Hey, I've recently painted my case and am still looking for inspiration (not to mention a 1337 case). Anyway, just wanted to give you guys a chance to show off your mods! Post some graphics here. I can't wait to see what creative stuff you guys have come up with.
Case Paintjobs
- Thread starter Trident1
- Start date
sygyzy
Lifer
- Oct 21, 2000
- 14,001
- 4
- 76
Since you two know about case painting, I had a few questions.
1) Does metalic paint on a case look shiny like metal? I wouldn't think so since the layer you are paiting on is beige and not very shiny. I want my case to be reflective though.
2) Do you have to sand it down? Why? What type of grit? How often? How much?
3) Do you have to use a primer? How many layers? Do you have to put a clearcoat over it?
4) How many layers of paint? What kind of paint?
1) Does metalic paint on a case look shiny like metal? I wouldn't think so since the layer you are paiting on is beige and not very shiny. I want my case to be reflective though.
2) Do you have to sand it down? Why? What type of grit? How often? How much?
3) Do you have to use a primer? How many layers? Do you have to put a clearcoat over it?
4) How many layers of paint? What kind of paint?
1. no, metallic paints usually have "flecks" in them, kind of like glitter
2. Yes you should sand it, how much is a debate. Some will tell you down to the bare metal, some will say, just enough to get rid of the origianl texture. I prefer the later.
3. I don't use primer, but you probably should if you sand it down to the metal.
4. Usually three thin even layers of paint are enough. You want to do thin layers, so you don't get any drips. Yes you should use a clearcoat. It will make the case shine more, and not scratch as easy. I like to use Rustoleum "Metallic" paints.
Good Luck!
2. Yes you should sand it, how much is a debate. Some will tell you down to the bare metal, some will say, just enough to get rid of the origianl texture. I prefer the later.
3. I don't use primer, but you probably should if you sand it down to the metal.
4. Usually three thin even layers of paint are enough. You want to do thin layers, so you don't get any drips. Yes you should use a clearcoat. It will make the case shine more, and not scratch as easy. I like to use Rustoleum "Metallic" paints.
Good Luck!
Here are some pics on my machine i did last summer. pardon some of the pics. i know some of them are not very focused. you will also notice some chips and scratches. this is because i did some more modding to the case after i painted it, which is not a good idea. do all your cutting/modding BEFORE you paint it.
i sanded my just a bit to rough up the paint. i used a quick once over with 1200 grit (600 will work too, just dont rub too hard). you want a slighty rough surface so the primer will stick.
and yes, use primer. it gives you a nice neutral base for the paint to go on. i used about 3 thin coats of primer before i put the paint on. then i used about 9 thin coats of paint, and topped that off with 3 coats of a high gloss coat. the trick is to use light, thin coats. this will let the primer/paint dry faster. that is another thing. you MUST let the primer/paint FULLY dry and cure before you put the next coat on. follow the directions on the back on the spray can. if you dont let the previous coat dry and slap on another, the bottom coats will never fully dry and cure. then you will have the problem of when you scratch your case, the paint will peel right off. the paint will chip if you are rough with it, like anything else you paint.
i am experimenting with some powder coating and Color Fusion techniques to get a more durable finish. ill post them as soon as i get some of my test parts back.
sparkle: seems like the 'ol Rustoleum Cobalt Blue has become pretty popular
i sanded my just a bit to rough up the paint. i used a quick once over with 1200 grit (600 will work too, just dont rub too hard). you want a slighty rough surface so the primer will stick.
and yes, use primer. it gives you a nice neutral base for the paint to go on. i used about 3 thin coats of primer before i put the paint on. then i used about 9 thin coats of paint, and topped that off with 3 coats of a high gloss coat. the trick is to use light, thin coats. this will let the primer/paint dry faster. that is another thing. you MUST let the primer/paint FULLY dry and cure before you put the next coat on. follow the directions on the back on the spray can. if you dont let the previous coat dry and slap on another, the bottom coats will never fully dry and cure. then you will have the problem of when you scratch your case, the paint will peel right off. the paint will chip if you are rough with it, like anything else you paint.
i am experimenting with some powder coating and Color Fusion techniques to get a more durable finish. ill post them as soon as i get some of my test parts back.
sparkle: seems like the 'ol Rustoleum Cobalt Blue has become pretty popular
If you use primer, it can also work as a second color of paint! (or third) For my case, I decided to go with a Red/Black combination, and as I thought about what sort of design I wanted, I ended up using the grey primer as a stripe. Looks very cool. The biggest problem I had in doing this though, was having a "ridge" between different colors of paint. I'ts not too noticeable however, and you can hardly even feel it.
My method was similiar to everyone elses. Sand to remove the "texture", primer, 3 layers of paint and then clear coat (3-4 layers). Took 4 days in total, leaving 1 hour between each coat, and 1 day between each new layer. Day 1 primer, Day 2 Red, Day 3 Black, Day 4 Primer. (always do the lighter color first, you can't paint the black stuff red as easy as the red stuff balck, if you make a mistake"
A little sanding in between! I was worried at first that sanding once with high grit sandpaper before clearcoat would mess it up, I only did it on one side to see, but it turned up being a nicer finish than the other side, so I recommend to do one light sanding with high grit (600+) sandpaper before clear coat, but not between clear coats!!
I would post pics, but the disk with my good ones is dead, so I'll have to take some new ones.
My method was similiar to everyone elses. Sand to remove the "texture", primer, 3 layers of paint and then clear coat (3-4 layers). Took 4 days in total, leaving 1 hour between each coat, and 1 day between each new layer. Day 1 primer, Day 2 Red, Day 3 Black, Day 4 Primer. (always do the lighter color first, you can't paint the black stuff red as easy as the red stuff balck, if you make a mistake"
A little sanding in between! I was worried at first that sanding once with high grit sandpaper before clearcoat would mess it up, I only did it on one side to see, but it turned up being a nicer finish than the other side, so I recommend to do one light sanding with high grit (600+) sandpaper before clear coat, but not between clear coats!!
I would post pics, but the disk with my good ones is dead, so I'll have to take some new ones.
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