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Cam shaft position sensor locatoin

H

Hellotalkie

Golden Member
I have a 2004 Elantra (XD) GT with a 2.0L Beta II engine.

I went to replace the CSPS (engine code p0340) today but may have mistook it for the crank shaft position sensor.

Could someone help me locating a cam shaft position sensor on my engine?

The sensor that I replaced looked exactly the same as the new one (behind the head of the engine), but I cannot find the exact location via google. Also a crankshaft position sensor looks exactly the same as a cam shaft sensor.


I don't know much about cars so sorry for the noobness.
 
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A code P0340 could mean one or more of the following has happened:

a wire or connector in the circuit could be grounded/shorted/broken
the camshaft position sensor may have failed
the PCM may have failed
there exists an open circuit
the crankshaft position sensor may have failed
 
Quick answer: a camshaft position sensor will be ABOVE the line where the engine head meets the block.

A crankshaft position sensor will be BELOW the line where the head attaches to the block.

You can tell where the line is, it's where your head gasket goes. Usually, a camshaft PS is in the same plane as your valve cover.
 
cr2250 said:
Btw what is Letter A on the diagram? Is that the crankshaft PS?
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A is the Camshaft sensor. The Crankshaft sensor will be in the engine block, down lower.

Those sensor basically tell the car what position the cam and crank are in so it know when to inject fuel and fire the spark plug.

If they fail completely, your car will stall and not start right away because the ECM will be "guessing" when to fire your plugs. I mean' eventually it will get it and fire up but that could take a while and it would probably just stall again.
 
DaTT said:
A is the Camshaft sensor. The Crankshaft sensor will be in the engine block, down lower.

Those sensor basically tell the car what position the cam and crank are in so it know when to inject fuel and fire the spark plug.

If they fail completely, your car will stall and not start right away because the ECM will be "guessing" when to fire your plugs. I mean' eventually it will get it and fire up but that could take a while and it would probably just stall again.
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I'm confused because at the bottom it says the cam shaft sensor is letter C. Which looks like passenger side. And letter A is closer to the drivers side.
 
Good call, I didn't even notice that. Your best bet is to look up to see what it looks like (the sensor), then go from there. It's either going to be A or C. Not sure if you have DOHC.....also not sure if a DOHC motor would have 2 sensors?
 
Ok, I'm pretty sure I replaced the correct sensor. The sensor I replaced was located near the valve cover (passenger side) on the back of the cover.

I also found another sensor (had same 3 pin connector) near the transmission? area. There was so much surface rust I couldn't even get the damn thing out :/

Probably will bring it to my mechanic. I did do a simple tho as well.

I disconnected the supposedly cam shaft ps and the car started fine but when I disconnected the sensor located near the transmission, the car would not start at all.

I have no idea what the problem could be. As of right now my car starts every time but i'm thinking that will change soon if I don't do something about this engine code.
 
Hmmm. Do you remember exactly when the engine light first went off? Was there a particular event you can connect to it triggering, esp taking it to a shop, or doing some work on it?

Trying to help you pinpoint the problem.
 
janas19 said:
Hmmm. Do you remember exactly when the engine light first went off? Was there a particular event you can connect to it triggering, esp taking it to a shop, or doing some work on it?

Trying to help you pinpoint the problem.
Click to expand...

Well, my mechanic changed the timing belt. It had a code about too much fuel in the system (honestly forget what the code was). Any ways the original timing belt was so stretched it was bringing up a emissions problem.

My mechanic noted that the cam shaft sensor may have been knocked a few times by the belt? That it may need to be replaced. So as I was driving home that night, the check engine light came up again at p0340.

Called my mechanic, said it is most likely the camshaft sensor. I changed it myself, seemed pretty easy.

Code is still on


This is the one I replaced.
 
So you brought it to the mechanic with a fuel code CEL, he "fixed" it, and then shortly thereafter, the CPS CEL went off?

*Edit: scratching my head on this one. I had a similar problem years back with a Mitsubishi Eclipse. I changed the Cam PS but the code was still there. There's a lot of stuff to remove when you change the timing belt, and something could have been torqued wrong. I doubt it actually was the Cam PS. Most likely, that was just something convenient for the mechanic to say. At this point, you're kind of in a bad spot because some half-way work was done and it will be hard to check behind that to pinpoint the exact problem causing the CEL. You know the code, but there are a lot of variables in the timing belt.

Some simple tests I'd recommend: see if you can trace the wiring in the harness that attaches to the Crank PS. Find all the grounds (shouldn't be too hard, if you study it for a good 5 minutes or so) and make sure none are damaged or disconnected. Check for cuts or breaks in the harness coiling. Maybe you can find a short somewhere.
 
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Does the engine light reset after each start and then eventually come on? I know when I had a Grand Prix GTP, the crank sensor was bad and it would actually reset itself and shut the light off after a few good tests.
 
DaTT said:
Does the engine light reset after each start and then eventually come on? I know when I had a Grand Prix GTP, the crank sensor was bad and it would actually reset itself and shut the light off after a few good tests.
Click to expand...

Nope, it will stay off after I cleared it for about 15 minutes then it'll come and stay on.
 
DaTT said:
Nah, it either is faulty or it isn't. Your car isn't a seer...lol
Click to expand...

Well, doesn't seem faulty....so maybe there is an issue with the timing belt. I've had the same mechanic many years, always good work. Charged me 140 to change the timing belt on this car on a SATURDAY.

I'll bring it back to him and see what he says.
 
Doesn't that code also show with a faulty crank sensor? Your mechanic should have the proper tool to monitor the sensors, and other systems too. Might be your best bet to take it back to him and have a diagnostic scan done
 
DaTT said:
Doesn't that code also show with a faulty crank sensor? Your mechanic should have the proper tool to monitor the sensors, and other systems too. Might be your best bet to take it back to him and have a diagnostic scan done
Click to expand...

But if the crank sensor was faulty wouldn't my car have trouble starting?

I disconnected the crank sensor to see and it failed to start, so I think the crank sensor is fine, even with all the rust around it 😀

Also should I be worrying about the amount of rust is on the lower part of the engine/transmission area? It's so much that I can pick away at it with a flat head.
 
That is the correct sensor.
Looking at your picture, pin#1 is at the top-it should be a WHITE wire-unplugged you should read battery voltage w/key on.

Pin#2 RED/BLACK or RED/BLUE, this is the 5V reference signal from the ECM(pin#72).

Pin#3 GREEN, the ECM provides the ground(pin#30).

Alot of cars will still run with a bad cam sensor.
 
Just so you know.
The timining belt drives the exhaust camshaft, with the intake camshaft driven by a chain at the back of the cylinder head.

The timing belt cannot SLAP against the cam sensor.

So you have dual overhead camshafts, but the timing belt only drives one of them.

Your mechanic could be one tooth off-but Hyundai does not say if that will kick a code-unlikely the chain jumped, but who knows?
 
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