Can any ole roofer install a skylight?

[paperfist]

I'm thinking of having one installed. Yes, I know eventually that it will leak.

I need to get more head space on a second floor for a shower. The dormer route is an option, but then there goes all my expensive spray foam insulation. The skylight built on a curb would give me the headroom I need without modifying the whole roof.

The only problem the closest certified installer for the Wasco skylight is too far and he won't come out. So not sure what to look for in a contractor.

 

[Greenman]

A properly installed skylight should never leak until the roof fails. You'll probably a carpenter to frame it and a roofer to do the roof repairs.

 

[monkeydelmagico]

The only PITA in installing a skylight is having to clear and replace so much of the existing shingles. It's easiest to do at the same time as replacing all your shingles anyways.

 

[WilliamM2]

Every skylight I have seen eventually leaks. Don't bother.

As far as if any old roofer can install it, I've seen many roofers who can't even do a decent job of installing a roof.

 

[paperfist]

The only PITA in installing a skylight is having to clear and replace so much of the existing shingles. It's easiest to do at the same time as replacing all your shingles anyways.

I'm sure they are faded by now, but I bought extra singles when I had my roof redone.

 

[paperfist]

Every skylight I have seen eventually leaks. Don't bother.

As far as if any old roofer can install it, I've seen many roofers who can't even do a decent job of installing a roof.

Well like I said, I know it will leak eventually. To dormer it I have to eat the expense of redoing a lot of spray foam.

I know you can cut out the part you want to dormer and lift it, but I haven't found any contractors who would do that.

 

[Greenman]

Every skylight I have seen eventually leaks. Don't bother.

As far as if any old roofer can install it, I've seen many roofers who can't even do a decent job of installing a roof.

I've never had a skylight leak, and I've installed dozens of them.

 

[paperfist]

I've never had a skylight leak, and I've installed dozens of them.

When can I schedule you?

 

[Greenman]

Next October should work.

 

[mindless1]

Maybe this?

https://www.homeadvisor.com/task.Skylight-Install.40152.html

 

[paperfist]

Next October should work.

Ok I put it marker so you have to show up now

Is it too late to do this now with snow on the roof?

 

[paperfist]

Maybe this?

https://www.homeadvisor.com/task.Skylight-Install.40152.html

Thanks it can't hurt to try.

 

[monkeydelmagico]

Is it too late to do this now with snow on the roof?

Not ideal. Aside from the obvious safety concerns shingles have tar strips. Solar heat generally bonds them. Not sure how well that will work in the winter. Might be able to overcome with burner torch. By the same token the bonding agent you will be using to set the sky light likely has a temperature range. I doubt, with snow on the roof, it is within the ideal range.

For something that is a want versus need it seems silly to force the issue.

I am not a roofer, but have done both roofing and installed a few skylights. Hate it. I call a professional always now.

 

[Greenman]

Ok I put it marker so you have to show up now

Is it too late to do this now with snow on the roof?

I don't know. The only time I ever see snow is through the lodge window.

 

[Humpy]

I'm picturing a massive amount of condensation dripping off the skylight in the winter.

Depending on the structure I'd consider dropping the shower floor to gain headroom.

 

[paperfist]

It's turning into the driveway thread. I cannot be deterred

Can't drop the floor cause it's the 2nd floor so would lose headroom on first level.

 

[lxskllr]

How about a nice claw foot bathtub instead? :^P

Seriously though, bathtubs are nice. I used one for several years in my first apt. I miss that tub.

 

[crashtech]

Screwing with a roof in winter is not advisable.

 

[Humpy]

It's turning into the driveway thread. I cannot be deterred

Can't drop the floor cause it's the 2nd floor so would lose headroom on first level.

Haha. That's the spirit! It's winter in half the world right now and construction projects must go on. Tarps, heaters and a good contractor will get it done.

Using steel you could probably drop the floor 6" without impacting the first floor. Still have to get a drain in there though. Just a thought. It saves cutting a hole in your roof and creating a cold spot.

 

[jmagg]

An exhaust fan inside the skylight coffer is the only way to keep the condensation to a minimum.

 

[paperfist]

How about a nice claw foot bathtub instead? :^P

Seriously though, bathtubs are nice. I used one for several years in my first apt. I miss that tub.

Lol that'll get my first floor renovations in gear when the tub ends up on the first floor.

Screwing with a roof in winter is not advisable.

Yeah I think I'm going to place it on hold. Before I spray foamed the heat loss would melt all the snow, but now it snowed early and often and there's a fair amount up there.

Haha. That's the spirit! It's winter in half the world right now and construction projects must go on. Tarps, heaters and a good contractor will get it done.

Using steel you could probably drop the floor 6" without impacting the first floor. Still have to get a drain in there though. Just a thought. It saves cutting a hole in your roof and creating a cold spot.

You know the whole problem stems from the tub only landing on 2 floor joists if I place it one way. If I place it the opposite way it lands on 6 or so but I lose headroom.

I was actually just thinking about sistering in some steel on the 2 joists to strengthen them. I'll have to talk to an engineer. If I could do that I wouldn't even need roof modifications.
.

 

[Greenman]

Lol that'll get my first floor renovations in gear when the tub ends up on the first floor.



Yeah I think I'm going to place it on hold. Before I spray foamed the heat loss would melt all the snow, but now it snowed early and often and there's a fair amount up there.



You know the whole problem stems from the tub only landing on 2 floor joists if I place it one way. If I place it the opposite way it lands on 6 or so but I lose headroom.

I was actually just thinking about sistering in some steel on the 2 joists to strengthen them. I'll have to talk to an engineer. If I could do that I wouldn't even need roof modifications.
.

LVL is your friend.
https://www.buildgp.com/engineered-lumber

 

[paperfist]

Haha. That's the spirit! It's winter in half the world right now and construction projects must go on. Tarps, heaters and a good contractor will get it done.

Using steel you could probably drop the floor 6" without impacting the first floor. Still have to get a drain in there though. Just a thought. It saves cutting a hole in your roof and creating a cold spot.

LVL is your friend.
https://www.buildgp.com/engineered-lumber

Are they really that much stronger considering they are just glued plies?

It's a 10' span and the tub would be close to the center beam which also ties into the basement center beam.

 

[Greenman]

Are they really that much stronger considering they are just glued plies?

It's a 10' span and the tub would be close to the center beam which also ties into the basement center beam.

It's pretty amazing stuff, way stronger than lumber. Engineers like it because it's performance is completely predictable, I like it because it's always straight.

There is a beam and joist load analysis tool available for free from the manufacture. It takes a little knowledge to figure out how to use it, but it will tell you what works. You'll have to figure out how much water the tub holds, and what it would weigh with the water and a fat guy sitting in it. At a guess, it will be under 50 pounds per square foot. If there is only 2 joists under the tub, you could get away with using half the weight for each joist and call it a centered point load. The joist will be larger than they would be for a distributed load, but it might be easier to figure out.

 

[paperfist]

It's pretty amazing stuff, way stronger than lumber. Engineers like it because it's performance is completely predictable, I like it because it's always straight.

There is a beam and joist load analysis tool available for free from the manufacture. It takes a little knowledge to figure out how to use it, but it will tell you what works. You'll have to figure out how much water the tub holds, and what it would weigh with the water and a fat guy sitting in it. At a guess, it will be under 50 pounds per square foot. If there is only 2 joists under the tub, you could get away with using half the weight for each joist and call it a centered point load. The joist will be larger than they would be for a distributed load, but it might be easier to figure out.

Wait, how did you know I was fat?