*** READ THROUGH THE ENTIRE DOCUMENT BEFORE DOING ANY WORK ***
*** DO ALL WORK IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA ***
*** WEAR THE PROPER SAFETY EQUIPMENT ***
_Step 1: Dismantle the case
Remove all the side panels, the front bevel, all the wiring, buttons, drive cages, fan housings, power supply, hard drives, floppy drives, CD-ROMs/RWs, everything. A completely bare case is a must. Then, separate the parts that are to be painted into metal and plastic piles.
If you can take apart the front bezel, do so. The buttons can get stuck when you paint.
_Step 2: Acquiring materials
List of supplies
Wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper, grits 200/220, 320/360, 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000
PPG/DuPont epoxy primer (whatever is compatible)
PPG/DuPont acrylic urethane base/clear coat ? enough for 3 coats of everything with each type
Flex additive ? allows primer/paint to bend with plastic, so it doesn?t chip off
Stirring sticks, strainers, extra cans, tack cloths, white rags, rubber squeegee, plastic buckets
Lacquer thinner and aluminum trays for cleanup
Dawn liquid detergent
Zaino Bros? Z-7 Show Car Wash
Zaino Bros? Z-18 ClayBar
Fine rubbing compound
Fine polishing compound
Zaino Bros? ZFX Flash Cure Accelerator Additive
Zaino Bros? Z-2 Show Car Polish for Clear Coated Finishes
Zaino Bros? Z-5 Polish for Swirl Marks & Fine Scratches
Zaino Bros? Z-6 Ultra Clean ?Gloss Enhancer? Spray
List of equipment
Air compressor (a 5HP Sears does the job quite well)
HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) paint guns /w strainers ? primer uses separate gun
Oil and water extractor (place at least 25? from compressor) ? keeps the air clean
Air hose
OSHA-approved air mask
*Step 3: Sanding the case down
All the pieces should be separated. Fill a small-to-medium bucket with water and some Dawn detergent. Wash all parts and wipe dry with clean towels. Wrap 200/220 grit wet/dry around the rubber squeegee. If your case has a nice finish, use 320/360 grit. Wet all parts and lightly sand all the metal panels and the front bezel. If the buttons are to be sanded, sand those as well.
Wash all the parts again with the soap. Rinse thoroughly and wipe dry with tack cloths. Air dry for assurance. Dump the bucket of its contents, rinse the inside, dump, fill with new soap solution.
*Step 4: Applying the primer
Wear mask. Mix up the primer according to the manufacturer and pour it into the spray gun. Make sure a paint strainer is used! Adjust the pressure on the gun according to the directions on the can. Practice spraying on a piece of cardboard, using a 12? spray pattern and 1/2 overlap (overlapping each pass by 1/2). Do not start the run on the object being painted (start from the side) and spray parallel to the surface.
Wipe surfaces with tack cloth before spraying. Spray on the METAL parts ONLY. 2-3 full wet coats will be enough.
Add the flex additive to the paint, according to the directions. This allows the paint to flex with the plastic without cracking/chipping.
Practice doing it on cardboard again. Spray with previous technique.
*Step 5: Sanding the primer
Wrap 400/600 grit wet/dry around the squeegee. Read the directions on the primer. Use whatever grit it specifies. Rinse the primed parts and sand until the surfaces are perfectly flat (except for pieces that aren?t supposed to be). If you want to sand it perfectly, sand horizontally, vertically and diagonally. If not, just sand in a single direction. Don?t use the squeegee for non-flat parts. Wash the sanded parts with the soap. Rinse with clean water and use the Z-18 ClayBar according to directions ? make sure the surface is always lubricated with water when wiping with ClayBar. Dump the bucket of soap and do the same as before.
Air dry completely.
*Step 6: Applying the base coat
If at any time you don?t like the look of the primer, re-sand with the directions above. Paint magnifies mistakes, not hides them. Mix the paint according to the manufacturer?s directions, pour it into the spray gun using the strainer and set the pressure. Practice on the cardboard again, using the same technique as with the primer.
Wipe down the parts with tack cloths, each as you spray them. Spray the larger METAL pieces first, and with the smaller pieces use an 8-10? spray pattern. Apply 3 full coats of color. For the plastic, do the same as with the primer and use flex additive. 3 coats, again.
Dry according to the directions, then sand with the previous methods, this time with 600 grit. Wash and rinse, dump the bucket as usual. Use the ClayBar on the surfaces, again making sure that the surfaces are completely wet. Air dry completely.
*Step 7: Applying the clear coat
Use the same technique as the base coat. Apply 3 full coats, and let this dry for 48 hours, but no longer.
*Step 8: Sanding the clear coat
Wrap a piece of 1000 or 1200 grit wet/dry around the squeegee. Lightly sand the flat metal parts in one direction, making sure you don?t sand through to the color. The paint must look perfectly applied. Sand all the pieces, but don?t use the squeegee for the non-flat surfaces. Repeat the process with 1500 grit, and then 2000 grit. After you switch grits, wash and dry, dump bucket. Trust me, you want totally clean water. Check the paint for orange peel, runs, unflatness, roughness, etc. If there?s anything unsatisfactory, sand with 2000 grit. Wash, rinse, ClayBar, dump. Air dry completely.
*Step 9: Rubbing in the shine
Get the rubbing compound and lots of WHITE Turkish towels with no fancy designs. Cut the towels into the pieces small enough to manage, and cut out all the seams/designs/extra crap.
Apply the compound according to manufacturer?s directions (usually with a circular motion), until the surfaces look like mirrors. Now do the same with the polishing compound. If at any time there are swirl marks, use Z-5 swirl remover as per directions.
*Step 10: Detailing the parts
Rinse all the parts and ClayBar. Wipe with tack cloths after drying. Use the ZFX accelerator as per directions on all parts. Apply the Z-2 as per directions on all parts. Let the Z-2 dry for at least an hour, longer if temperature is below room temp. If humidity is high, drying time will also lengthen dramatically. To check if the polish is ready, wipe your (clean!) finger across a hazed section. If it smears, it?s still wet. If it leaves a crystal clear finish, it?s done. Use large WHITE cotton bath towels to remove the polish, turning frequently. If there are any swirl marks, use Z-5 as per directions.
If you want an even better finish, use the Z-6 as per directions. Follow up with another coat of Z-2, with above technique. Keep doing this until you?re satisfied. Assemble all parts and enjoy.
- built my first, ArsTechnica
[edited by me, mostly for readability]
*** DO ALL WORK IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA ***
*** WEAR THE PROPER SAFETY EQUIPMENT ***
_Step 1: Dismantle the case
Remove all the side panels, the front bevel, all the wiring, buttons, drive cages, fan housings, power supply, hard drives, floppy drives, CD-ROMs/RWs, everything. A completely bare case is a must. Then, separate the parts that are to be painted into metal and plastic piles.
If you can take apart the front bezel, do so. The buttons can get stuck when you paint.
_Step 2: Acquiring materials
List of supplies
Wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper, grits 200/220, 320/360, 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000
PPG/DuPont epoxy primer (whatever is compatible)
PPG/DuPont acrylic urethane base/clear coat ? enough for 3 coats of everything with each type
Flex additive ? allows primer/paint to bend with plastic, so it doesn?t chip off
Stirring sticks, strainers, extra cans, tack cloths, white rags, rubber squeegee, plastic buckets
Lacquer thinner and aluminum trays for cleanup
Dawn liquid detergent
Zaino Bros? Z-7 Show Car Wash
Zaino Bros? Z-18 ClayBar
Fine rubbing compound
Fine polishing compound
Zaino Bros? ZFX Flash Cure Accelerator Additive
Zaino Bros? Z-2 Show Car Polish for Clear Coated Finishes
Zaino Bros? Z-5 Polish for Swirl Marks & Fine Scratches
Zaino Bros? Z-6 Ultra Clean ?Gloss Enhancer? Spray
List of equipment
Air compressor (a 5HP Sears does the job quite well)
HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) paint guns /w strainers ? primer uses separate gun
Oil and water extractor (place at least 25? from compressor) ? keeps the air clean
Air hose
OSHA-approved air mask
*Step 3: Sanding the case down
All the pieces should be separated. Fill a small-to-medium bucket with water and some Dawn detergent. Wash all parts and wipe dry with clean towels. Wrap 200/220 grit wet/dry around the rubber squeegee. If your case has a nice finish, use 320/360 grit. Wet all parts and lightly sand all the metal panels and the front bezel. If the buttons are to be sanded, sand those as well.
Wash all the parts again with the soap. Rinse thoroughly and wipe dry with tack cloths. Air dry for assurance. Dump the bucket of its contents, rinse the inside, dump, fill with new soap solution.
*Step 4: Applying the primer
Wear mask. Mix up the primer according to the manufacturer and pour it into the spray gun. Make sure a paint strainer is used! Adjust the pressure on the gun according to the directions on the can. Practice spraying on a piece of cardboard, using a 12? spray pattern and 1/2 overlap (overlapping each pass by 1/2). Do not start the run on the object being painted (start from the side) and spray parallel to the surface.
Wipe surfaces with tack cloth before spraying. Spray on the METAL parts ONLY. 2-3 full wet coats will be enough.
Add the flex additive to the paint, according to the directions. This allows the paint to flex with the plastic without cracking/chipping.
Practice doing it on cardboard again. Spray with previous technique.
*Step 5: Sanding the primer
Wrap 400/600 grit wet/dry around the squeegee. Read the directions on the primer. Use whatever grit it specifies. Rinse the primed parts and sand until the surfaces are perfectly flat (except for pieces that aren?t supposed to be). If you want to sand it perfectly, sand horizontally, vertically and diagonally. If not, just sand in a single direction. Don?t use the squeegee for non-flat parts. Wash the sanded parts with the soap. Rinse with clean water and use the Z-18 ClayBar according to directions ? make sure the surface is always lubricated with water when wiping with ClayBar. Dump the bucket of soap and do the same as before.
Air dry completely.
*Step 6: Applying the base coat
If at any time you don?t like the look of the primer, re-sand with the directions above. Paint magnifies mistakes, not hides them. Mix the paint according to the manufacturer?s directions, pour it into the spray gun using the strainer and set the pressure. Practice on the cardboard again, using the same technique as with the primer.
Wipe down the parts with tack cloths, each as you spray them. Spray the larger METAL pieces first, and with the smaller pieces use an 8-10? spray pattern. Apply 3 full coats of color. For the plastic, do the same as with the primer and use flex additive. 3 coats, again.
Dry according to the directions, then sand with the previous methods, this time with 600 grit. Wash and rinse, dump the bucket as usual. Use the ClayBar on the surfaces, again making sure that the surfaces are completely wet. Air dry completely.
*Step 7: Applying the clear coat
Use the same technique as the base coat. Apply 3 full coats, and let this dry for 48 hours, but no longer.
*Step 8: Sanding the clear coat
Wrap a piece of 1000 or 1200 grit wet/dry around the squeegee. Lightly sand the flat metal parts in one direction, making sure you don?t sand through to the color. The paint must look perfectly applied. Sand all the pieces, but don?t use the squeegee for the non-flat surfaces. Repeat the process with 1500 grit, and then 2000 grit. After you switch grits, wash and dry, dump bucket. Trust me, you want totally clean water. Check the paint for orange peel, runs, unflatness, roughness, etc. If there?s anything unsatisfactory, sand with 2000 grit. Wash, rinse, ClayBar, dump. Air dry completely.
*Step 9: Rubbing in the shine
Get the rubbing compound and lots of WHITE Turkish towels with no fancy designs. Cut the towels into the pieces small enough to manage, and cut out all the seams/designs/extra crap.
Apply the compound according to manufacturer?s directions (usually with a circular motion), until the surfaces look like mirrors. Now do the same with the polishing compound. If at any time there are swirl marks, use Z-5 swirl remover as per directions.
*Step 10: Detailing the parts
Rinse all the parts and ClayBar. Wipe with tack cloths after drying. Use the ZFX accelerator as per directions on all parts. Apply the Z-2 as per directions on all parts. Let the Z-2 dry for at least an hour, longer if temperature is below room temp. If humidity is high, drying time will also lengthen dramatically. To check if the polish is ready, wipe your (clean!) finger across a hazed section. If it smears, it?s still wet. If it leaves a crystal clear finish, it?s done. Use large WHITE cotton bath towels to remove the polish, turning frequently. If there are any swirl marks, use Z-5 as per directions.
If you want an even better finish, use the Z-6 as per directions. Follow up with another coat of Z-2, with above technique. Keep doing this until you?re satisfied. Assemble all parts and enjoy.
- built my first, ArsTechnica
[edited by me, mostly for readability]
