Car having trouble starting up...and some other symptom...

[IHAVEAQUESTION]

98 Accord V6
138k
1st hand owner

I notice this happening more and more often recently, I would start the engine and it would take 2 to 3 seconds to crank up, the engine sounds like it's sick. Afterward on the road, the tranny just acts funny...shifting abruptly and untimely. I last replaced the battery 3 years ago or 35k ago....so it could be my battery running low. I've also heard it could be the solenoid....but I have no idea what it does and why it could be the problem.

Another issue that could be related is that sometimes when I come to a stop (step on the brake), the RPM would dip to 300RPM before picking itself up to 800RPM. The car just shakes and feels like it was going to die. Frankly, I am not sure what the problem is....but I think it could be electric-related too.

Anyway, I am also looking for an honest, reliable shop in Los Angeles, if any of you have a recommendation, please let me know. And also, please help identifying the possible problem with my car.

 

[Zenmervolt]

When was the last time you changed the transmission fluid? It should be changed every 30,000 miles essentially regardless of what the service book says. Missing that maintenance item (especially if you've never changed the fluid at all) could be one reason the transmission is shifting funny.

I generally expect a battery to last at least 5 years, generally 6 or more, and my cars go through winter. You'd have to have a really cheap battery for it to be failing after only 3 years in the spectacularly mild climate of LA.

The idle issue (and possibly the starting issue) could very well be the idle stabilizer valve (sometimes also called the "Idle Air Control" or the "Auxiliary Air Valve") being gummed up. Another potential at this mileage is the PCV system, which may very well need to be cleaned out or have the valve replaced. Actually, the PCV issue seems more likely as that symptom typically only comes up when the engine is returning to idle after being under load.

Can't help you with the shop recommendation. Perhaps a member in the LA area will chime in though.

ZV

 

[IHAVEAQUESTION]

It's not the fluid. The tranny only shifts funny after a rough start, it's normal otherwise.

I am inclined to think the battery is running low but who knows. I think it has something to do with ignition switch/solenoid/starter...whichever is more likely to blame.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: IHAVEAQUESTION
It's not the fluid. The tranny only shifts funny after a rough start, it's normal otherwise.

I am inclined to think the battery is running low but who knows. I think it has something to do with ignition switch/solenoid/starter...whichever is more likely to blame.

A low battery would not affect the car when after it has started. A low battery would only cause it to crank slowly. And three years would be a very short life for a battery, not at all to be expected in LA's mild climate.

None of the things you name would cause an issue with the transmission. It's possible that the running problem with the engine is causing difficulty in modulating torque when shifting.

The symptoms you describe are indicative of a faulty idle control valve or, more likely, a gummed-up PCV system which probably needs to have the PCV valve replaced.

ZV

 

[CrackRabbit]

The symptoms sound very similar to an EGR valve failure. Possibly stuck partially open.

 

[Zenmervolt]

CrackRabit has a good idea too, I missed that and it's a definite possibility.

 

[IHAVEAQUESTION]

Zenmervolt, looks like you hit the jackpot. I went to a mechanic today and he thinks it's the idle valve too. How much does it cost to replace it on a 98 Accord V6?

He said the rough start should only happen when the car is cold, I am not sure about that, I could almost swear it happens when it's warm too....I will keep an eye on it when it happens again.

Is it possible to clean instead of replacing it? I am thinking if it's not too difficult I might want to take up the job and do it myself.

 

[Deviant Grasshopper]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: IHAVEAQUESTION
It's not the fluid. The tranny only shifts funny after a rough start, it's normal otherwise.

I am inclined to think the battery is running low but who knows. I think it has something to do with ignition switch/solenoid/starter...whichever is more likely to blame.

A low battery would not affect the car when after it has started. A low battery would only cause it to crank slowly. And three years would be a very short life for a battery, not at all to be expected in LA's mild climate.

None of the things you name would cause an issue with the transmission. It's possible that the running problem with the engine is causing difficulty in modulating torque when shifting.

The symptoms you describe are indicative of a faulty idle control valve or, more likely, a gummed-up PCV system which probably needs to have the PCV valve replaced.

ZV

I have to chime in that I've seen a few vehicles behave very oddly due to a bad battery after starting (particularly if it needed a jump).

However, I agree that the iacv is the most likely culprit. I'd recommend a good tune-up all around as well since your plugs/wires and such are probably due to be replaced.

 

[Kroze]

I just got the battery on my 2006 Accord replaced under warranty. The car is not even 3 years old yet and the battery is no good. It all started when it was 10 degrees out for like 4 days straight and the car wouldn't start. I have to push start the car. So today I took it into the dealer for them to test it & they said the battery is bad & replaced it under warranty.

 

[IHAVEAQUESTION]

A few days ago I spent 3 hours cleaning the IAC and throttle body and thought the problem went away. The car runs a bit smoother and I didn't notice slow start in a couple of days. But just yesterday, it happened again. This time, I drove five mins to pick up something, I left the car for about 10 min and when I came back, it happened. Not a completely cold start...so I am not sure what to make of it.

I am thinking it's either a bad solenoid (like one of my friend suggested) or bad starter or just bad battery. I didn't replace the IAC valve like the mechanic suggested so the IAC could still be the problem. I could try to clean it again but I am not sure how much that's going to help.

I am tempted to replace the battery. It probably just doesn't have enough juice for several cranks a day.

 

[funboy6942]

WAIT WAIT WAIT......
130K on the tick, says he has changed the battery, and no one till me has ever mentioned giving the poor car a tune up?????? Bad wires/Plugs will do everything he is mentioning, and at 130K, I dont care what plugs are in it, they are not meant to last 100K+.

But then, Im the one on drugs around here, I could be wrong.

BTW OP, as mentioned though, your battery will not cause the problems you mention, but bad plugs and wires will make it hard for the car to start, especially when its cold out vs summertime, and will cause the car to run like crap once started, and the tranny not to "feel" like it is shifting right because your motor is misfiring on all kinds of plugs and barely able to ignite the fuel getting to her, let alone make enough power to move you and the car too.

Your battery does nothing more then power the starter to crank the motor over, once started the battery, and starter, is NOT used at all for anything else as the alternator takes over to power everything else, and puts what juice you used to start the car back into the battery, but for 100% sure, your throwing your money away thinking changing the battery will make your problems go away, your just going to have a new battery in a car that still runs like crap.

 

[pcgeek11]

IAC Valve.
Tune up
PCV
or possibly a vacuum leak somewhere.

I agree with funboy6942:
Replacing the Battery is a waste of money and time.