Car purchasing Thread

CADsortaGUY

Lifer
Oct 19, 2001
25,162
1
76
www.ShawCAD.com
OK since I've been allowed to come back to AT, I figure I might as well copy this thread to here since it gets linked to on occasion. One of these days I'll clean up and finish???:Q this condensed version but I've said it before so I guess you'll have to deal with it.:D

Please post any questions or comments and I'll give you my opinions/suggestions.


****
Since the topic came up in the main forum I thought I might create a thread in here with some helpful hints for people who are looking to purchase a new or used vehicle from a dealership.

Background: I sold cars for a while a few years back. I sold mostly used cars for a big dealership(atleast for that area) but I did sell a few new cars along the way too. I was mildly successful selling cars but decided to leave that business due to the fact that every other salesman(except the gay guy) was married and divorced atleast once. I didn't think I wanted to deal with those odds. Not only that but it's really hard to be selectively honest to people day after day.

Anyway, on to the "help" and "info".

NEVER EVER EVER BUY BASED ON PAYMENT PRICING.
-meaning - negotiate and settle on purchase price first - then bring up any payment issues you may have(while in Finance office).

NEVER EVER EVER BUY for sticker price
-yes, even those places that claim to be no haggle stores(does Saturn still do that? ) THEY ALL WILL NEGOTIATE if they want to sell cars.


**Update starts here**

Step 1: Figure out your NEEDS in a vehicle, not your wants. Rank them. Make a list of wants in a vehicle and rank them. Take your top 5 from NEEDS and top 2 from Wants and figure out what type(SUV, truck, small car, etc) of vehicle most closely matches them. This may sound silly or "beneath" you but I'm telling you from experience that sales people don't sell to you based on need - they key in on your wants(what makes you feel good). I can't tell you how many times people went out the door with a vehicle that didn't come close to what they NEEDED. You need to have your core set (5 +2) and vehicle type figured out before you ever set foot on a car lot.

Step 2: Take your car type and make a list of cars that fit that description and then cross off brands/models you do NOT want and list the reason next to it. This is another very important step because during the heat of buying you can forget why you did not want a certain vehicle and then suddenly own one due to a slick sales person. Take the vehicles on the list that are not crossed off and rank them.

Step 3: Now that you have a vehicle type and a list of models made and pared down, you need to look at the financial portion. Figure out what you can reasonably afford to pay per month and write it down. Also figure out what you can spare for a down payment and write that down also. These numbers will help determine whether you need to be shopping for a new or used vehicle. For a new vehicle DO NOT go over a 60 month term - EVER! and for a used vehicle do not go over 36 months - EVER! I dealt with too many people who were so upside-down due to long terms on used vehicles it wasn't funny. Continuing to roll that bad equity into a new and longer term is NOT the answer so if you find yourself in this situation, it may be worth while looking at a lease as it will get you to "even" in 3 years.(warning, make sure your driving style suits leasing)

Step 4: Take your numbers to your bank and see what they can do as far as a loan.(DO NOT ACTUALLY GET ONE AT THIS TIME THOUGH). They will look at your numbers and give you some dollar amounts for new and used(if they are a good bank that is) loan total that they will accept. Also make sure to get and remember the Interest rate offered to you by your bank.

Step 5: Take the bank numbers(loan totals) and place them next to your vehicle list and start looking online and in the papers to see if they fall into those number ranges. Take your time on this step and watch a week or two's worth of papers to make sure the numbers really do fit in with the vehicles on the list.

Step 6: Your final list should have atleast 3 different model/makes on it - more would be prefered but sometimes you'll only get a few. This is now the time where you can start driving the dealership lots(atleast 3) looking for your vehicle. DO NOT get out of your vehicle at any of these dealerships the first time through. You are only driving through the lot to mark down how many of each vehicle make/model that is on your list that they have. This step once again may seem silly to you but trust me there is a reason for it.

Step 7: Now that you have this big messy list with a bunch of hatch marks under dealership names find the vehicle your ranked highest and find the dealership that had the most of them. This is the first place you will stop to test drive that vehicle model.

[lots of stuff goes here but I'll have to address it later]

**Update ends here**

NEVER EVER EVER take their first offer/counter offer.
- If they are willing to budge off the sticker and/or droptag(sale price) once they will budge again. My suggestion is that if there have been 3 or more counter offers by them(that they actually moved on price) then you are getting close to their bottom line. If there have been 3 successful price lowerings - keep trying until they come back atleast twice with the statement "we can't go any lower" and haven't budged on price. Yes, I know you might be a bit intimidated to do this, but I swear to you, the extra 30-45 minutes this step takes can save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars.

THE NEXT STEP:
-- now that you've gotten them to their rock bottom pricing - DO NOT SAY OK! Make up some excuse for a reason you need to leave(like think it over, ask your brother, etc. See my list of excuses below if you need some help with excuses) and then get up and walk to the door. If you make it out of the door, take a bit of time hanging around your old vehicle before getting in(Act like you wish you could buy but need to leave). Now I said "if" you make it to the door for a reason. 99 times out of 100 the sales person or their manager(if either are worth their salt that is) will catch you before you get to the door. Don't make a scene, just politely mention you need to leave while repeating the excuse you used. They'll try to sweet talk you into sitting back down to sign. Take a minute to hessitate but then go ahead and sit back down at the salesperson's desk. Hit them again with your lower offer(the one they couldn't match) and say that you'd buy if they could hit it. IF there is any room left for them to deal - this is where it will show up. You may need to repeat this step 2-3 times to squeeze some more out of them but if you keep leading on that will buy - they'll try to make it happen.

Well, that's about enough for now. It's pretty basic stuff but I guarantee it'll save you some $$. There is much more to this so I'll try to add more as time allows because I know I left a few things out. But the above should give you some guidlines/suggestions for the actual negotiation process.


If anyone has any questions/comments/tips to add please feel free to post them. I'll try to keep this first post updated with them.




***********
List of excuses:
#1 used excuse - "I have to check with my wife"
"Kids have a ___ game to get to and I have to get them there"(this one is great if you want to set them up which I'll explain at a later date)
"my brother/dad/freind is a car guy so I need to see what he thinks" (this is the third baseman routine excuse - can mess things up if you really intend on purchasing that day since this excuse does sometimes make them let you leave)
"have to go to work"
"pick up kids from daycare/sitters"
 

Demon-Xanth

Lifer
Feb 15, 2000
20,551
2
81
One thing I'll mention:
Go to KBB and get the invoice price and such. It'll help alot. If a vehicle has been on the lot for a while, you CAN go below invoice. (GTOs are very good candidates for this) It costs them money to keep it there. If you don't know what a number is, ask them about it. Often they'll add various costs and such to the sticker, and you can get them to remove it. If they don't want to play the way you want to play, walk.

Both my dad and myself went through fleet dealers and ended up with custom ordered trucks for $500 over invoice. He wanted an option that was on the horizon (6 speed in a '99 Ram) and I wanted an uncommon option (V8+manual in a Dakota). I walked from three dealerships because they wanted to push thier inventory. They wanted to sell me $25k trucks that had all the options. I wanted one for under $20k with just what I wanted and what I would use. I got exactly what I wanted for $19,470. I had to wait 8 weeks, which I had no problem doing (ended up getting 0% interest because of it), my dad 8 months (production delays, was the first year for the 6 speed). Most of the on the floor salesman didn't get that we were in no hurry and are worried that if you walk out without keys you won't be back.

Moral: Play your own game. If they don't want to, take your ball and find someone else that will.
 

Apex

Diamond Member
Oct 11, 1999
6,511
1
71
www.gotapex.com
Originally posted by: CADsortaGUY
NEVER EVER EVER BUY for sticker price
-yes, even those places that claim to be no haggle stores(does Saturn still do that? ) THEY ALL WILL NEGOTIATE if they want to sell cars.

Depends on what you're looking to buy. There are plenty of places that only sell for sticker (or sticker + for specific models).

Try to get a 599 for anywhere near sticker. :D
 

CADsortaGUY

Lifer
Oct 19, 2001
25,162
1
76
www.ShawCAD.com
This is true on specific models and especially true on new and hyped models. However you shouldn't be buying these anyway if you are looking for a deal. Depreciation on new cars and especially brand new models will hurt the overall "deal". The way I look at it is - if you have that much money to spend on the "latest and greatest" - you probably won't care if you got a "deal" since you just want the car. :)
 
Dec 27, 2001
11,272
1
0
Welcome back Cad.

I'll suggest this. Negotiating based on the monthly payment can be a bad idea. Don't look at it in terms of another measely $30 a month......look at it an extra $2000 over the next five years. That's a couple 37" plasmas or a trip to Hawaii for two. Once you know what you can afford, translate that to a purchase price and make that your target.
 

Pacfanweb

Lifer
Jan 2, 2000
13,155
59
91
Cad was banned?

#1 misconception about car sales: Car salesmen are the biggest liars. Wrong. Customers lie FAR more than the salesmen ever do.
Work as a car salesman awhile and you'll find this out. Probably 8 of 10 customers will tell the salesman one thing, then get into finance or even in front of a manager and tell them an entirely different story.

Good info up there, though.
 

ayabe

Diamond Member
Aug 10, 2005
7,449
0
0
One thing I will add - never go over 50% of your yearly earnings on the price of a car.

Cars are generally terrible investments and you will have too much debt to effectively invest in your future.
 

CADsortaGUY

Lifer
Oct 19, 2001
25,162
1
76
www.ShawCAD.com
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Cad was banned?

#1 misconception about car sales: Car salesmen are the biggest liars. Wrong. Customers lie FAR more than the salesmen ever do.
Work as a car salesman awhile and you'll find this out. Probably 8 of 10 customers will tell the salesman one thing, then get into finance or even in front of a manager and tell them an entirely different story.

Good info up there, though.

Yeah, I was.:p

True, customers LIE, salespeople mislead and tell half(selective) truths.;)


I think I'll add other tidbits that people post to the OP when I get it cleaned up a bit. It should make for a more helpful thread.:)
 

Playmaker

Golden Member
Sep 17, 2000
1,584
0
0
What's your take on getting a used car inspected? I'm looking at some 2-3 year old cars (as well as new) still under warranty, but I feel like I should take any used car I'm serious about to Meineke or something to get it checked out by a third party. Or is that just a waste of money? And if I should do it, what should I pay?
 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
13
81
I'm all for a good deal, but at the same time I don't push my sales people. We have gotten great deals from our sales people because I dont hassle them and cause them grief. I tell them what I want and that's it. At least, that's what I like to believe ;)

The last few have all been phone/Internet. In fact, the last one I said "I've heard you have given good pricing to other people, what can you do for me?" and I got it about $1,500 below TMV and almost $1,000 below invoice listed on Edmunds. Whether I got a "great" deal is up for debate, but when the local dealers heard the price I got they were shocked :p
 

CADsortaGUY

Lifer
Oct 19, 2001
25,162
1
76
www.ShawCAD.com
Originally posted by: Playmaker
What's your take on getting a used car inspected? I'm looking at some 2-3 year old cars (as well as new) still under warranty, but I feel like I should take any used car I'm serious about to Meineke or something to get it checked out by a third party. Or is that just a waste of money? And if I should do it, what should I pay?

Depends on the vehicle's milage. If it's under factory warranty then it may be less of an issue but if it's over the 3/36 or whatever the factory puts on it - then yes, my recoomendation is to take it to a 3rd party garage to have them give it the once over.

What you do is find the vehicle you want to buy and during negotiations you stipulate that it has to pass an independent inspection. Make sure you get them to put it right on the contract before you sign it. Don't let them talk you out of it - stick to your guns.

As for how much to pay - I have no idea what inspections cost theese days. It was about $40 at a couple different places when I was selling. Also be sure to pick a place that the dealership does not use to do tires, brakes, etc ;) Trust me.

Ask yourself this - is $50-$100 too much for a bit of reassuance when you are spending $15-20K? Also make sure you get the dealership to give you a copy of the carfax report.(they'll do it but you may need to ask several times)
 

Pastore

Diamond Member
Feb 9, 2000
9,728
0
76
Originally posted by: ayabe
One thing I will add - never go over 50% of your yearly earnings on the price of a car.

Cars are generally terrible investments and you will have too much debt to effectively invest in your future.

I'd change that to say not to FINANCE more than 50% of your yearly earnings. Down payments help a lot. :)
 

Sluggo

Lifer
Jun 12, 2000
15,488
5
81
One trick that has ALWAYS worked for me.

Once you are done haggling the sales manager to death, and you are SURE he isnt dropping the price anymore, and as stated once you leave and come back at least once to make sure they are on their best dollar amount, then sign, but have them put "deal contingent upon buyer being satisfied with finance terms and length of finance contract." Thisis basically an out for you in the finance office.

Once in the finance office and you are again SURE you have the best interest rate, and the length of finance contract you want, still complain about the amount of the payment. THe trick here is that the finance guy will have the power to still knock another $500-800 of of the deal to get the payment down enough to get you to finally sign the bottom line.
 

Gibson486

Lifer
Aug 9, 2000
18,378
2
0
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
I'm all for a good deal, but at the same time I don't push my sales people. We have gotten great deals from our sales people because I dont hassle them and cause them grief. I tell them what I want and that's it. At least, that's what I like to believe ;)

The last few have all been phone/Internet. In fact, the last one I said "I've heard you have given good pricing to other people, what can you do for me?" and I got it about $1,500 below TMV and almost $1,000 below invoice listed on Edmunds. Whether I got a "great" deal is up for debate, but when the local dealers heard the price I got they were shocked :p

I did that for Suburu and they are offering me a impreza wagon (auto) for 16.5K otd. It's too bad that I really did not like the car at all. Mazda 3 on the other hand...forget about it. They will not budge on price (lowest I could get was 18.7 for a Touring HB).
 

ayabe

Diamond Member
Aug 10, 2005
7,449
0
0
Originally posted by: Pastore
Originally posted by: ayabe
One thing I will add - never go over 50% of your yearly earnings on the price of a car.

Cars are generally terrible investments and you will have too much debt to effectively invest in your future.

I'd change that to say not to FINANCE more than 50% of your yearly earnings. Down payments help a lot. :)

Well that's what I meant, but thanks for clarifying. :thumbsup: