tiny leak, they can find it (if you ask them to check).
 
What kind of rattle is it? If it's a metallic sounding rattle it's the heat shield around the unit which has come lose. If it sounds like rocks bouncing around a clay pot it's the unit itself and should be replaced.

OMG you may have figured out what the noise is on my car! To me it sounds closer to where all the belts are, but I couldn't figure out how a pulley or something driven off a belt would make such a random pinging/rock bouncing type noise.
 
Check prices at your local muffler shops. You may be able to undo the stuck bolts yourself and bolt in a direct fit assembly, but how are you going to check for leaks that all your wrenching, tugging, and hammering may have done? Buy a gas sniffer like the muffler shop has? At least if the shop leaves a tiny leak, they can find it (if you ask them to check).
Sheesh. Not like exhaust leaks are deadly. Just a bit smelly.

And like said as far as legality, it completely depends on how thorough of an inspection process your state has (if any).
 
get back under there and tap the cat with a hammer. move down the exhaust system until what you hit makes a rattle sound. replace the offending item.

fin.
 
OMG you may have figured out what the noise is on my car! To me it sounds closer to where all the belts are, but I couldn't figure out how a pulley or something driven off a belt would make such a random pinging/rock bouncing type noise.

🙂
 
As a tip, I found that Adv Auto had a comparable price on universal cats to online and I didn't have to wait/pay for shipping.

If you're going to keep the vehicle for another few years, it may be worth it to buy the direct fit replacement and be 100&#37; set with new parts. Otherwise, I would just replace the one. Having it welded in will likely run <$50.
 
If you're going to keep the vehicle for another few years, it may be worth it to buy the direct fit replacement and be 100&#37; set with new parts. Otherwise, I would just replace the one. Having it welded in will likely run <$50.

I'm thinking along those lines too, we will have it for a bit while longer. No reason to get rid of it. I did call around today, one place wanted over 500 to replace, the other place wanted 200. That was for both of them. the 200 price was cheaper than I can locate a direct fit replacement.
 
Ask them what parts they are using for $200 versus the $500. $300 doesn't just appear out of nowhere.
yeah, they may be welding in two cat converter in as opposed to using a direct fit which the 500 place may be using. I'll have to call them next monday to see.
 
If you can pull it off, see if you can just stick a shop vac in there and get all the loose bits out.
 
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