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Car manuals say: "Don't let your engine run idle for long"

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Many are, yes. I've got a handy little Dashhawk that shows me AFR information and it's a *little* rich, around 13.8 or so, but the car will switch to closed-loop after it warms up and increase the AFR to around 15.0 after a few minutes.

How to tell when you're used to tuning a turbo car:

You see a 15:1 A/F ratio and the gut reaction is, "SHUT IT DOWN NOW!" 😛

15:1 is fine for steady-state cruise with low loads on the engine, but it's hard to kick the habit of tuning under boost at WOT. Last dyno run I was hitting ~13.2:1 at redline and maintaining ~12.3:1 from about 3,000 RPM to 5,500 RPM and I considered that to be on the edge of being too lean. 😀

ZV
 
How to tell when you're used to tuning a turbo car:

You see a 15:1 A/F ratio and the gut reaction is, "SHUT IT DOWN NOW!" 😛

15:1 is fine for steady-state cruise with low loads on the engine, but it's hard to kick the habit of tuning under boost at WOT. Last dyno run I was hitting ~13.2:1 at redline and maintaining ~12.3:1 from about 3,000 RPM to 5,500 RPM and I considered that to be on the edge of being too lean. 😀

ZV

HAH 13.2 at redline... so lean... 😉 My MS3 is in the 10s and 9s during WOT. I'm amazed it doesn't launch more fireballs...
 
HAH 13.2 at redline... so lean... 😉 My MS3 is in the 10s and 9s during WOT. I'm amazed it doesn't launch more fireballs...

It will after you burn your cats up. 😛

My FXT is right around 11.0 - 11.1 at WOT. Gotta hook the wideband up to the MR2...guaranteed that's in the 10's...
 
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