Car History: What problems have you had?

[Koing]

It'll be interesting to know since in another post I saw alot of BMW reliability/ maintenance issues being posted 😛

Vauxhall Astra 1.4l 96 : no issues : bought £600 @ 83k miles put 21k miles in 3yrs drove fine, apart from wear and tear bits failing costing me £150 a year to pass it's MOT

Honda S2000 2002 : no issues, just likes to drink oil a bit each month 😛 £10.5k, put 9k on it in about a year

Koing

 

[jlee]

'91 MR2 Turbo with almost 247k on the chassis, ~70k on the motor. Ball joints, outer tie rod ends, struts, turbo/manifold gasket, rear brakes. As far as "problems".., everything was replaced either before it was bad or before I knew it was bad (i.e. upgrading shocks and discovered the old ones were garbage), excepting the turbo gasket...which was a bona fide problem. 😛

'05 Tundra: Oil changes. 😀

 

[Colt45]

I drive a 20 year old German car. I think I've fixed pretty much every part at this point in time.

 

[ChaosDivine]

2001 Lincoln LS V8 : VCGs, a few COPs, DCCV (no idle heat) and degas bottle.

 

[Gillbot]

I don't have the time nor does AT have the server space for me to list it all out. :laugh:

 

[SparkyJJO]

Gillbot, mod-related stuff might not count 😉

But let me guess... power window motors is one of the things right? 😛


I've replaced shocks, brakes (rotors+pads), windshield, fender, headlights, rear axle bearings, driver window motor, outer tie rod ends, LCA bushings, and my engine. Buying an abused car is a BAD idea. Not doing that again.

 

[StageLeft]

92 accord ran from 170-185 km, 5 speed tranny died
93 sentra ran from 141-180 miles, only repair I think was the thermostat. It got a healthy engine oil leak but I just kept topping it off
97 maxima, 75k miles-90k miles, one of the cv boots split
00 maxima 37k-128k miles so far, ignition coils, two O2 sensors, MAF, both CV boots split
04 mpv, 15k-80k miles so far, ignition coils, front struts and sway bar links

 

[lsd]

Let's see:
'90 maxima gxe: Auto tranny, a/c, l&r axles, alternator, digital dash
'93 maxima se: clutch, l&r axles, alternator, wheel hub, ball joints, tie rod ends
'99 g20: wheel hub, a/c compressor
'03 g35: muffler leak, radio/ac control unit

 

[Koing]

Originally posted by: SparkyJJO
Gillbot, mod-related stuff might not count 😉

But let me guess... power window motors is one of the things right? 😛


I've replaced shocks, brakes (rotors+pads), windshield, fender, headlights, rear axle bearings, driver window motor, outer tie rod ends, LCA bushings, and my engine. Buying an abused car is a BAD idea. Not doing that again.

What car was it and age?

Koing

 

[halik]

A6 2.7T @100K miles: CV joint boots (1 actual cv joint), control arms, valve cover gaskets, secondary air pump/comi valves (has CEL when i bought it)

CLK v8 @ 60K: New MAF and replaced cat under warranty

A4 v6 @90K: New transmission, control arms, CV joints, starter (the only unexpected thing), wheel bearing

 

[Demo24]

05 WRX: Not long after buying it my rear diff decided to start eating itself, got that replaced under warranty, and a brake light switch went out on me(took me awhile to discover this). Besides needing a few things adjusted it's just needed regular maintenance. Just rolled over 50k this weekend, which means I've put a bit under 35k on it since I bought it 3 years ago. 🙂

 

[MotF Bane]

'98 Grand Prix: rebuilt transmission, headlights, driver window motor (accident-related possibly), exhaust resonator, oil gasket (GM recall), interior water leak, inner and outer tie rod ends, and right rear bearing. Now closing on 120k miles.

 

[chin311]

07 versa, 46k.

nothing but scheduled maintenance, fuel pressure regulator died around 20k but warranty fixed that. nothing since.

 

[SparkyJJO]

Originally posted by: Koing

Originally posted by: SparkyJJO
Gillbot, mod-related stuff might not count 😉

But let me guess... power window motors is one of the things right? 😛


I've replaced shocks, brakes (rotors+pads), windshield, fender, headlights, rear axle bearings, driver window motor, outer tie rod ends, LCA bushings, and my engine. Buying an abused car is a BAD idea. Not doing that again.

What car was it and age?

Koing

98 Camaro V6 with 124k miles. Original engine was beat pretty good, just wasn't aware when I first bought it.

I've put 20k miles on the car since I got it almost 2 years ago. When I got it, I discovered it had the original brakes, plugs, wires, filter, and battery. Tires were nearly bald but I knew that going in.

 

[xanis]

'00 Cavalier 2.2L 2dr 3-speed w/ ~83K miles

New rotors/drums, new brake pads, re-alignment. That's it. I've had the car about 4 years now.

 

[coldmeat]

My #1 car problem is not being able to afford one.

 

[c3p0]

07 Dodge Charger RT 20k = Oil Changes...nothing else

04 Jeep Liberty 70k = Oil Changes and Front Breaks...nothing else...will need tires soon!

c3p0
:beer:

 

[Gillbot]

Originally posted by: SparkyJJO
Gillbot, mod-related stuff might not count 😉

But let me guess... power window motors is one of the things right? 😛


I've replaced shocks, brakes (rotors+pads), windshield, fender, headlights, rear axle bearings, driver window motor, outer tie rod ends, LCA bushings, and my engine. Buying an abused car is a BAD idea. Not doing that again.

I'm talking my beginning driver history alone! :shocked:

I am pure torcher on cars. If they last me a year, they'll last anyone else a lifetime. :laugh:

 

[rh71]

95 Rodeo: rebuilt tranny, p/s pump, starter... those are the mechanical problems. Interior and electrical have held up pretty well in general and I still drive it.

 

[Black88GTA]

Listing only the necessary things here, and not including optional upgrades...

1994 BMW 840, (80k - 105k) - Replaced fuel pump, heater valve, oil separator, control arm bushings, auxiliary water pump, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, front brake pads and rotors, drive belt, one coil.

Needs to have the headliner redone (have an appt in a couple weeks for this) as well as some electrical diag and HVAC work that I don't have the tools for. Also has annoying lifter tick which I need to take care of.


1994 Subaru SVX, (102k - 105k) - Replaced transmission, full exhaust, stereo (incl all 4 speakers, amp, deck, wiring, + sub and sub amp), both front CV axles, hood shocks, MAF, cam / crank seals, crank pulley, power antenna, rear wiper, front calipers, all 4 rotors, front and rear brake pads, valve cover gaskets, drive belts, PCV, spark plugs, tires, spare tire cover, and resealed rear calipers.

Needs suspension work, doors (rotted out), minor bodywork, and paint. Yes, this one was / is definitely a project.


1989 Honda Prelude, (117k - 125k) - Replaced EACV, axles, front and rear brake pads, LR caliper, exhaust, rear speakers, rear sway bar endlinks, one tire, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, intake manifold gasket.

Needs glass reseal (water is getting in somewhere), plus it stopped running a while ago. I haven't had time to look at it yet, but I think the timing belt broke 🙁


I can't even remember everything I've done to the Trans Am, I've had it for 10 years.

 

[smitbret]

1993-2006 - 1991 Eagle Talon: Drove from 54000 miles to 232000 miles repalced the tranny three times. The 2nd gear synchros would go out about every 80,000 miles. I just replaced them with junkyard trannies. Got to where I could do the entire job in about 4 hours.

2002-2007 - 2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue: Drove from 32000 to 120000 miles. Tranny went out on the way to Vegas. Replaced the crank sensor at about 85000 miles ($65 and half an hour)

2007-Current - 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6: Replaced the Sun shade clip at about 33k. At about 40k on it right now and it's going strong.

2006-Current - 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser: Power steering pump at 15k. Trunk latch at 17k. Electronic Control Module at 24k. Engine had to be replaced at 31k, the replacement was bad and had to be replaced a week later, so actually, two engines at 31k. Stereo at 34k. I'm at 37k now and nothing's wrong that I'm aware of.

Moral of the story import>>>>>>>>>>domestic

 

[Arkaign]

3000GT VR-4, Replaced turbos, ABS computer/transponder thing, differential, loads of half-shafts, AC compressor, etc.

Dodge Neon, bought new, had heaps of problems the entire time, sent to the scrapper with ~60k miles on it. What a total heap of shit that thing was.

Prelude SH, had zero problems with it, threw a Jackson SC on it, and proceeded to eat CV axles like candy, probably went through 4 or 5 sets. Some other minor stuff like LR wheel hub, brakes, exhaust (bottomed out on rough RR crossing = damage).

Originally posted by: halik
A6 2.7T @100K miles: CV joint boots (1 actual cv joint), control arms, valve cover gaskets, secondary air pump/comi valves (has CEL when i bought it)

CLK v8 @ 60K: New MAF and replaced cat under warranty

A4 v6 @90K: New transmission, control arms, CV joints, starter (the only unexpected thing), wheel bearing

The fuck? Why would one expect to have to replace a tranny with less than 100k on the clock? Sounds brutal, even if you can do it yourself, that is $$.

Originally posted by: Black88GTA

1989 Honda Prelude, (117k - 125k) - Replaced EACV, axles, front and rear brake pads, LR caliper, exhaust, rear speakers, rear sway bar endlinks, one tire, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, intake manifold gasket.

Needs glass reseal (water is getting in somewhere), plus it stopped running a while ago. I haven't had time to look at it yet, but I think the timing belt broke 🙁

Wow, I really like those 3G preludes, a shame it's not running. That's the thing about Hondas, you gotta keep on those timing belts. Hopefully it just stopped at low speed and didn't grenade any valves. Is it the Si with the DOHC 16V? I had one of those gens as well, with the 5 speed, that thing was a tank of a car, and really well designed.

 

[Black88GTA]

Originally posted by: Arkaign

Originally posted by: Black88GTA

1989 Honda Prelude, (117k - 125k) - Replaced EACV, axles, front and rear brake pads, LR caliper, exhaust, rear speakers, rear sway bar endlinks, one tire, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, intake manifold gasket.

Needs glass reseal (water is getting in somewhere), plus it stopped running a while ago. I haven't had time to look at it yet, but I think the timing belt broke 🙁

Wow, I really like those 3G preludes, a shame it's not running. That's the thing about Hondas, you gotta keep on those timing belts. Hopefully it just stopped at low speed and didn't grenade any valves. Is it the Si with the DOHC 16V? I had one of those gens as well, with the 5 speed, that thing was a tank of a car, and really well designed.

Well, I visually inspected the T-belt when I did the VC gasket, and it looked good then - so I figured it was OK. Here's what happened - it was running great, and I parked it for a few weeks. Went to start it, and it turned over, but didn't start. I tried to start it again, and it made a weird wheeeeeeeee noise instead of the normal starting sounds. The bottom end at least is rotating, but it feels like it's turning without any compression - which is why I suspect the belt. Since it wasn't running when it broke (if that is indeed the case) I think I might be good just replacing the belt. Fingers crossed.

Yes, it is the DOHC Si, not 4WS though. Automatic, unfortunately. I would have liked a 5 spd 4WS if I could have found one nearby. When I got it, I needed a car immediately and didn't have the luxury of looking around - it sort of fell into my lap. Agreed on it being a great car though, I really need to find time to work on it and get it back on the road.

The car last summer

 

[angry hampster]

I owned a couple different vehicles as a teenager, but they were older POS cars so I will leave them out.


2005-current: 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4. Rear wiper stopped working last year. Electric door locks on pass. side work only sometimes. Flickering dimmer switch on gauages. IAC valve went out last year..took MONTHS to diagnose. ABS light has been on for a year or two...I don't care about ABS so I never looked into it.

 

[halik]

Originally posted by: Arkaign

Originally posted by: halik
A6 2.7T @100K miles: CV joint boots (1 actual cv joint), control arms, valve cover gaskets, secondary air pump/comi valves (has CEL when i bought it)

CLK v8 @ 60K: New MAF and replaced cat under warranty

A4 v6 @90K: New transmission, control arms, CV joints, starter (the only unexpected thing), wheel bearing

The fuck? Why would one expect to have to replace a tranny with less than 100k on the clock? Sounds brutal, even if you can do it yourself, that is $$.

I think I paid $450 shipped for the trans and did the work myself. I bought the car wrecked anyway and the 2nd gear was messed up... till it blew completely.