I'd like to start a project but would like some advice on it, AT is generally the only place I look to for advice, but I think for this I'd like to have the depth of knowledge for something specific that a woodworking forum can offer vs AT's very broad base of knowledge but sometimes lacking in depth!
Can someone recommend me a woodworking forum?
- Thread starter momeNt
- Start date
highland145
Lifer
- Oct 12, 2009
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You can sign up for a free 14 day trial:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/member
There is an incredible wealth of information. If you are serious about it, the membership will be well worth the price.
Edit: And the magazine is worthwhile as well
http://www.finewoodworking.com/member
There is an incredible wealth of information. If you are serious about it, the membership will be well worth the price.
Edit: And the magazine is worthwhile as well
cheezy321
Diamond Member
- Dec 31, 2003
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Not sure what type of project you are looking to start but I have found great plans and tutorials at Ana White's facebook page and website.
FB: https://www.facebook.com/knockoffwood
Web: http://ana-white.com/
FB: https://www.facebook.com/knockoffwood
Web: http://ana-white.com/
I think I'd like to build a table. Something between 6-8ft long and unsure of width, whatever is typical probably.
Websites like ana-white.com I believe are giving unclear information of what goes into properly building a DIY table, by not explaining the role of moisture content in construction lumber, and ignoring the risk that screwing legs into your table top does not allow for seasonal expansion and contraction.
So i'd like to go more in depth than just a 6 hour weekend project, but build something that can last for a long time.
I'm either doing a simple trestle table
Or a farmhouse table
I'd like opinions on lumber for the project.
I believe I'd like to go hardwood for the table top. I would be edge-gluing my table top and planing/sanding smooth, so I would need a wood that is furniture grade for this, or can construction lumber pine/whitewood be sufficiently planed to uniformity that I can safely edge glue this for a table top? I would need to check all my lumber for face-checking as construction lumber is kiln dried very fast which can stress the wood out.
I will be doing mortise and tenon joints for the breadboard ends, middle one glued, the rest will be installed with dowels that are slotted so that the breadboard does not constrain the expansion/contraction of the tabletop.
My main concern is attaching the table top to the legs, I am reading that a sliding dovetail is the best way to do this, it will allow the table top to expand, is removeable, and requires no glue, screws, nails, etc. I read also that people use buttons and slotted holes to connect the top, or figure 8s.
Buttons
Figure 8s
Figure 8s seem too cheap for a nice table that is the centerpiece of a room, maybe for a coffee table or side table you don't want to spend an entire weekend on fastening the top to the legs.
Buttons might be okay especially because if I do a farmhouse style table I don't know how a sliding dovetail would end up working.
Shower me with your knowledge!
What looked like a great subject headline about sliding dovetails was behind the membership wall. I really want to read that one article!
As far as tools that pertain to this job, I only own a drill for dowels (would buy a dowel jig to get perpendicular dowel holes), a circular saw (was planning on building a rip fence for this). And a random orbit 5" sander.
I'll probably buy a router and a hand planer. Also will buy pipe clamps which are relatively cheap, and very useful.
I have access to if need be, radial arm saw, table saw, miter chop saw, belt sander. Essentially everything but high end woodworking industrial tools like a jointer, mortiser, things like that.
edit:
As for the farmhouse suggestion, I think my GF also prefers the farmhouse style, but I would like to construct it without screws if possible, just mortise and tenon joints, dowels, and wood glue. Certainly no visible screws like the ones you can see in the picture, also not interested in plugging what would otherwise be visible screw holes. I'd like to take time on my joints, not take time covering up thrown together joints.
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highland145
Lifer
- Oct 12, 2009
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New Yankee workshop videos. I believe he's made a farm table.
I've made several farm tables and an "island table" ~44" high, 18" wide, 5' long. Had to fit in the space my sis in law had. Used old reclaimed lumber, heart pine. Hard stuff. Wouldn't go with whiteboard...too soft. I squared the edges on the joiner and gorilla glue/clamped them. Hand planed the tops because that was the look I was going for.
+1 for the breadboard end. Curious about food in the joints and/or if you finish with poly, what's going to happens to the joint when it moves? What about a penetrating sealer and then a nice coat of paste wax? Getting a mortising machine for Christmas. Otherwise I'd use a router/table.
Table+top: Used a skirt board with the "buttons" you've shown. Skirt boards mortised into the legs. Ordered the legs from here.
I've made several farm tables and an "island table" ~44" high, 18" wide, 5' long. Had to fit in the space my sis in law had. Used old reclaimed lumber, heart pine. Hard stuff. Wouldn't go with whiteboard...too soft. I squared the edges on the joiner and gorilla glue/clamped them. Hand planed the tops because that was the look I was going for.
+1 for the breadboard end. Curious about food in the joints and/or if you finish with poly, what's going to happens to the joint when it moves? What about a penetrating sealer and then a nice coat of paste wax? Getting a mortising machine for Christmas. Otherwise I'd use a router/table.
Table+top: Used a skirt board with the "buttons" you've shown. Skirt boards mortised into the legs. Ordered the legs from here.
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JM Aggie08
Diamond Member
- Jan 3, 2006
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Breadboard comments. I think the gf wants a painted table, unless the paint is intentionally distressed/antiqued, it will show cracks. I need to ask her what look she was going for. I don't want something that will look bad after a season.
Do you have any experience with sliding dovetail tabletop connections? I think farmhouse table with a buttoned skirt/apron is very common for that type of table. My only reasons for considering for the trestle table is that it would be less wood overall, and the stretcher can be wedged in with no glue, so the top, legs, and stretcher can be disassembled for extremely easy transportation. My worry is doing trestle legs that are too simple might make it look a lot more amateur, whereas it would actually be the norm for a farmhouse.
Woodworking forum and woodworking for'em are two different things. Depending on how gentle you are I may still have an interest in taking you up on that.
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/
He actually did a table similar to what you want, and has free videos up for them:
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/the-not-so-rustic-rustic-outdoor-table/
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/the-not-so-rustic-rustic-outdoor-table-part-2/
Also saw this a few weeks back:
http://www.artofmanliness.com/2011/10/27/make-a-dining-room-table-by-thanksgiving/
He actually did a table similar to what you want, and has free videos up for them:
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/the-not-so-rustic-rustic-outdoor-table/
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/the-not-so-rustic-rustic-outdoor-table-part-2/
Also saw this a few weeks back:
http://www.artofmanliness.com/2011/10/27/make-a-dining-room-table-by-thanksgiving/
Thanks for this. I'll definitely watch when I get him.
I watched his trestle table video, which was gorgeous. He has an amazing looking tool shop too.
Except he used screws to attach the table top to the trestles, I'm assuming they were slotted or something to allow for expansion/contraction, but up until then it was put together with a lot of thought and care, and then he just screwed the damn top on. It came up in a search for "trestle table top sliding dovetail" but I realized it was in the comments that someone mentioned the dovetail.
edit: after quickly browsing the two pages. This is a really good source for a farmhouse table. I will have to watch later to see what he didn't include in the short written sections.
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highland145
Lifer
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Not sure how you'd use a sliding dovetail to attach the top to the base on a farm table.
The "buttons" would be easier and work.
I did use it to join the 4 sides of box some years back.....no idea why I did it that way. Used a straight cutting bit to take out most of the material on the slot and then the dove tail bit.
Painted...why bother. Painted finish grade plywood with a veneer edge.
Finish carpenter I know installed oak stairs...treads, risers, balusters, rails...for a client. And she had them painted white.....WTH? He was paid well but still wasn't happy.
The "buttons" would be easier and work.
I did use it to join the 4 sides of box some years back.....no idea why I did it that way. Used a straight cutting bit to take out most of the material on the slot and then the dove tail bit.
Painted...why bother. Painted finish grade plywood with a veneer edge.
Finish carpenter I know installed oak stairs...treads, risers, balusters, rails...for a client. And she had them painted white.....WTH? He was paid well but still wasn't happy.
Not sure how you'd use a sliding dovetail to attach the top to the base on a farm table.
The "buttons" would be easier and work.
I did use it to join the 4 sides of box some years back.....no idea why I did it that way. Used a straight cutting bit to take out most of the material on the slot and then the dove tail bit.
Painted...why bother. Painted finish grade plywood with a veneer edge.
Finish carpenter I know installed oak stairs...treads, risers, balusters, rails...for a client. And she had them painted white.....WTH? He was paid well but still wasn't happy.
The only way I can envision the sliding dovetails working is let's say on the short sides of your table the dovetails are actually standing out above the rest of your skirt. So when you slide your table top onto the dovetails, it becomes flush with the rest of your skirt.
edit: as to the painted comment, yea you are right, and it would require a lot less work on the table top. I basically only have to work on constructing the legs. Would definitely just button the top up then no need for anything fancy like dovetails.
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highland145
Lifer
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Never heard of it but it should work and be extra work to make. If you want one that will break down, go with the trestle.
Thanks for your help. Saved me awkward icebreakers on a new forum and I think I'm armed with enough knowledge to move forward on the table type. I'll talk it out with gf and I'll begin moving forward on material planning.
JManInPhoenix
Golden Member
- Sep 25, 2013
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highland145
Lifer
- Oct 12, 2009
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I know enough to get by. Others here and the specific sites and much, much more knowledgeable.
What ever happened to Marlin 1975? IIRC, he was knowledgeable.
Edit:
Last Activity: 08-03-2011 08:37 PM
Last edited:
alkemyst
No Lifer
- Feb 13, 2001
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alkemyst
No Lifer
- Feb 13, 2001
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Sliding dovetail is a type of joint, not something that slides in and out like a keyboard tray or drawer.
Virtually all finely crafted trestle tables will have sliding dovetails for the table top / trestle connection.
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