Car Audio N00b question...

[deadken]

I have a simple question that seems like it would work logically, but might not work in practice. First a little background:

I recently bought a Sony car stereo for an older car (1988 VW Jetta) I'll be using when my daughter gets her license. It supposedly puts out 52 Watts x 4 channels. I understand that the output is probably significantly less maybe as little as 17W per channel. Anyway, I bought it as part of a 'bundle' in which it came with a pair of 6.25" speakers which I put in the rear deck. The stereo was an improvement over the old one, but I still found it lacking even with the 6.25" speakers replacing the 4" ones in the rear deck. I recently added a Alpine MRP-F300 amplifier to drive the rear speakers and it made quite a nice difference. I am considering bridging the other 2 channels of the amplifier to run a small subwoofer (maybe a 6" or 8" Bazooka tube or something similar).

Now, here is my question: Since I am using the 'Pre-Amp' rear channel output for the rear speakers, can I bridge the Sony Stereos amplified rear outputs with the amplified front channel outputs in order to power the front speakers?

I'm thinking that maybe the amplified output is dropped once you plug in the Pre-Amp output? Or, maybe it isn't possible to bridge an internal amplifier? If it would work, what configuration should I try? For one speaker should I try the: Left Front (+) with Left Rear (-)? Or, Left Front (+) with Right Front (-)?

If I have 100W sub and 50W each rear speaker, I think that getting at least 34W each front speaker would help them from getting lost / overpowered.

Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated.

-Thanks, Ken

BTW: I am a 44 Y.O. male with no interest in rattling house windows as I drive down the block. I also don't have the need to impress people with my car stereo. Lastly, here is a link to the stereo bundle I bought in case the answer would vary depending on the model of the stereo:
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-CXS-GT541.../dp/B0032FOJPW

 

[Soundmanred]

Most internal amplifiers in decks are IC based and are already internally bridged, so no.

 

[0roo0roo]

a lot of the problem with disappointing sound is that it is competing with road noise. not enough sound dampening

 

[NutBucket]

I would upgrade the front speakers too and use the amp to drive the 4 main speakers. Amplifying the rear speakers instead of the front is counter productive as the sound stage is now behind you, not in front of you.

Think of it this way, would you set up your home theater with the largest/best speakers behind you?

 

[Rifter]

I would upgrade the front speakers too and use the amp to drive the 4 main speakers. Amplifying the rear speakers instead of the front is counter productive as the sound stage is now behind you, not in front of you.

Think of it this way, would you set up your home theater with the largest/best speakers behind you?

this x2, amp the front if anything before the rear.

EDIT,

forgot original question, as mentioned by above poster most decks will not allow bridging. Just amp all the speakers if looking for more output.

 

[Smoove910]

a lot of the problem with disappointing sound is that it is competing with road noise. not enough sound dampening

Well, if he's not driving and it still sounds like shit, then the road noise has nothing to do with it.

What I would do?
I'd get a 4 channel amp. Run the fronts off the front half of the amp in stereo, then bridge the other half of the amp to a sub in the trunk. I would then run the rear speakers off of the 'rear' output of the deck. This will allow you to maintain control over all speakers in the car via balance/fader controls on the deck. The rear speakers don't need the power of the amp since you only want those for rear-fill anyways.

 

[The Boston Dangler]

Well, if he's not driving and it still sounds like shit, then the road noise has nothing to do with it.

What I would do?
I'd get a 4 channel amp. Run the fronts off the front half of the amp in stereo, then bridge the other half of the amp to a sub in the trunk. I would then run the rear speakers off of the 'rear' output of the deck. This will allow you to maintain control over all speakers in the car via balance/fader controls on the deck. The rear speakers don't need the power of the amp since you only want those for rear-fill anyways.

:thumbsup:

 

[NutBucket]

OP Already has a 4-channel amp. He just has to amplify the right speakers.

 

[Joseph F]

I'f you're not interested in rattling the windows with sound then why are you getting a 100W Subwoofer?

 

[0roo0roo]

I'f you're not interested in rattling the windows with sound then why are you getting a 100W Subwoofer?

that isn't so much, and you can set the amount of bass, like it or not you aren't going to get smooth bass from even 6x9 interior speakers, you need the subwoofer to fill in the low end. if set right you will have decent sound without rattling the windows as you say.

 

[QueBert]

I'f you're not interested in rattling the windows with sound then why are you getting a 100W Subwoofer?

Can you even get anything lower? An entry level $79 10" Kicker sub at Best Buy will be rated at 375watts.

 

[deadken]

Thanks for all of the replies and information. I was typing a reply last night when the power went out and I lost everything.

I wasn't very clear about my planned layout in my first post, because I haven't yet decided on what the final layout will be. In my 1988 Jetta there are 3.5" speakers in the dashboard. There were also 4" speakers in the rear deck (now replaced by 6.5"). As an option, you could have gotten the 'Aktiv' sound system (which had some weak in-line amplifiers for the front door speakers). The Aktiv setup used 5.25" speakers in the front doors. I just ordered a set of speaker grills that will fit my front door panels and look stock. Originally, I was thinking that I would run the rear 6.5" speakers @ 50W and bridge the other two channels to power a subwoofer in the trunk. Lately, I have been thinking of using the Head Unit to power the front 3.5" speakers in the dash, and two 50W channels from the amplifier to power 5.25" speakers in the front doors, the other two 50W channels from the amplifier to power the 6.5" speakers in the rear deck, and get a 6" or 8" Powered Bazooka tube Subwoofer (or something similar). That is why I was hoping I could bridge the HU outputs to get a bit more power to the dash 3.5" speakers.

I specifically stated that I didn't want to 'rattle and house windows as I drive down the block'. I didn't say anything about rattling my car windows . Frankly, I've never owned a car subwoofer. I am only going on a co-workers suggestions. He suggested a 200W bazooka tube. I already dropped it down to 100W from his suggestion. Couple that with the fact that every single review of the 6" 50W Bazooka tube on Amazon.com (where the reviewer stated what kind of car they used it in) said that they used the tube in a SUV, hatchback, or pick-up truck cab. I figured that in a trunk 50W might not be enough. I also figured it was probably better to get the 100W and be able to turn it down if it was too much rather then have a 50W be too weak or having to have everything on the 50W turned to Max.

Please let me know what you guys think about the layout I am planning. Also, please let me know if you think I would be better off with a different brand subwoofer.

-Thanks again for the information and suggestions so far, Ken

 

[0roo0roo]

just a matter of how inherently hostile an audio environment the average car is, esp older ones with less sound dampening. the enclosures are pointed in the wrong places, and are pretty lousy as speaker enclosures by default. so raising volume to try to get some depth/bass to your music can be unsatisfactory. you need the sub so the other speakers dont have to work as hard doing something they are pretty sh*t at.

 

[Smoove910]

I've never been a real fan of the Bazooka, or tube subs for that matter. I feel for the price the output is rather lacking. I would prefer a sub that mounts under the front seat over a tube in the trunk. Not only will the low frequency volume be louder, but you will be able to 'feel' bass a little better too.

http://underseatsubwoofer.net/