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Car Won't Start

Aikouka

Aikouka

Lifer
2007 Nissan Altima 3.5SL

I went to start my car this afternoon; I pushed the brake pedal down, pushed the button and all I heard were a bunch of clicks from the starter. The lights in the car would flicker a bit like they normally do when it's turning over.

I have roadside assistance with my car's warranty, and they sent someone out to see if it's the battery. Well, the car still wouldn't start when attempting to jump it (I didn't expect it to work).

Any thoughts on what I could be looking at?

Note that my brake switch has been replaced once already.
 
Clicking is normally a low / failing battery (assuming you're hearing a rapid tiktiktiktiktiktiktik sound?). Next step would be the starter itself. Has the battery ever been replaced?
 
It sounds to me like the cell of the battery is completely dead. Unlike a normal dead battery, it can't be jumped off. I sense a new battery in your future.
 
jlee said:
Clicking is normally a low / failing battery (assuming you're hearing a rapid tiktiktiktiktiktiktik sound?).
Click to expand...

Yep. That's what I'm hearing. I'd record a video, but I don't want to keep attempting to start it as that would flood the engine, right?

jlee said:
Next step would be the starter itself. Has the battery ever been replaced?
Click to expand...

Nope, the battery is the original.

ProchargeMe said:
It sounds to me like the cell of the battery is completely dead. Unlike a normal dead battery, it can't be jumped off. I sense a new battery in your future.
Click to expand...

Hmm I've never dealt with a dead battery in the past, so I don't know too much about "the signs." Do they normally just die so quickly or is there a way to see that a battery is starting to go? I know it's easier with a rechargeable battery because you can notice them not last as long, but since we don't actively charge our car batteries (the alternator does), we can't really tell that way.

Hmm maybe I can get a friend to bring me to Wal-Mart to pick up a battery... I think it's the closest store that has 'em.

EDIT:

One thing I did notice is that when the guy came out to jump the battery, there was never a spark when he touched the leads. Is that normal?
 
Aikouka said:
Yep. That's what I'm hearing. I'd record a video, but I don't want to keep attempting to start it as that would flood the engine, right?



Nope, the battery is the original.



Hmm I've never dealt with a dead battery in the past, so I don't know too much about "the signs." Do they normally just die so quickly or is there a way to see that a battery is starting to go? I know it's easier with a rechargeable battery because you can notice them not last as long, but since we don't actively charge our car batteries (the alternator does), we can't really tell that way.

Hmm maybe I can get a friend to bring me to Wal-Mart to pick up a battery... I think it's the closest store that has 'em.

EDIT:

One thing I did notice is that when the guy came out to jump the battery, there was never a spark when he touched the leads. Is that normal?
Click to expand...

A dead battery that's dead because you leave the lights on or something will sometimes try to turn over, but a battery with a dead cell will just tiktiktiktik and the lights on the dash might flicker but that's all.
 
I saw a video that says that I can test the voltage with a multimeter, which I have. There's not an issue with doing that... is there?
 
With your battery being 5 years old that is your most likely suspect, however a jump should have worked even with a dead battery.

Next thing to try is jumping with the old battery out of the circuit (disconnect one lead) so the old battery can't drag the new battery down. Or just slap in a new battery if you have one available to borrow. Really at 5 years you might just want to buy a battery anyhow, even if it turns out not to be the problem.

A bad connection would be my next guess. This is fairly likely, especially since the jump didn't work.

It could be the starter or the starting solenoid.

Do you know how to jump around your starting solenoid?
 
Last edited:
MagnusTheBrewer said:
The multimeter will only tell you if the battery has a charge not, if it will hold one.
Click to expand...

The video that I saw mentioned checking the battery's voltage while the car is cranking.

My voltage while sitting there is 12, but when cranking, it drops to 8.

EDIT:

lakedude said:
Do you know how to jump around your starting solenoid?
Click to expand...

I think I've done this once before, but I don't remember much about it. I know that my dad and I tested a starter many years ago, and I assume that what you're talking about is similar. However, I'm not even sure where the starter is on my car. :$
 
My bet is still on the battery - you could also try cleaning the terminals (the connections where the two wires clamp onto the battery). 5 years, though, I'd just throw a new one in. It'll likely fix your problem.
 
It was the battery after all. Had a friend take me to Advance, and they tested the battery and found that it was bad. Put the new one in and she started up without a problem. I'm just glad that my baby's back! :awe:
 
SyndromeOCZ said:
If your getting 12.3-ish volts with your mulitmeter then your battery is still good.
Click to expand...

When? While cranking? While not cranking? Batteries with faulty cells will charge, the chargers will be happy, but because of the dead cell they will show the correct voltage UNTIL you try to draw current from them.

Your blanket statement is neither accurate, nor precise, nor correct.
 
Its worked every time for me. I walk out to my car, if it reads 12.3V then it starts my car, if not then it wont. I'm talking about over 50 car batteries that I've used this method with..
 
Well, your method failed with my battery. 😉

I've now got some weird issues since I replaced my battery. A bunch of small things like how my automatic windows work fine... except for automatic up (automatic down works). Also, my TPMS light blinks for a minute and then goes solid the entire time. I've been trying to do some Google searches to see what's wrong, but I'm not finding anything definitive. I'm pretty certain that my tire pressure is fine (given it was prior to the battery going), but I haven't had a chance to check it yet.
 
SyndromeOCZ said:
Its worked every time for me. I walk out to my car, if it reads 12.3V then it starts my car, if not then it wont. I'm talking about over 50 car batteries that I've used this method with..
Click to expand...

Yeah, my wife's Lexus read 12+ V at rest but dropped to 5.6V when my son tried to crank it over in our garage.
 
Aikouka said:
Well, your method failed with my battery. 😉

I've now got some weird issues since I replaced my battery. A bunch of small things like how my automatic windows work fine... except for automatic up (automatic down works). Also, my TPMS light blinks for a minute and then goes solid the entire time. I've been trying to do some Google searches to see what's wrong, but I'm not finding anything definitive. I'm pretty certain that my tire pressure is fine (given it was prior to the battery going), but I haven't had a chance to check it yet.
Click to expand...

My sunroof doesn't work after replacing the battery. I have to reset it which is easy to do but I have to remember to do it.
 
Aikouka said:
Well, your method failed with my battery. 😉

I've now got some weird issues since I replaced my battery. A bunch of small things like how my automatic windows work fine... except for automatic up (automatic down works). Also, my TPMS light blinks for a minute and then goes solid the entire time. I've been trying to do some Google searches to see what's wrong, but I'm not finding anything definitive. I'm pretty certain that my tire pressure is fine (given it was prior to the battery going), but I haven't had a chance to check it yet.
Click to expand...

Yes, you have to reset a few things when you disconnect the battery. They will most likely be covered in the owner's manual.
 
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