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Car Alternator Question (Update)

S

Sniper82

Lifer
UPDATE:

Took it off to have it rebuilt, got it there and it tested fine when the guy put it on the machine. Well I come back and put it on the car and it tests fine on my tester. Also the squeaking sound is gone that was almost constant(when the car idled). I even took the car and all back to the guy that rebuilds them and both the alternator and battery tests fine on his tester.

A couple days later and its doing the same thing. Not testing good on my tester and the squeaking noise is back. It is a 2000 Grand Am SE and the belt is pulled tight with a pulley so I don't think there is a way to tighten it. Also the belt doesn't look cracked or anything. What could be the problem?
 
well, does your gauge have red on it and numbers as well?

I just had to replace the one in my blazer because when I turned the a/c and had my stereo on it would go just around 9.5 or 10, when it used to run at a little under 14 with all those items on.

They usually make a whining noise too if they're going out.
 
Originally posted by: Paulson
well, does your gauge have red on it and numbers as well?

I just had to replace the one in my blazer because when I turned the a/c and had my stereo on it would go just around 9.5 or 10, when it used to run at a little under 14 with all those items on.

They usually make a whining noise too if they're going out.
Click to expand...

Sound like a belt sqeeking noise? If so the car does that almost constantly. I took it to Advanced and with the air on and headlights it showed 12.95-13.02 constantly. Would you all consider that lower. The guy said it should stay right around 14 with everything on.
 
Yup, nominal voltage at idle is around 14 volts. With a bunch of electrical accessories running it might drop to 13 or so. Anything below 13 volts is suspect.

ZV
 
it depends on how much you like your battery. at those voltages its really not getting a full charge. leaving your battery below 90% SOC for any amount of time really isn't good for it. if the battery is already 5+ years old wait until its convienent for you and replace them as a pair.
 
Keep in mind if you fully drain your battery, it might not take a charge again. Batteries don't like getting fully drained like that.
 
will the battery slowly run down? After a few stops around town yesterday the battery showed 100% on my battery charger.
 
If the belt checks ok, test the battery voltage with the engine at idle, and accessories off. It should be around 13.8 to 15 volts. Also check the battery terminal connections. If the voltage is in the proper range, turn on the headlights, to add some load. The voltage should not drop below about 12.8 to 13 volts with the engine at idle. If it does, you may have a problem with the alternator.
 
Originally posted by: 91TTZ
Keep in mind if you fully drain your battery, it might not take a charge again. Batteries don't like getting fully drained like that.
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True, unless it'a a deep cycle.

It's usually around 14...14.4 is optimal..
 
Just go to a salvage yard or buy one off of ebay... I've done both with two different vehicles and it's cheap and gets the job done.
 
Ack! Don't any of you own GM products? Check the tensioner pulley (sp?). It goes bad and squeels and whines. I'd have that checked out.
 
Originally posted by: daclayman
Ack! Don't any of you own GM products? Check the tensioner pulley (sp?). It goes bad and squeels and whines. I'd have that checked out.
Click to expand...

I know what your talking about and am wondering is it suppose to rock back and forth when the engine is running/idling? It seems to keep the belt tight but maybe not tight enough?
 
I have a 96 Blazer and a 97 Lumina... both have the tensioner pulley and neither makes that noise...

He's having problems with the alternator as well so he should just get the damn thing replaced... much simpler than trying to screw around with it.
 
Originally posted by: ^Sniper^
Originally posted by: daclayman
Ack! Don't any of you own GM products? Check the tensioner pulley (sp?). It goes bad and squeels and whines. I'd have that checked out.
Click to expand...

I know what your talking about and am wondering is it suppose to rock back and forth when the engine is running/idling? It seems to keep the belt tight but maybe not tight enough?
Click to expand...
On both the vehicles I own it rocks back and forth...

It creates enough tension but is easier on the belt I believe...

but even if it was that, how do you explain the alternator not testing out?

I still say it's a bad alternator... you can probably get one for $40 from a salvage yard or off of ebay...
 
Originally posted by: Paulson
Originally posted by: ^Sniper^
Originally posted by: daclayman
Ack! Don't any of you own GM products? Check the tensioner pulley (sp?). It goes bad and squeels and whines. I'd have that checked out.
Click to expand...

I know what your talking about and am wondering is it suppose to rock back and forth when the engine is running/idling? It seems to keep the belt tight but maybe not tight enough?
Click to expand...
On both the vehicles I own it rocks back and forth...

It creates enough tension but is easier on the belt I believe...

but even if it was that, how do you explain the alternator not testing out?

I still say it's a bad alternator... you can probably get one for $40 from a salvage yard or off of ebay...
Click to expand...


Could be but why would it test bad from the start, me take it off and the guy tests it fine on his machine and then me getting it home hooking it back up and testing fine? Then after a couple days it does it again? I am gonna drive the car over to his shop tomorrow if he is open and let him test it again and if it tests bad maybe he can look at it and tell me what the problem is. My bro inlaw is somewhat of a mechanic and said he thinks it could be the bearing in the alternator.
 
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