Can I correct old, somewhat congealed Flecto Varathane by adding solvent?

[Muse]

I have a gallon can of Flecto Varathane (a kind of super-thin penetrating varnish, oil based) about 35% full, went to use it today. I rarely open the can, maybe every few years. I wanted to put a protective coat on a steel fixture that was rusty. I sanded the rust off the metal with extremely fine wet-dry sandpaper, dried it, opened the can and realized that the Varathane had congealed quite a lot, had the consistency of a thin jelly almost. Could I add a solvent to get it reasonably functional again, say Naptha or paint thinner or other mineral spirits?

Also, if you have other ideas on how I can give the metal a protective coat so it doesn't rust, I'd like to hear them. It's a round decorative raised washer-like item with a hole in the middle that goes under one of the knobs on the front of my old O'Keefe and Merritt gas stove, which has others I'd like to spruce up in such a way that I don't have to mess with them every so often (which is a lot of work).

 

[bbhaag]

I'm sure it is possible but I have to ask. Why take the chance? Why not just head down to the local hardware store and buy a new can? While you are their maybe ask about a better sealer for bare metal surfaces.

 

[Muse]

I'm sure it is possible but I have to ask. Why take the chance? Why not just head down to the local hardware store and buy a new can? While you are their maybe ask about a better sealer for bare metal surfaces.

Yeah, I guess. I did finish that one (of about 6) with the unthinned stuff. Pretty goopy and I couldn't get it evenly applied, not even close. It took maybe a couple days to dry but it actually looks pretty good and the surface seems completely dry.

Not sure they still make this stuff. I heard that Rustoleum bought them. Not sure it would be the same. I hear that there's better stuff out there, but that is probably referencing its no build-up penetrating varnish-like usage on well-sanded wood. That's what I usually use it for, but in this case (as I said) I want to give polished steel a rust proofing and couldn't think of any other approach. I certainly don't want to try to coat them with oil. That would be messy, and temporary at best.

 

[PottedMeat]

Also, if you have other ideas on how I can give the metal a protective coat so it doesn't rust, I'd like to hear them. It's a round decorative raised washer-like item with a hole in the middle that goes under one of the knobs on the front of my old O'Keefe and Merritt gas stove, which has others I'd like to spruce up in such a way that I don't have to mess with them every so often (which is a lot of work).

try out Penetrol (it's ~$10/quart @ home depot). i used it on a de rusted machinist toolbox and after a few days of drying the finish is pretty good.

 

[Muse]

Yeah, thanks, that Penetrol looks like a good solution.

I'm going to have to sand out the rust (various grades of wet/dry) on the other pieces before applying whatever I put on there. It's a fair amount of work because of the shape of the metal and the amount of rust. Just cleaning up the one piece I coated was a job and I didn't get it anywhere near perfect.

 

[Muse]

try out Penetrol (it's ~$10/quart @ home depot). i used it on a de rusted machinist toolbox and after a few days of drying the finish is pretty good.

I just realized I have an unopened quart of Penetrol! I bought it for a refinishing project a few years ago. Yeah, your mention of it rung a bell. Also have an unused pint of Japan Drier. Seems to me that would be similar to naphtha as a volatile solvent. Now I'm going to comb my data in an endeavor to find what I had planned for those items.

Edit: Ah, found it. It was a post at newsgroup alt.home.repair (that place used to be fabulous):

>I have a lot of exterior wood that's been neglected. Window sills and
>frames, etc. Some of the wood is somewhat punky but mostly it seems
>solid. Even the stuff that seems sound is, in places, weathered due to
>exposure from peeled paint. Cracks, some small gouges, general rippling
>in places. Is it OK to use Bondo on this? Is an exterior putty a better
>idea? Or am I better off biting the bullet and using the two part
>epoxies formulated for wood (e.g. P.C. Woody or Abatron formulas)?
>
>I plan on using Zinsser oil based primer and Benjamin Moore exterior
>acrylic once I get the wood prepared.

I would sand all the exposed wood to remove loose and deteriorated wood fibers.
Treat punky spots with applications of Penetrol (straight from the can). Apply
a penetrating oil base sealer/primer to all the wood and here is an excellent
formula for my favorite primer:

1). 75% Zinsser's Cover Stain or Pratt & Lambert Suprime.
2). 15% Flood's Penetrol.
3). 10% Naphtha.
4). Add Japan drier (at one ounce per quart).
5). Tint to tonal range of topcoat

Sand again when finished with the primer and you are ready to topcoat with
solid color stain or paint.