I have a 1991 Olds Cutlass Ciera, and have no idea how many amps the stock alternator can push out. I'm looking at getting a new system with a Profile CA1200 amp capable of 900W RMS. Will my alternator hold up?
Car audio question: 91' Cutlass stock alternator hold up with 900w RMS amp?
- Thread starter Metalloid
- Start date
My 87 Cutlass Ciera went through three alternators with my 600w amp...It'll probably stand up for awhile, but you might have to end up replacing it. I hope this helps.
A capacitor will reduce peak alternator load, but overall alternator load will remain the same, if not increase, due to the fact that the capacitor has to be recharged and it does not have 0 resistance.
So basically I would have to sit there with my car running buy my subs not pounding, and then I could play music for a while after the capacitor is charged. And then after the capacitor is depleted I would have to turn the volume down again?
No a Cap is hooked straight up, so it will only help, NOT hurt. If you were going to run out of power it would happen even if the cap was not there. Think of it as a FAST battery.
Also what motor do you have?
2.5L 4Cyl is either 85 or 100amp
3.3L 6Cyl is either 100 or 105amp
OK then it should be at least 100amp. Juts make sure you have a good battery and get a 1F Cap and you should eb ok.
Now mind you the more you draw the more the Alt work's so get a lifetime warrenty one from Advance or Autozone so when it does wear out it, it is covvered.
rudeguy
Lifer
- Dec 27, 2001
- 47,351
- 14
- 61
thanks for picking up this thread, I crashed early last night.
I cap wont solve your problems if your alternator is already going bad, lights dimming when bass hits etc. but it will help. Like Marlin said, get an alt with a lifetime warranty, hook up a 1F cap, and have at it!
I have hooked up plenty of systems with way more power than you are running and never had a problem. I put 2 1000 watt RMS class D and 1 400 watt RMS 4 channel amps and a cap for each one in a guy's pickup (he had just got a settlement,) his lights didnt even blink. But then again I put a silly 400 watt kenwood in someone's beater and the car shut off everytime the bass hit.
Caps are pretty well worthless. If you graph out alternator draw you'll see virtually no difference.
Besides, amps have caps already built in to them, so essentially EVERY stereo system has caps in it.
Oh please....a cap isn't going to help offset the load. Upgrade your "magic 3" wires first. 600watts rms isn't going to be a big load.......make sure your battery is in good condition also......if you want to be safe...you can buy an optima yellowtop... Go to some car audio forums and ask around there..and they'll tell you the same thing I just did.
BTW - That amp is a bit overrated...so I wouldn't expect the exact numbers written unless you actually do put out 14.4V at all times when the car is on....
BTW - That amp is a bit overrated...so I wouldn't expect the exact numbers written unless you actually do put out 14.4V at all times when the car is on....
Don't worry about it. I've got a Rockford Fosgate 1500bd pushing 750w RMS and another 65x4w RMS 4 channel amp on my highs, plus an AMD K6-500 computer for mp3s in my 90' Toyota. My alternator (<100 amp) hasn't given me problems whatsoever. Just make sure to run large enough wire (if it's in the trunk, run 4 gauge), and make sure you have a good battery and you're set. Don't worry about the cap. It won't do much unless your headlights dim, which I highly doubt they will.
No it wont. Its VERY rare you'll get 14.4 much better to figure at MOST 13.3 as an average.
Cap vs No cap
Ok, so here is what I am getting from all of this.
At 900W continuous, my amp will be drawing about 65A of current. Figure in about 25A for the rest of the car, and I'm pulling 90A at all times, and about 110A when the amp is at peak power on heavy beats. Now, according to the alternators specs, it still has 10A to spare when the amp is only pushing RMS levels. But.... we all know that my 14 year old p.o.s. alternator isn't really capable of pumping out 100A like it says it is.
A cap won't really do me any good, and my voltage levels will stay the same with or without it. So, my only choice is to go for it, and hope for the best, or to buy a new alternator?
At 900W continuous, my amp will be drawing about 65A of current. Figure in about 25A for the rest of the car, and I'm pulling 90A at all times, and about 110A when the amp is at peak power on heavy beats. Now, according to the alternators specs, it still has 10A to spare when the amp is only pushing RMS levels. But.... we all know that my 14 year old p.o.s. alternator isn't really capable of pumping out 100A like it says it is.
A cap won't really do me any good, and my voltage levels will stay the same with or without it. So, my only choice is to go for it, and hope for the best, or to buy a new alternator?
If you're listening to music at full power, the alternator is the lesat of your worries. Your ears would be shot in no time. The amp can do 900 watts continuous, nut in normal listening, it won't come close to that number. Like others have said, buy a new alt with a lifetime warranty, you'll be fine.
Demon-Xanth
Lifer
- Feb 15, 2000
- 20,551
- 2
- 81
You wont be pulling peak power all the time unless your listening to sine waves. You should be fine, i have a 175 amp draw amplifier in my Ford Taurus and it works fine, albeit with some dimming.
Gooddad,
WTF are you talking about. Caps are worthless you retard. Its for just dips in power at most...NOT a solution to a lack of power.
WTF are you talking about. Caps are worthless you retard. Its for just dips in power at most...NOT a solution to a lack of power.
NOTICE I SAID the amp would put out what it said if you have a 14.4V at all times....it doesn't I never stated that a car puts out 14.4 at all times. Read carefully before you reply
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