Case Mod

MagnusTheBrewer

IN MEMORIAM
Jun 19, 2004
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I don't think that's going to work unless you're going for the post apocalyptic zombie look. But hey, this is your chance to buy new toys!
 

midnite8

Junior Member
Nov 14, 2008
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Would you recommend a dremel or a jigsaw? Or a dremel with a saw attachment like this
r20044v15.jpg
 
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dma0991

Platinum Member
Mar 17, 2011
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Get a normal dremel with a disc cutting wheel. Reciprocating saw is less suitable for precision work and you'll have to do more edge sanding to achieve the result that you want.
 

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
16,627
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Get a normal dremel with a disc cutting wheel. Reciprocating saw is less suitable for precision work and you'll have to do more edge sanding to achieve the result that you want.

Ditto! Abso-tively, Posi-lutely! You can get your basic Dremel kit at HD for a little over $50 as I recall. Either HD or Harbor Freight sells a similar tool for less than $20. You'd want to get a package of the abrasive cutting wheels -- they wear down with use. There is a metal "saw" wheel for use only with plastics or wood, but that also can come in handy for a case mod.

It takes time, patience and experience to cut a 120mm fan-hole with the Dremel, but I'd think the job might look a bit neater than with anything like a reciprocating saw. Some mod-veterans recommend 3" and 4" diameter hole saws used with a drill for this purpose. It's also nice to keep an assortment of files handy to eliminate sharp or rough edges.

There's also another interesting little tool available for about $9 or $10 that looks like an office hole punch or pair of pliers -- the so-called "nibbler." Very useful.

DO NOT MOD YOUR CASE WITHOUT FIRST REMOVING ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS! And make sure you clean out the filings thoroughly before re-installing your parts. If you can -- blast it with a garden hose.

It IS possible to drill a hole here or there without this precaution, but I've done it by covering the components in plastic drop-cloth and covering the exit-hole area with tape so the tape isn't penetrated by the drill-bit. The inside of the tape should provide a sticky surface to catch filings, or squeezing the tape flat as you remove it should capture any tailings left by the drill. This is one of those "afterthought" short-cuts I've used in a hurry, and I don't recommend it.