http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor
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My suspicions were correct in thinking that a non heated O2 sensor would fail earlier than a heated one simply because they get covered in carbon soot, usually because of a cold startup initiating a rich condition until it goes out of open loop and into closed loop. So I was wondering, is it possible to "upgrade" a car to a heated O2 sensor?
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:Sensor failures
Normally, the lifetime of an unheated sensor is about 30,000 to 50,000 miles. Heated sensor lifetime is typically 100,000 miles. Failure of an unheated sensor is usually caused by the buildup of soot on the ceramic element, which lengthens its response time and may cause total loss of ability to sense oxygen. For heated sensors, normal deposits are burned off during operation and failure occurs due to catalyst depletion, similar to the reason a battery stops producing current. The probe then tends to report lean mixture, the ECU enriches the mixture, the exhaust gets rich with carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons, and the mileage worsens.
Leaded gasoline contaminates the oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. Most oxygen sensors are rated for some service life in the presence of leaded gasoline but sensor life will be shortened to as little as 15,000 miles depending on the lead concentration. Lead-damaged sensors typically have their tips discolored light rusty.
Another common cause of premature failure of lambda probes is contamination of fuel with silicones (used in some sealings and greases) or silicates (used as corrosion inhibitors in some antifreezes). In this case, the deposits on the sensor are colored between shiny white and grainy light gray.
Leaks of oil into the engine may cover the probe tip with an oily black deposit, with associated loss of response.
An overly rich mixture causes buildup of black powdery deposit on the probe. This may be caused by failure of the probe itself, or by a problem elsewhere in the fuel rationing system.
Applying an external voltage to the zirconia sensors, e.g. by checking them with some types of ohmmeter, may damage them. [1]"
My suspicions were correct in thinking that a non heated O2 sensor would fail earlier than a heated one simply because they get covered in carbon soot, usually because of a cold startup initiating a rich condition until it goes out of open loop and into closed loop. So I was wondering, is it possible to "upgrade" a car to a heated O2 sensor?