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Car audio question... Am I going to need anything special to run this?

Originally posted by: Viper GTS
Just grabbed one of these on ebay.

I'm not going to need anything stupid like a new alternator right?

Viper GTS

Dude, I've got an Alpine amp that pumps out more power (800W) and it runs just fine. I've got 2 10" R series Alpine subs that are being pushed by my amp, with nothing extra (no extra or high rated alternator. I did need a higher rated fuse as mine kept blowing out when I cranked it. The only thing now is, my headlights dim slightly when I crank it hard though. 😉
 
Originally posted by: Viper GTS
Well I would prefer to avoid headlight dimming...

Viper GTS

What kind of car? Lights may dim slightly while @ idle, but should be fine while driving.
 
Originally posted by: Viper GTS
Just grabbed one of these on ebay.

I'm not going to need anything stupid like a new alternator right?

Viper GTS

nice,,,I have a REF1211A and i don't even need one, you should be set...great amp btw
 
Glad to hear I made a good choice, this is all new to me.

Hopefully it won't cost me a fortune to install it all.

Thanks for the quick replies.

Viper GTS
 
Only 287watts? No.. you don't need to start looking at a new alternator until your system goes up into the +1000watt range.
 
Originally posted by: BrokenVisage
Originally posted by: Viper GTS
Well I would prefer to avoid headlight dimming...

Viper GTS

Look into something like a 1 Farad capacitor then.

no, dont EVER buy a CAP unless you want it for SHOW.

if you have MINOR dimming, then just upgrade the big 3 and it should go away.

Bat-Alt Alt-Bat Bat-Ground.

upgrade those wires to about 0/1 guage and most every dimming if minimal, will go away. its cheap too.
 
You can only reliably look into power supply issues by looking at the actual current draw (maximum possible) of the amplifier.

Taking the bridged RMS values:
148 watts x 2 + 287 watts x 1 = 583 watts total. Divide by 14.4volts = 40.48 amps. Amplifiers are typically only 60% efficient so it will actually be drawing 67.5 amps maximum.

Thats the theory. In reality, given music's non-constant flow, you'll never actually get that amplifier to draw 67 amps, and it may even not ever go about 50A. You'll be fine 🙂
 
Originally posted by: ryan256
Only 287watts? No.. you don't need to start looking at a new alternator until your system goes up into the +1000watt range.

Where are you seeing 287W?

And I will not tolerate any light dimming/etc, I need all the light I can get.

Viper GTS
 
Originally posted by: MIKEMIKE
Originally posted by: BrokenVisage
Originally posted by: Viper GTS
Well I would prefer to avoid headlight dimming...

Viper GTS

Look into something like a 1 Farad capacitor then.

no, dont EVER buy a CAP unless you want it for SHOW.

if you have MINOR dimming, then just upgrade the big 3 and it should go away.

Bat-Alt Alt-Bat Bat-Ground.

upgrade those wires to about 0/1 guage and most every dimming if minimal, will go away. its cheap too.


Agreed. Cap is worthless.

Install is easy, you can DIY and save.
 
Originally posted by: mrchan
Originally posted by: MIKEMIKE
Originally posted by: BrokenVisage
Originally posted by: Viper GTS
Well I would prefer to avoid headlight dimming...

Viper GTS

Look into something like a 1 Farad capacitor then.

no, dont EVER buy a CAP unless you want it for SHOW.

if you have MINOR dimming, then just upgrade the big 3 and it should go away.

Bat-Alt Alt-Bat Bat-Ground.

upgrade those wires to about 0/1 guage and most every dimming if minimal, will go away. its cheap too.


Agreed. Cap is worthless.

Install is easy, you can DIY and save.

:thumbsup:
 
Originally posted by: Viper GTS
Originally posted by: ryan256
Where are you seeing 287W?

And I will not tolerate any light dimming/etc, I need all the light I can get.

Viper GTS

148 watts x 2 + 287 watts x 1 at 4 ohms

Ok... missed the multichannel part. By bad. Still.. 148*2+287=583 watts. You still don't need a new alternator.
 
I have a memphis Belle 1300D 5 channel amp. 75 x 4 and 1100 x 1 @ 14.4 volts (I think)... and yes this is RMS wattage.

I have a cap just to read my voltage and my lights dim just a bit.
 
Originally posted by: jtvang125
You may want atleast 4 gauge power cables if you're running from battery to trunk area.

I agree.

The difference between an 8AWG wiring kit and 4AWG wiring kit needn't be much price wise, and if you do upgrade you'd have to uprate from 8AWG anyway. The Infinity (at around 60A draw) is close to 8AWG reccomended current flow over 5 meters (the longer the cable the less current it can safely flow). If you get a 4awg wiring kit you might have to use an accessory to take it down to 8awg if thats all the Infinity can accept (don't worry you'll still benefit from having 4awg in the car).

You'll also get less voltage drop with thicker wires, meaning that you get more power out of your amp (power = voltage x current). You might have 14 volts at the front of the car but it can be easily 12.5 at the rear.

FWIW: 4AWG wire is thicker than 8AWG wiring, in case you don't know 🙂
 
Ive got about 750 watts apread across 2 amps and mine never dims... Granted i have HID's, which i believe require less power, but i've never had a problem.

Polk MMC6500 6.5" Components in the front doors
Polk MMC570 5x7 Coax in the rear doors
Polk C400.4 Amp (100w / 4 channels - 400w total)

JL 10" W3 Subwoofer in a Sealed Enclosure
Alpine M301 (350w) Class D Mono Amp

Even running off the stock HU using a LOC, it sounds AMAZING. 4 Gauge wiring going to the 4 channel amp, 8 gauge going to the mono amp.

If your looking for wiring, Buy.com sells the Monster Cable Amp Kits (Power Wire, Ground, Fuses, etc) for a pretty damn good price, especially if you use the 10% off coupon. I bought both my amp kits there for 40-50% less than what the local stores charge. I think my 4-gauge kit was only ~ $35.
 
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