Car audio gurus

[ghost recon88]

Hey all, about to install a pair of Alpine 6.5" R component speakers in my 2 door Tahoe, installing fatmat in the doors as well when I do that. I'm looking at putting as 12" Alpine Type R sub in the back. My question is, can I go with a quality 4-channel amp and then just bridge two of the channels over to the sub, and then run each of the other two channels to the two front speakers? I see most people run a mono-amp for the sub, but I'm limited on space as to where I can put an amp so I'd prefer 1 for all 3 devices. Any recommendations? I'm looking at something like the Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000X4D.

These are the speakers I have, http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34364_Alpine-SPR-60C.html

and this is the sub I'm looking at, http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SWR-12D4-Type-R-Subwoofer-4-ohm/dp/B007XW2WTK

 

[96Firebird]

Yes, a 4-channel will work just fine. However, you likely won't find one that can output 1000WRMS bridged that the sub is asking for. Now, you don't NEED to put that much power into the sub, but I usually like to run a sub at what they are rated for.

In your case, it would probably be best to get a 2-channel for the components and a mono for the sub. If I get some free time this afternoon I'll look up some amps for you.

Did a little searching, and the Massive Audio NX3 looks like it could fit the bill well. Speakers are rated for 110WRMS @ 4ohm, amp can output 120WRMS @ 4ohm. Sub will have to be the dual 2-ohm version (SWR-12D2), so it can be wired to 1ohm. The sub is rated for 1000WRMS, amp can output 800WRMS @ 1ohm on the third channel. My roommate has a Massive Audio amp for the sub in his truck, it is a decent brand and the amp is very compact which is nice.

 

[michal1980]

Yes, a 4-channel will work just fine. However, you likely won't find one that can output 1000WRMS bridged that the sub is asking for. Now, you don't NEED to put that much power into the sub, but I usually like to run a sub at what they are rated for.

So your running your system at max volume all the time?

Otherwise your not running you sub at what its rated for.

 

[96Firebird]

So your running your system at max volume all the time?

Otherwise your not running you sub at what its rated for.

Ever run a sub with an amp that has half the rated output than the sub is rated at? It sounds underpowered and horrible.

I'm going on personal experience, feel free to give suggestions to the OP. :awe:

 

[ghost recon88]

I kindly appreciate the suggestions, 2 ohm sub is the same price as the 4, so no worries there. Any other amp suggestions?

 

[ghost recon88]

What about a high end 3 channel amp?

 

[Vdubchaos]

You have to be careful here.

Once you actually hear the system, you might find that you will want to put in another set of speakers in the back door as well.

What will you do then?

I would recommend 2 separate amps for # of reasons.

a) For sub, you can get Class D amp (most 4 channel amps are Class A/B)
b) this approach is more future proof (expendable and you can separate if needed)
c) No cost difference (in general 4 channel amps are pretty expensive when you divide the power into 2 amps and buy them separately. Wiring might make it bit more expensive with 2 amp set up though....
d) Not using full potential of 4 channels. If you get an Amp that runs 500 to 1000 RMS watts to Sub, I doubt you will use that much for the Components (so lots of untapped power sitting). Not a bad thing, but kind of a waste.

Note: you CAN add more speakers to 2 channels you use for Components BUT you have to be very careful with OHMs at that point....

Before you do ANYTHING though. Check and see how many Watts your car's alternator can actually handle. Usually it's your Alternator Amperage x 13.7 (or 14.4Volts). That gives you total Watts.

Car uses about 50% of that power. What you are left with is what you should NOT go over with RMS power.

In most cases I found that anything over 500watts RMS will require a performance alternator BUT I don't know the rating on you truck (which could be already pretty high).

500RMS amp pushing 1000RMS speaker = not a good idea

You can get a Class D amp with 500RMS for under $100 bucks. decent 4 channel amp (around 200RMS) shouldn't cost you more than 150 either....cheaper than one you are looking at.

1st thing is first, find out the amps of your alternator!!!

 

[ghost recon88]

My alternator is 140 amps

 

[DaTT]

I don't see a need for you to have a DVC sub. You can save some cash on a single voice coil.

 

[Vdubchaos]

My alternator is 140 amps

You should be good for about 1000 RMS with stock alternator (plenty of room).

 

[96Firebird]

I don't see a need for you to have a DVC sub. You can save some cash on a single voice coil.

A SVC sub does not have the wiring options that a DVC has. There really is no other difference between the two.

 

[DaTT]

A SVC sub does not have the wiring options that a DVC has. There really is no other difference between the two.

I understand this, but he only wants one sub. Wiring options are limited to stereo or mono (4ohm or 2ohm). DVC's are typically more expensive, so an SVC can save a little money with the exact same end result and without the headache of figuring out how to wire a DVC (if you are novice)

 

[basslover1]

I understand this, but he only wants one sub. Wiring options are limited to stereo or mono (4ohm or 2ohm). DVC's are typically more expensive, so an SVC can save a little money with the exact same end result and without the headache of figuring out how to wire a DVC (if you are novice)

If he only wants to run one amp at the moment, then finding one that outputs decent power @ 4ohms is going to be difficult. I say 4ohm because that's the typical impedance of SVC car audio subwoofers.

Typically there is little price difference between SVC and DVC of the same speaker, though it isn't very common to find a brand that produces SVC and DVC subwoofers that are identical, they exist but there aren't many. The only one I can think of off hand is Dayton Audio and there's only a $5 difference there.

Point is, if he likes the Alpine Type R, they only come in DVC.

 

[michal1980]

Ever run a sub with an amp that has half the rated output than the sub is rated at? It sounds underpowered and horrible.

I'm going on personal experience, feel free to give suggestions to the OP. :awe:

you don't understand electrics and ratings.

a 1000w rms rated sub means that it can handle that amount of power continually.

I doubt that most people listen to their setups full blast.

as long as you setup your amp correctly, so that you don't get clipping, you should hear no difference between the following cases:

1) 500w amp outputting 500w to a 1000w speaker,
2) 1000w amp outputting 500w to a 1000w speaker.

The speaker will not see a difference.

 

[96Firebird]

I know how they work, I've installed and had plenty of systems myself.

Face it, running a 500WRMS amp near full output will produce a bad signal. An amp rated at 1000WRMS will provide a MUCH cleaner signal at 500W, given you don't buy a shit brand.

Subs are rated for a reason. You'll be much happier running a sub at its rated power compared to an amp with a max output of half it's power rating. A 500WRMS amp won't be able to move the cone nearly as much.

When you say "full blast", are we talking volume up on the head unit? That will also cause clipping, moreso than the amp at its peak output. That is a dumb idea regardless.

I prefer to tune with a portable oscilloscope and a 60Hz test tune.

 

[DaTT]

If he only wants to run one amp at the moment, then finding one that outputs decent power @ 4ohms is going to be difficult. I say 4ohm because that's the typical impedance of SVC car audio subwoofers.

Typically there is little price difference between SVC and DVC of the same speaker, though it isn't very common to find a brand that produces SVC and DVC subwoofers that are identical, they exist but there aren't many. The only one I can think of off hand is Dayton Audio and there's only a $5 difference there.

Point is, if he likes the Alpine Type R, they only come in DVC.

For some odd reason, my mind was having a turd regarding this. My thought was bridging the single sub would drop it down to 2 ohm. That is not the case....as stated before, brain fart.