Canon's $40 Super-Macro Lens

996GT2

Diamond Member
Jun 23, 2005
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At first glance, the Canon 35-80mm f/4-5.6 seems like a very average lens, even when compared with other cheap kit lenses. However, if you can look past the plastic mount, slow aperture, and cheap build quality, this lens is by far the best macro lens out there for its price.

A simple modification turns this otherwise ordinary lens into a super-macro lens that works in a similar fashion to the Canon MP-E 65mm. I removed the front sticker, unscrewed 3 retaining screws, and removed the front 3 elements (the AF elements). With these elements removed, the lens is focused by either zooming it in/out or by moving the camera back/forth, just like one would do with the MP-E 65mm 1-5x macro lens. The loss of autofocus is hardly a concern for extreme macro work, since most macro shots (especially at high magnification) are manually focused. The slow aperture range of this lens isn't much of a concern either, since most macro work is done at f/8 and beyond for DoF reasons.

After the mods, I would say that this lens goes from around 1:1.5 magnification to ~2:1 life size magnification. Truly amazing results for something that you can easily get for less than $40 on eBay. Indeed, even dedicated macro lenses can't exceed 1:1 magnification without using extension tubes. And, to make the deal even sweeter, you still get full electronic metering and aperture controls just like you would with any other EF lens, so no stop-down metering is required.

Here is a shot I just took with mine (I saved it at JPEG quality 7 in Photoshop, so there may be some compression artifacts). Click on the bar to see the full-size image.

This shot was taken with the lens at 35mm focal length, which is its LOWEST magnification setting. Zooming the lens out to 80mm will allow the tip of a single ballpoint pen to fill the frame.

IMG_2606.jpg



This shot was taken with the lens at the 80mm focal length, which is its HIGHEST magnification setting without using extension tubes. As you can see, the magnification here is clearly greater than life size and details remain quite good. The biggest challenge is getting everything in to the DoF, which is quite small even when the lens is stopped down to f/16 or f/22. An off-camera flash is highly recommended for most of these shots...for this shot, I fired my 430EX at 1/2 power through a small flash reflector.

*This image was not cropped. However, Photobucket has a 1MB file limit and downsized the image slightly as a result.

IMG_2650.jpg


The macro modification works on all 3 iterations of the EF 35-80mm f/4-5.6, as well as the USM version. The modification is the same in all 4 cases. You can either opt to remove the front 3 elements and shoot the lens as-is, or remove the front 3 elements and replace the plastic front of the lens so that you can still use a lens cap or protective filter.




2/26/2010 Update: Minimum/maximum magnification ratios (based on the EOS 40D's sensor, which is 22.2mm wide):

Minimum (zoom set to 35mm): approximately 0.82x life size



Maximum (zoom set to 80mm): approximately 1.71x life size

 
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996GT2

Diamond Member
Jun 23, 2005
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Added high magnification sample pic

Any equivalent lenses/mods for us Nikon users? That's an absolute STEAL!

I have not heard of similar lenses for Nikon, but what you could do is buy a Canon adaptor and use the EF 35-80mm on your Nikon. You'll lose infinity focus, but I don't think infinity focus is very important in a macro application to begin with ;)
 
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ElFenix

Elite Member
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Mar 20, 2000
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do you have the I, II, or III version? or does it matter?

edit: on potn you have the III
 
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Lemon law

Lifer
Nov 6, 2005
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The criteria with macro lens are sometimes also in how far away you can focus on something and get a one to one macro. And when we are talking about stalking the mighty insect, not having to jam the lens within a few inches is a big plus.

So OP, can you tell us, at maximum 80mm focal length or alternately a 1:1 Macro point,
how far the lens is from the subject.
 

Aharami

Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
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The criteria with macro lens are sometimes also in how far away you can focus on something and get a one to one macro. And when we are talking about stalking the mighty insect, not having to jam the lens within a few inches is a big plus.

So OP, can you tell us, at maximum 80mm focal length or alternately a 1:1 Macro point,
how far the lens is from the subject.

that is a very good point. curious to know as well
 

Flipped Gazelle

Diamond Member
Sep 5, 2004
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Any equivalent lenses/mods for us Nikon users? That's an absolute STEAL!

Similar surgery should be possible on any # of lenses for Nikon. I know of several Pentax uses who have performed 996GT2's procedure on lenses, with similar success.
 

996GT2

Diamond Member
Jun 23, 2005
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Sponge @ around 2x life size:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/morganyang/4366520901/in/photostream/


As far as working distances go, you have about 2 inches from the front of the lens at any magnification setting. Not the best working distance, but if you want more you can put back one of the 3 elements that were removed to get about 5-7 inches of working distance with a slightly lower maximum magnification.
 

rudder

Lifer
Nov 9, 2000
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fellow forum users.... this is horrible advice! I would advise against doing this modification you will waste your money.

well not really... but by the time you figure out this is a sweet deal, I will have already found one in stock.
 

jpeyton

Moderator in SFF, Notebooks, Pre-Built/Barebones
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Aug 23, 2003
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can anyone find any info for doing this with a nikon lens?
Buy a cheap older Nikon manual focus prime lens (50mm, 35mm, 28mm) and a reversing ring. Hacking yourself a cheap 1:1 macro setup isn't hard for any brand of camera. Just beware of the usual limitations: manual focus (typically by moving the camera back/forth), very short working distance, you need to stop down the lens quite a bit to get decent depth-of-field, and the whole process almost necessitates a tripod or set of macro-focusing rails.

If you want a point-and-click macro setup, you're still better off with a macro lens.
 

996GT2

Diamond Member
Jun 23, 2005
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If you want a point-and-click macro setup, you're still better off with a macro lens.

A dedicated macro lens doesn't exactly give a "point and click" macro setup though. The close-focus nature of macro photography means most shots are taken at apertures smaller than f/8 or f/11 for sufficient depth of field, so a tripod or off-camera flash is required to sufficiently light the subject. Back when I had a Tamron 90mm 1:1 macro, taking close-up shots still required many of the same procedures as the modified 35-80mm. The only differences were that the Tamron had a tad more working distance and maxed out at 1:1, whereas the modified Canon 35-80 gets to beyond 2:1 without any extension tubes.
 

extra

Golden Member
Dec 18, 1999
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Or hit up deal extreme for $9 extension tubes and voila . . lol... but yeah, that mod is one of the more well known examples, it's pretty cool.
 

Lemon law

Lifer
Nov 6, 2005
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Or hit up deal extreme for $9 extension tubes and voila . . lol... but yeah, that mod is one of the more well known examples, it's pretty cool.
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But it somewhat misses the point, with cheap extension tubes you lose both auto focus and all electronic communications with the camera, but with the 996gt2 mod, the only thing lost is auto focus. But some automatic aperture and shutter speed is retained.
 

996GT2

Diamond Member
Jun 23, 2005
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But it somewhat misses the point, with cheap extension tubes you lose both auto focus and all electronic communications with the camera, but with the 996gt2 mod, the only thing lost is auto focus. But some automatic aperture and shutter speed is retained.

Yep. Losing automatic aperture=stop down metering. Which really SUCKS when trying to do macro work since the viewfinder gets very, very dark at the actual aperture the image is taken at. Which means by the time you've focused and stopped down the lens to meter, you can see hardly anything in the viewfinder.
 

angry hampster

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Dec 15, 2007
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www.lexaphoto.com
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But it somewhat misses the point, with cheap extension tubes you lose both auto focus and all electronic communications with the camera, but with the 996gt2 mod, the only thing lost is auto focus. But some automatic aperture and shutter speed is retained.



My $100 extension tubes allow aperture control and metering as well as autofocus?
 

Flipped Gazelle

Diamond Member
Sep 5, 2004
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Yep. Losing automatic aperture=stop down metering. Which really SUCKS when trying to do macro work since the viewfinder gets very, very dark at the actual aperture the image is taken at. Which means by the time you've focused and stopped down the lens to meter, you can see hardly anything in the viewfinder.

Can you expand on that? I think I'm missing something...

With my Pentax M 50 lens, which is entirely manual, the viewfinder image is still quite bright even when stopped down to f/22.
 

996GT2

Diamond Member
Jun 23, 2005
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Can you expand on that? I think I'm missing something...

With my Pentax M 50 lens, which is entirely manual, the viewfinder image is still quite bright even when stopped down to f/22.

Most lenses made within the last 30-40 years (even manual focus ones) maintain automatic aperture, meaning that the aperture stays at f/2 (or whatever the max aperture is) until a moment before the shutter opens. Then the aperture lever stops down the aperture for proper exposure. This is sometimes true even when using old lenses on modern DSLRs...for example, the Nikon D300 can offer auto-aperture in A and M modes with most older Nikkor manual focus lenses.

If you lose all contact with the lens (whether it be mechanical or electronic), the lens will not stop down by itself before the exposure and you must stop it down to meter.

Try this on your DSLR: set a lens to f/22 and press the DoF preview button. That's how dark the viewfinder looks at f/22. It's even a bit darker for macro b/c of the close subject distance reducing the effective aperture of the lens.
 
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