Car Audio | Where to find good deals on gear?

[PrelateBishop]

First of all, I am functionally retarded when it comes to audio equipment. It frustrates me that I can build a computer with probably just my feet, but stereo gear leaves me feeling like the slow kid that everyone makes fun of when you're a kid.

I drive a '00 Audi A4 and I feel that the stock system performs reasonably well. However, I would like to bolster the low end with an amp and subwoofer combination. So, I require the expertise of you audio gurus on selecting some gear.

As for how much to spend, well, I really don't know. For whatever reason, $500 feels like a reasonable amount of money to spend on a sub+amp solution, but then again I might be dreaming.

My music preferences include virtually every genre of music, with the exception of country...barf.

In addition, I am seeking recommendations for reliable/reputable Web sites that also offer competitive prices. Also feel free to provide feedback on manufacturers.

Finally, I would be open to doing a sef-install, but if the majority opinion is that I should have it professionally done, then so be it.

Thanks.

 

[Slacker]

www.thezeb.com hmm, page is down........... then try www.etronics.com

 

[aphex]

While Crutchfield.com may not always be the cheapest, they are an EXCELLENT company and their customer support is top notch...

 

[Howard]

You can get a great sub+amp for $500.

First of all, do you have any wood-working experience?

Second, what kind of music do you listen to?

 

[PrelateBishop]

Originally posted by: Howard
You can get a great sub+amp for $500.

First of all, do you have any wood-working experience?

Second, what kind of music do you listen to?

I personally am not terribly handy in the shop, but I have a buddy that crafts on stuff all of the time. He's built all kinds of furniture, but never an enclosure.

As for music, I'm all over the board. I love A Perfect Circle and Tool, but feel just as comfortable listening to Jay-Z or Eminem. For lighter fair, perhaps The Beatles or some classical music...pretty much everything except country.

 

[Cdubneeddeal]

Sounds like Infinity subs would be your choice. If you get the 10's from Crutchfield you can get the box from Circuitcity for around $50, give or take a few bucks.

 

[PrelateBishop]

Originally posted by: Cdubneeddeal
Sounds like Infinity subs would be your choice. If you get the 10's from Crutchfield you can get the box from Circuitcity for around $50, give or take a few bucks.

Any particular series of Infinity? What amp would you match with it? How much power to I need? Why 10" vs. 12"?

 

[Cdubneeddeal]

Originally posted by: PrelateBishop

Originally posted by: Cdubneeddeal
Sounds like Infinity subs would be your choice. If you get the 10's from Crutchfield you can get the box from Circuitcity for around $50, give or take a few bucks.

Any particular series of Infinity? What amp would you match with it? How much power to I need? Why 10" vs. 12"?

I have the 1030w's which sound good all around the board. I'm like you and listen to just about everything. The 1030w's are no longer in stock, however, there is a Newer model available. And it's buy one get one free.

 

[aplefka]

I bought my stuff from CarStereoLand.com. Really good prices and supposedly quick shipping. We'll see if they follow through on that. Saw em on PriceGrabber. If my stuff gets here fast and in good shape then I'll buy my sub and amp from them too.

 

[Howard]

Subwoofer driver
Amplifier

The Dayton Reference Series 12" subs are some of the cleanest subs you can buy, and their cost/performance ratio is pretty much unsurpassed.

The Hifonics BX1205D is relatively inexpensive and has a lot of extra power (although reports indicate that the power output is overrated meaning you'll get 75-80% of what it's rated for) so you can get a second sub in the future, if you want.

$130 for the sub (plus tax? not sure), $184+$27 for the amp and you have $160 left over for the plywood/MDF/wiring/carpeting (if desired) and other odds and ends.

EDIT2: I'd calculate a few box volumes for you, both ported and sealed, but I can't find enough T-S parameters for the high-output version of the sub. Sorry.

EDIT3: If you buy just one sub driver, it's cheapest to get it from Partsexpress because right now they have free shipping on orders over $99. If you decide to buy 2 drivers now, it's a few dollars less if you buy them from this auction:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Dayton-Reference-12...3QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

EDIT4: Review/test of the Dayton Ref Series 12" High Fidelity driver

The High Fidelity sub is not exactly the same as the High Output sub (the HF is geared toward home audio, whereas the HO sub is geared toward car audio), but their design is quite similar.

 

[nboy22]

ebay always has good deals on this kind of stuff... shipping isn't the best, but usually buying two subs off of ebay and having them shipped is cheaper than buying them anywhere else

 

Originally posted by: Slacker
www.thezeb.com hmm, page is down........... then try www.etronics.com

Thezeb.com was VERY good to me, great place and nice people.

 

[deadlyapp]

avoid ebay. Ebay is saturated with pos stuff, and if you dont know what you're looking for you might get something shatty.

Stick with good names, MTX, JL audio, infinity, pioneer and kenwoods are good, rockford fosgate is excellent, and kickers are fantastic.

You really only need one sub, you could look into getting a single high quality dual voice coil 12 and then a high power amp. Maybe look into a kicker L5 or something

 

[PrelateBishop]

Originally posted by: Howard
Subwoofer driver
Amplifier

The Dayton Reference Series 12" subs are some of the cleanest subs you can buy, and their cost/performance ratio is pretty much unsurpassed.

The Hifonics BX1205D is relatively inexpensive and has a lot of extra power (although reports indicate that the power output is overrated meaning you'll get 75-80% of what it's rated for) so you can get a second sub in the future, if you want.

Thank you for taking the time to pair an amp with a sub recommendation. I have never heard of Dayton or Hifonics, but then again virtually all of this car audio stuff is news to me.

So, does it make more sense to buy these two items and then take them to an installation shop and have them build a box and install everything?

 

[Howard]

You mentioned that you had a friend who could build the enclosure. I'd imagine that would save at least $10-$20 in labor.

 

[aplefka]

I know it's not my thread, but can anyone tell me if they've got experience with the Pioneer TS-W306DVC sub? Also, the amp I plan on buying is the Pioneer GM-7100M. I know it's only 800W and the sub is 1000W, but I'm sure it'll be enough for my needs.

 

[Howard]

Originally posted by: deadlyapp
avoid ebay. Ebay is saturated with pos stuff, and if you dont know what you're looking for you might get something shatty.

Stick with good names, MTX, JL audio, infinity, pioneer and kenwoods are good, rockford fosgate is excellent, and kickers are fantastic.

You really only need one sub, you could look into getting a single high quality dual voice coil 12 and then a high power amp. Maybe look into a kicker L5 or something

The name isn't enough. Almost all brands have their crap stuff.

 

[JImmyK]

by FAR the best bang for the buck:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/us.php.

 

[Howard]

Originally posted by: JImmyK
by FAR the best bang for the buck:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/us.php.

Possibly. Piss-poor customer service (and I believe I've heard about some QC issues) will keep me away from them, though.

 

[normalicy]

First of all, if all you want to do is boost the low frequencies, then you don't need 1000 watt anything. On top of that, just looking at the numbers will get you in the long run. I've seen 1600 watt amps that could barely do 200 watts (sorta like that Pioneer amp that aplefka mentioned is really only about 200-250 watts, despite the 800w in big lettering on top of the amp & that Pioneer sub that he mentioned can really only handle 400 watts continuously despite the 1000w rating) & I've seen 50 watt amps that can do 800 watts. I've seen 800 watt subs blow with just 100 watts going into them & I've seen idiots try to power a 1500 watt sub (very inefficient) with only 400 watts & wonder why it's barely moving. The key is to only look for RMS or continuous ratings & trying to match them up (though it isn't as much of a big deal as some would make you think).

Second, I agree about Ebay, most of the people selling car audio on ebay are liars. I also agree that a name brand is no longer a reliable way of determining quality. Used to be that Rockford Fosgate only made top end stuff. Now, they make some stuff that's just as crappy as Jensen. Same goes for Pioneer, Sony, Kenwood, etc. (though warranty & customer service is still good). Also, I have used Dayton plenty & they are definately an under-rated company. Very high quality stuff & have been around for a couple decades (mostly home audio though).

Third, definately get a box built especially for the subs that you get. NEVER buy a prebuilt without checking to see if it will work with the sub you purchase. I've seen $1000 subs sound horrible, just because of the box. I've also seen $20 subs outperform said $1000 subs, because they were in an appropriate box with the proper power & crossover point. Lesson is, get a good box. So set aside $100-200 for the box.

Fourth, if you don't feel comfortable installing the stuff, don't. You know all those cars you see on the side of the road with fire coming out of them. Frequently, it's from someone who doesn't know what they were doing & rewiring things. That's right, most car fires are electrical. The power wire to an amp is large enough that if it grounded, it wouldn't break, but would just start burning through everything (think light saber). So, set aside $50-70 for the installation.

Now for recommendations. Since you don't seem to be wanting to be heard down the block, but just fill in the lows, I see no reason why you'd really need more than one 10-12" subwoofer. It will save on space in the trunk & save you some money on the amp. Since you are going to be tapping off of the factory stereo, you either need to factor in a converter for the amp or get an amp with one built in (frequently called a HI level input). I'd say that 150-200 real watts is plenty as well & 400 watts would be about the most you'd need ever.

See my post here if you want an honest seller of car audio:

http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=45&threadid=1735426

Check my Heatware for my reputation