stay away from frontpage
dreamweaver is great.
i cant remember the price.
personaly, i also LOVE flash.
when done right, they make some of the nicest sites on the web.
pick up a couple of books.
personaly, i liked : Web Pages that Suck by: vincent flanders & michael willis
you basicaly learn about gd design by studying crap design...
its not too long of a read either.
also, i learn a lot by visiting other sites, and gathering information and ideas. when you see a site you love, theres no better way to learn than see if you can create something similar from scratch. i dont mean go copy it, but learn from the gd stuff, or learn wut not to do from the sucky stuff