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Car Audio - Volt Problem

Aimster

Lifer
I have a Clarion DXZ715 HU and it won't play most of my CDs. I found this to be a common problem with Clarion HUs. It only works when I start the car up or when the car is on idle. The problem is that it will only run when using 12v and not 14v. How can I regulate it to run at 12v?
 
Originally posted by: Aimster
I have a Clarion DXZ715 HU and it won't play most of my CDs. I found this to be a common problem with Clarion HUs. It only works when I start the car up or when the car is on idle. The problem is that it will only run when using 12v and not 14v. How can I regulate it to run at 12v?

Get a volt-meter, and find a wire or fuse that is running at around twelve volts. Tap into it. Problem solved. It is kind of jury rigging things, but other solutions are going to cost more probably.
 
Originally posted by: Aimster
I have a Clarion DXZ715 HU and it won't play most of my CDs. I found this to be a common problem with Clarion HUs. It only works when I start the car up or when the car is on idle. The problem is that it will only run when using 12v and not 14v. How can I regulate it to run at 12v?

your car idles and starts at 14v?
most cars I've driven are at there lowest peak than when the alternator isn't spinning as fast..
 
Originally posted by: Aimster
I can just get a device (volt regulator?) and attach it to the end of my headunit, right? From like radioshack

not necessarily. I find it really odd that it won't run @ 14V. Yes, a three terminal voltage regulator would give you 12 volts, but there are some serious design issues that need to be addressed. First of all, how much power is this unit going to use? The regulator must be properly matched to the load, including heat sinking etc.

A car charging / battery system is supposed to vary from about 11V up to 14V, depending upon car load, whether accessories are on, or if you're just parked with the engine off. Your stereo should have been designed to meet these parameters. Putting a voltage regulator on is like a bandaid that is hiding the real problem, plus, it can add other problems on its own (for instance, current loading, heat, compliance voltage {all voltage regulators need a few more volts than what they are regulating to})...

HTH
 
You're not making any sense here.. You're saying it only works at 12V and not 14V? If that's the case, then it should only work when you have the key in the car, but no engine running.

Also, if it's a design problem, they (Clarion) would have been pretty ignorant to miss such a big flaw.
 
Typical "12 volt" car batteries will put out around 14 volts unloaded (no heavy current drain). A car audio unit that cannot handle 14 volts is not well designed for automotive applications. If that is the case with your Clarion unit, get another product.
Originally posted by: The_good_guy
but even so you can put a voltage regulator inline if needed.
Ummm... easier said than done. Conventional voltage regulator chips require at least a 1.5 - 2 volt differential between the input and the output. If the difference falls below the minimum, the output voltage also drops, but it remains somewhat less than the input.

There are "low dropout voltage" regulators, but even so, they require around a 0.5 volt differential, and they are usually a little more complicated to use.

If the regulator has to supply power to a power amp, there's the problem of finding a regulator that will supply enough current. If you are running a total of 100 watts, peak power, you will need a regulator that will handle around 8 - 10 amps. That may require extra high current output devices.
 
Well it only "reads" the CDs only when I start the car up. If I want it to read the CD during normal driving I have to keep trying it and then by luck after 1-50x it starts working. Pretty soon I'm going to have a new starter.

I am not the only person who has had this problem. It is a very known Clarion issues. Others just bought another headunit, but I just cannot afford one.
 
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