Cat 6 stranded or solid?

Compman55

Golden Member
Feb 14, 2010
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Wiring my house and using a patch panel in the basement. But I am not using wall outlets, I am just drilling thru the floor and leaving them coil up on the carpet. I will then plug it right to the PC;s and printers.

Do I want solid or stranded cat 6?
 

Arcanedeath

Platinum Member
Jan 29, 2000
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You want solid for inwall / through floor installs, stranded should only be used for patch cables.
 

RadiclDreamer

Diamond Member
Aug 8, 2004
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You use solid for punchdown connections, you use stranded for crimping ends on. If you crimp on solid you will get a terrible connection and the pins get very bent on the inside.
 

Compman55

Golden Member
Feb 14, 2010
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So how do I do both? I am punching into a patch panel, then crimping an end on the other. So I will use punchdown tool on patch panel and a hand crimper in the bedroom for example. So does this mean I need to buy a special keystone end piece that gets punched as well then use a patch cable?
 

skyking

Lifer
Nov 21, 2001
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don't crimp, it is not the way the wire was designed to be used. Get keystone jacks for the remote location, and either put them in a wall plate or in a surface mount box.
Use a patch panel for the last connection.
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10513&cs_id=1051309&p_id=5384&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10517&cs_id=1051703&p_id=6725&seq=1&format=2

Or

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10517&cs_id=1051705&p_id=7082&seq=1&format=2

Patch cables are a buck for a 3' , so $2 per run to do it right. no need for a crimp tool.
 

RadiclDreamer

Diamond Member
Aug 8, 2004
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So how do I do both? I am punching into a patch panel, then crimping an end on the other. So I will use punchdown tool on patch panel and a hand crimper in the bedroom for example. So does this mean I need to buy a special keystone end piece that gets punched as well then use a patch cable?

The best thing to do is punch down the long haul and then use a factory manufactured cable to plug into the keystone jack and then to your device. While you can crimp, many frown upon it because they dont tend to last or be of as good of quality as a factory created one.
 

RadiclDreamer

Diamond Member
Aug 8, 2004
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CAT6a @ 500mhz will allow you to hit 10gbps, so if you think that might be something you want in the future, that would be best, otherwise basic CAT6 is fine.
 

Emulex

Diamond Member
Jan 28, 2001
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Might want to considered shield wire with anti-fire characteristics to prevent a (fire!)
 

azazel1024

Senior member
Jan 6, 2014
901
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You use solid for punchdown connections, you use stranded for crimping ends on. If you crimp on solid you will get a terrible connection and the pins get very bent on the inside.

Only if you do a losy job of it. I've had no issues crimping on solid if done properly. That said, punch down is the proper way to do that.

To the OP, stranded would be the proper way to go. Actually, the proper way to do it is take the few extra minutes and install wall boxes with keystone jacks and RJ45 punch downs. The cost is minimal (about $10 per box with a single RJ45 keystone) and the time is minimal (maybe 2-4 minutes more than crimping a connector) and both visually and functionally MASSIVE improvement over just pulling cables through the walls.

Stranded will work fine to a few dozen meters. Note though, the specification is for 90 meters of solid conductor + 10 meters of stranded patch cable (5+5) on either end when you look at Ethernet's generall "100 meter" maximum length. Stranded only, figure 50-60 meters tops is what you might want to run.
 

azazel1024

Senior member
Jan 6, 2014
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Might want to considered shield wire with anti-fire characteristics to prevent a (fire!)

Massive overkill. It isn't "anti-fire", what you are speaking of is plenum rated wiring, which must be used if run through your HVAC duct work. The only difference is that the plastic jacketing is designed to not produce toxic gases (which PVC DOES produce) when burned. It doesn't tolerate fire any better than regular PVC jacketing does. IE combustion points are roughly comparable.

Shielding is overkill in 99.99% of installations. Pretty much only for very high EMI environments.
 

imagoon

Diamond Member
Feb 19, 2003
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So how do I do both? I am punching into a patch panel, then crimping an end on the other. So I will use punchdown tool on patch panel and a hand crimper in the bedroom for example. So does this mean I need to buy a special keystone end piece that gets punched as well then use a patch cable?

You punch on to a keystone. You don't need to buy an RJ45 crimper. Don't waste the money to do a substandard job.

Solid in wall to the patch panel and keystone using a 110 punch. Buy patch cables for the rest.

switch <- purchased patch cable -> <- patch panel -> <- Solid Ethernet cable in wall -> <-keystone-> <-purchased patch cable-> Device
 
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RadiclDreamer

Diamond Member
Aug 8, 2004
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Massive overkill. It isn't "anti-fire", what you are speaking of is plenum rated wiring, which must be used if run through your HVAC duct work. The only difference is that the plastic jacketing is designed to not produce toxic gases (which PVC DOES produce) when burned. It doesn't tolerate fire any better than regular PVC jacketing does. IE combustion points are roughly comparable.

Shielding is overkill in 99.99% of installations. Pretty much only for very high EMI environments.

And shielding done wrong creates a massive antenna for more interference
 

RadiclDreamer

Diamond Member
Aug 8, 2004
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Only if you do a losy job of it. I've had no issues crimping on solid if done properly. That said, punch down is the proper way to do that.

To the OP, stranded would be the proper way to go. Actually, the proper way to do it is take the few extra minutes and install wall boxes with keystone jacks and RJ45 punch downs. The cost is minimal (about $10 per box with a single RJ45 keystone) and the time is minimal (maybe 2-4 minutes more than crimping a connector) and both visually and functionally MASSIVE improvement over just pulling cables through the walls.

Stranded will work fine to a few dozen meters. Note though, the specification is for 90 meters of solid conductor + 10 meters of stranded patch cable (5+5) on either end when you look at Ethernet's generall "100 meter" maximum length. Stranded only, figure 50-60 meters tops is what you might want to run.


I'm sorry, but this is flat wrong, you should not be using solid core cable to crimp ends on. Sure you can make it work, and most of the time it will work ok, but when you need to make sure it works for the long haul you need to be sure to use stranded for crimps.
 

Red Squirrel

No Lifer
May 24, 2003
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Install proper jacks and a patch panel, it may sound like a bit more work now but it will save you aggravation later and make moving stuff around easier and cleaner. It's not really any more work since you have to terminate it either way... with patch and jacks all you need to do extra is use patch cables. You can either make or buy them. Personally I just buy from Monoprice as with their prices it's not even worth the time to make them.
 

azazel1024

Senior member
Jan 6, 2014
901
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I'm sorry, but this is flat wrong, you should not be using solid core cable to crimp ends on. Sure you can make it work, and most of the time it will work ok, but when you need to make sure it works for the long haul you need to be sure to use stranded for crimps.

On your prior, yes, shielding done wrong can cause problems, so I avoid it at all costs, unless it MUST be done. Most Cat6a each wire pair is shielded, so you have to work with shielded wiring in that case. The shielding is just a pain to handle. It isn't impossible, but it is a pain.

On solid for crimp ends, yes, it "shouldn't be done", but it certainly can be and it can work just fine if you ensure you do a good crimp.

The issue isn't a crimp on solid versus stranded, it is that you should NOT be using solid for patch cables, period. It can be done (I do it, because I have LOTS of solid core cabling, and when I need a specific length cable quick...), but the issue is that solid core is much less forgiving of turn radius/cable crushing as well as it'll fatigue and break much sooner than stranded will. It is also less flexible.

So, solid core CAN be used for patch cabling, which means crimped ends, but I'd avoid it in most cases. That said, you aren't often mechanically working a patch cable often, as it just sits there behind your equipment. I'd never use one for a laptop or other portable device that I was often plugging and unplugging, etc.

That said, if you need a cable, unless you need it right away, just buying a patch cable, or buying a bunch of patch cables in bulk is the way to go. Fool proof, huge time saver and not a lot more than buying the cabling and connectors in bulk and making your own cables.