Canon Thread: Little known lenses that kick butt

[rudder]

Thanks to 996GT2 pointing out the Canon 35-85mm macro conversion for around $40. And of course we are all familiar with the nifty fifty. I found another gem, a little more at around $220.. but I think it smokes the Canon 85mm f/1.8 (around $330) and the Canon f/1.2 II (hella expensive). I currently own the f/1.8 and used to own the f/1.2. I always regretted selling it because it took awesome photos and sharp at f/1.2... but at $1400 I was afraid to take it outside.

So I found a Rokinin 85mm f/1.4. It is a lens made in Korea that is branded with a lot of different names. It is full manual... but it falls in the awesome bang for the buck category.


This was taken at f/1.4, nothing done to the photo other than resizing them. The crop was from the original sized jpeg.

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/rudder/85mm_artmachine.jpg

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/rudder/85mm_artmachine_crop.jpg


Again at f/1.4... handheld @ 1/30th s.


http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/rudder/bball.jpg

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/rudder/bball_crop.jpg

Nice bokeh.

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/rudder/85mm_flowers.jpg

I kept my f/1.8 primarily for indoor sports... but even that the autofocus is not fast enough. I found the rokinin to be sharper when I need it. With the f/1.8 I ended up focusing manually anyway... so no loss there. If you get a chance, check out this lens.

 

[Aharami]

nice pic, that last one!

 

[speedy2]

Here's one.....

Canon 35-80mm. Super easy to mod. The only way to focus is by manually moving back and forth from the subject. Also, don't try this indoors. The DOF is so thin even at F22 that its crazy. Unless you have a tripod, and I'd still use a tripod in the sun. Shots I took are hand held though.

I'm doing this at work, so watch/jewelry tools really come in handy.

Lens Untouched.....

Remove the sticker.....

Remove the 3 screws....

Front comes right off....

Any way you decide to remove the glass off the front is your choice. I used a flex shaft with a cutting wheel.

Front back on with elements removed....

Install UV filter to keep dust out.....

Resized RAW conversions. No other PP

This flower is about the diameter of your pinky nail.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/speedy_2/IMG_0219.jpg

By the way, I got this lens for $25 used.

 

[randomlinh]

The Samyang/Rokinon is definitely well liked. They have a 14/2.8 as well.

I thought about getting one, but figured I'd save my money, the 85/1.8 works well for me, and with FF, I've gone into the deep end with a 135L.

But regarding the 85 focusing.. not fast enough, really? I love it, I think I'd say it's the fastest of what I have.

 

[Maximus96]

rokinon is good deal if you're good with manual focusing...i'm not and have to rely on auto...my problem is what looks like in-focus to me in the viewfinder are not really so when i zoom to 100%

 

[996GT2]

Get a canon -S focusing screen or a split-prism screen. Both make manual focusing much easier with fast lenses. The trade-off is a slight darkening of the viewfinder with lenses f/2.8 and slower...but it's only about 10% darker.

 

[996GT2]

Also...another bargain of a lens:

Canon EF 70-210mm f/3.5-4.5 Ultrasonic

The key features:

-Relatively fast aperture range
-True ring ultrasonic motor with full time manual override (lightning fast AF)

-Can be had for ~$150 on eBay

The newer 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS is of course better for use in lower light, but the 70-210 is a much better choice for shooting sports or fast action in daylight.

 

[rudder]

rokinon is good deal if you're good with manual focusing...i'm not and have to rely on auto...my problem is what looks like in-focus to me in the viewfinder are not really so when i zoom to 100%

Yeh I suck with manual focus. But after 2 days of shooting with this lens... I am much improved.

Get a canon -S focusing screen or a split-prism screen. Both make manual focusing much easier with fast lenses. The trade-off is a slight darkening of the viewfinder with lenses f/2.8 and slower...but it's only about 10% darker.

I though about that. First I am trying a Nikon DK-17M eye piece. This will give the viewfinder a 1.3X magnification. Supposedly your not supposed to lost much in the FOV... so we will see (on my DK-22 adapter arrives).

But regarding the 85 focusing.. not fast enough, really? I love it, I think I'd say it's the fastest of what I have.

For some reason I have trouble keeping up with indoor basketball action. Some newer gyms are okay... but I shot recently in one that had the mercury vapor lamps... and had a lot of OOF shots. I ended up using manual focus, picking a spot, and waiting for the action.

 

[996GT2]

For some reason I have trouble keeping up with indoor basketball action. Some newer gyms are okay... but I shot recently in one that had the mercury vapor lamps... and had a lot of OOF shots. I ended up using manual focus, picking a spot, and waiting for the action.

What camera body? If you have a Rebel or even an earlier XXD series body, the AF system isn't exactly top-notch...

 

[rudder]

What camera body? If you have a Rebel or even an earlier XXD series body, the AF system isn't exactly top-notch...

Original 5D.

 

[Maximus96]

the center point on the 5D is good, the outer ones are all crap except in bright light.

 

[996GT2]

Original 5D.

The center AF point on the 5D and 5D2 is a f/5.6 cross point, but it has 6 invisible (non-selectable) assist points. That makes it it more accurate and well suited to AI-Servo tracking. However, all the other AF points (the 8 other visible ones) are non-cross type, meaning they can only detect contrast in one direction (either horizontal or vertical, but not both). Most of the outer AF points on the 5D are laid out vertically, which means that they are insensitive to vertical contrast (for example, a vertical line in a room). If you rotate the camera into a portrait orientation, then 6 of the 8 outer points would be sensitive to vertical contrast, but not horizontal contrast.

If you are using AI-Servo, try locking the AF to the center point. The 6 invisible assist points should help the camera track in AI-servo mode.

Above is the AF point layout for the 5D. You can see that the outer 8 AF points are only sensitive in one axis.