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car has no power in reverse

E

edprush

Platinum Member
It feels like the brakes lock up when I try to go in reverse. I doubt that is what is actually happening though--it just feels like it. Car goes forward just fine.

What do you think the problem is? Exhaust obstruction, transmission, brakes,...



This thread was moved because Off Topic is not the car forum.
AnandTech Senior Moderator: oldsmoboat
 
Without any more info, it could be the reverse sprag in the transmission has something in it that's keeping the gears from moving. But since you posted in the wrong forum I'm going to give you a mystery link.
 
Originally posted by: edprush
Could it be the torque convertor?
Click to expand...

No. That would cause issues in all gears.

Check the parking brake for proper operation. Drum brakes have a natural amount of "self application" (that is, when you engage a drum brake, the friction against the wheel's rotation causes the brake shoe to rub harder against the inside of the drum), and if the parking brake (which is sometimes a cable-operated drum brake even if the service brakes are all discs) has one shoe that is sticking a little, it can cause extra resistance in one direction.

It's very hard to diagnose anything without more information though. You really need to give us the following:

Year
Make
Model
Mileage
Trim Level

That won't guarantee an answer, but it will help us.

ZV
 


Year: 1991
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Caprice
Mileage: 165000
Trim Level: Classic (?)

It is rear-wheel drive.

I noticed this problem shortly after running over railroad tracks at too high of a speed (about 3 weeks ago). It was a major jarring to the car.

Here's more info: The lack of power happens about 60% of the time I put the car in reverse. If I continue to push the accelerator, while in reverse, the engine revs up and eventually (after about 10-20 seconds) the car takes off quickly.

I get this feeling that the car is gonna backfire when I'm depressing the accelerator.

If I put the car back into drive, then into reverse, then drive, then reverse--it usually allows me to go in reverse.

I had my drum brakes (rear wheels) worked on about 6 weeks ago.


 
I'd first take the car to the shop that did your brakes & ask them to check their work, then it sounds like you may need to get to know a transmission mechanic in the biblical sense :brokenheart:
 
Originally posted by: Pliablemoose
then it sounds like you may need to get to know a transmission mechanic in the biblical sense :brokenheart:
Click to expand...

I'll get to know autotrader.com instead.

 
Originally posted by: edprush
Originally posted by: Pliablemoose
then it sounds like you may need to get to know a transmission mechanic in the biblical sense :brokenheart:
Click to expand...

I'll get to know autotrader.com instead.
Click to expand...

Thank you :thumbsup:

Originally posted by: Demon-Xanth
Check your transmission fluid. Make sure it's not low, or burnt, or sparkly.
Click to expand...
Sparkly is good. 🙂 Sparkly transmission fluid = money for me 😉

We can fix it, ...... we have the technology. :laugh:
 
Originally posted by: Demon-Xanth
Check your transmission fluid. Make sure it's not low, or burnt, or sparkly.
Click to expand...

Much more likely that something else is binding. A transmission issue should manifest itself in more than just Reverse.

I really think that something is loose and binding against the some part of the drivetrain when you're in reverse. Have the parking brakes checked and go from there.

ZV
 
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Originally posted by: Demon-Xanth
Check your transmission fluid. Make sure it's not low, or burnt, or sparkly.
Click to expand...

Much more likely that something else is binding. A transmission issue should manifest itself in more than just Reverse.

I really think that something is loose and binding against the some part of the drivetrain when you're in reverse. Have the parking brakes checked and go from there.

ZV
Click to expand...
On the contrary I have seen where a THM 700 will be damaged on the back of the pump. The damage is where the sealing rings for the reverse input clutches are located. If these rings are damaged it can cause problems in reverse and reverse only.

Originally posted by: edprush
Here's more info: The lack of power happens about 60% of the time I put the car in reverse. If I continue to push the accelerator, while in reverse, the engine revs up and eventually (after about 10-20 seconds) the car takes off quickly.

I get this feeling that the car is gonna backfire when I'm depressing the accelerator.

If I put the car back into drive, then into reverse, then drive, then reverse--it usually allows me to go in reverse.

I had my drum brakes (rear wheels) worked on about 6 weeks ago.
Click to expand...
When you say "the engine revs up" is it going up to stall speed of the converter which is approximately 2000 RPMs or does shoot on to 3000 or more? If it stops at around stall speed then I would look externally of the transmission for something binding the drivetrain. If the engine goes to high RPMs then the transmission is slipping and that would be the first place I would look.
 
Originally posted by: TonyH
On the contrary I have seen where a THM 700 will be damaged on the back of the pump. The damage is where the sealing rings for the reverse input clutches are located. If these rings are damaged it can cause problems in reverse and reverse only.

Originally posted by: edprush
Here's more info: The lack of power happens about 60% of the time I put the car in reverse. If I continue to push the accelerator, while in reverse, the engine revs up and eventually (after about 10-20 seconds) the car takes off quickly.

I get this feeling that the car is gonna backfire when I'm depressing the accelerator.

If I put the car back into drive, then into reverse, then drive, then reverse--it usually allows me to go in reverse.

I had my drum brakes (rear wheels) worked on about 6 weeks ago.
Click to expand...
When you say "the engine revs up" is it going up to stall speed of the converter which is approximately 2000 RPMs or does shoot on to 3000 or more? If it stops at around stall speed then I would look externally of the transmission for something binding the drivetrain. If the engine goes to high RPMs then the transmission is slipping and that would be the first place I would look.
Click to expand...

I agree that it's possible, but it's not typical. At least, not in my experience. Though I'll admit that I took it as him hitting stall speed on the TC and then the car launching without thinking about clutches maybe slipping.

ZV
 
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Originally posted by: Demon-Xanth
Check your transmission fluid. Make sure it's not low, or burnt, or sparkly.
Click to expand...

Much more likely that something else is binding. A transmission issue should manifest itself in more than just Reverse.

I really think that something is loose and binding against the some part of the drivetrain when you're in reverse. Have the parking brakes checked and go from there.

ZV
Click to expand...

On my rear-wheel drive car, how do parking brakes operate? Are parking brakes on the rear and front wheels?
 
I forgot to mention that TODAY it wouldn't go forward, after I tried reverse.

Here's a description of today's symptoms:
I started the car, put it in reverse, gave it a little gas, it went about 4 feet then stopped immediately. I put it in drive and it went forward about 2 feet then stopped. I just kept switching from drive to reverse and eventually I was able to back out of the parking spot and go home.

When I got home I smelled something burning/burnt. But it didn't smell like rubber.
 
Originally posted by: edprush
I forgot to mention that TODAY it wouldn't go forward, after I tried reverse.

Here's a description of today's symptoms:
I started the car, put it in reverse, gave it a little gas, it went about 4 feet then stopped immediately. I put it in drive and it went forward about 2 feet then stopped. I just kept switching from drive to reverse and eventually I was able to back out of the parking spot and go home.

When I got home I smelled something burning/burnt. But it didn't smell like rubber.
Click to expand...

And there's the problem appearing moving forwards too. I was probably wrong earlier. Sounds like transmission time.

I will say this though, there's a small chance that it could still be something binding or an issue with the shift linkage, but it is probably the transmission.

ZV
 
The good thing about your car is that the transmissions are cheap, common, and reletively easy to replace. Expect about $1000 for a rebuilt, $2000 for a new one plus about 6 hours labor for installation. I'm not sure if they used the TH700-R4 or the 4L60e that year (difference is electronic vs. hydraulic valvebody)
 
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