Car speaker configuration ?s

[nightowl]

My car currently has componets in the front and mids in the back. These are all stock speakers in my 95 Civic EX Coupe. I want to replace the all of the speakers since they are somewhat lacking in sound quality and efficiency. Should I replace the fronts with another componet system or can I just get a good pair of coaxials? I would like to keep componets in the fron but I am not sure about getting the tweeter in place because of the way the factory one is mounted. Also, for the back should I stick with mids or can I again put full range coaxials in? How would full range speakers affect the sound verses mids.

 

[Viperoni]

I would highly suggest sticking with components in the front.
Installers at a real shop would probably have little trouble helping you out; honda's are popular cars for audio system upgrades
As for the back, they are "considered" mids but they probably run full range, sounding bad while they're at it.
My suggestiong is to go with coax's, but slap on a (single) crossover coil to roll off the high end startign at 3khz @ 6db per octave.
The coil costs $5, and it'll make your soundstage much better.

 

[Soybomb]

I like viperoni's advice, I think components in the front are very much conducive to a better sound stage.

 

[Aihyah]

civic ex has stock compnent? i thoguht they just had 4 plain paper cone speakers.. no dash mounted tweets

 

[nightowl]

Thanks Viperoni. The mids in the back are run full range, like you said. So, you are saying to get a full range coax speaker and cut-off frequencies above 3KHz? Would a simple filter fgrom Radio Shack work OK or do I need something more advanced? Also, I would like to install the speakers myself to save some $$. The only problem would be mounting the tweeters in the front and getting the crossover mounted. I don't think that should be too hard and I know some people who work on cars who could help me remove the door panels if need be.

 

[nightowl]

Aihyah: Actually it has a stock Acoustic Research speaker system in it and the tweeters are mounted on the doors, close to the side mirrors.

 

[Farbio]

pull off the door panels, all the speakers are simply screwed in there. the tweeters should not be that hard, but if concerned, you can always order new speakers from crutchfield and get the complete maps on just what to do, as well as tech support. the rears are simple, just a lil confusing looking at them. they have grills that seem to have no screws or ways to get them off if i'm not mistaken. simply go in the trunk and look at the decklid from the bottom. there will be 3 or 4 bolts there. undo them and get back in the car, the grills come right up and the speakers follow suit.

good luck!

 

[Viperoni]

The coil is just a simple inductor, wired in series with the + terminal of the coaxial

Example coil

 

[nightowl]

Farbio: I know how to get to all of the speakers except for the tweeters. They are mounted in their own plastic enclosure on the door. I think that I have to take the entire door pannel off to get to them as well as the wiring. Any suggestions on how?

Viperoni: would this work?

 

[Infidelity]

Just pay any car audio shop like 40 bucks and in 10 minutes they will change all the speakers nice and easy.

 

[glen]

Duplicate this system.
linkified

 

[Viperoni]

night, capacitors do the opposite of coils; coils filter out highs, while caps filter out lows.
you want to cut out the highs from the rears so it doesn't ruin your soundstage.

 

[nightowl]

Thanks for the clarification Viperoni. Which one would I need to cut-off at 3KHz?

Glen: That is a very nice system that you have there. I especially like how you integrated the 2 JL subs into the rear deck of your Beemer.

 

[glen]

Thanks.
IB is the way to go in a car.
I am into sound Quality and have about $10,000 in my home system speakers.
No, the car does not sound as good, or as loud, but that is what I was aiming for.
It is most certainly not a boomey RAP music car.
The rear deck was built out of MDF and fiberglass covered with vinyl.
It has to perfectly seal the trunk from the back seat for it to work.

 

[Farbio]

for taking the door panel off, there are going to be a few screws and usually some clips you have to pop out. there will be some screws holding in the door handle most likely, and then when that's removed u have to disengage the door opening rod from the back of the handle - a screw driver just to push it out works. look for any plastic screw covers as to where the screws are otherwise - there is probably one right below the pull handle. the rest should be simply pop clips. feel around the back edge of the door, put a few fingers under and give it a lil tug, u should hear a pop and some clips will come out, follow that pattern from the window down along the bottom of the door and then lift the whole panel up to get it off the window ledge. the only thing remaining will be unplugging a few wire clips to the windows and such. its not a hard process, i promise

 

[Viperoni]

2ohm speaker; 0.11mh
4ohm speaker; 0.21mh
8ohm speaker; 0.42mh

mh is the rating of the coil; partsexpress.com has very high quality coils; +/- 10% is acceptable in crossover design.