Calling Aquarium Gurus`

[narzy]

As I said in the summery, I've become "Fish Chief" of the aquarium in my dorm and currently we are having to clean the tank completely every month and do a 25% water change every week, this in and of itself isn't a big deal but it is consuming an enormous amount of our time and the tank is in less then great shape.

We are using an aqua-tech 30-60 (walmart brand) with filters that haven't been changed in at least 6 months if not longer and the filter is missing it's bio-filter mesh and one of the activated charcoal filters. we do not currently have the correct bio-load in the tank to take care of the nitrite and nitrate levels. We have severe alge problems in the tank and although we have an alge eating fish in the tank the poor guy just can't keep up.

I've run in to a problem trying to find a new bio-filter, I can't find the company's (aqua-tech) web site to see if I can't order a few more for the filter and I am not sure as to which product to use to start cycling the tank to get the correct bacteria levels on the bio-filter or how to use said product. Also do you ever clean the bio-filter once you have it cycled and set up or just leave it be?

I am putting in the proper paperwork to get the supplies I need but this is a government run operation and the fish tank is on the bottom of our dorm staffs list of priorities to take care of.

we also have rather hard water and no water softening capability so the PH sits at 8 to 8.5 and PH down and PH buffers don't even phase the PH levels although PH is the least of my worries at this point. I'm also unable to manage the ammonia levels in the tank without the weekly water changes.

If there is any info I left out, just ask and I will answer, my hope is that by the time I get back on Tuesday I can go in with an itemized list of supplies and get things squared away but basically I need a set up that is extremely low maintenance and can survive with some neglect.

 

[PBMangan]

I'm assuming the tank is fresh water. I would suggest getting a new filter, "Aqua-Clear" they are inexpensive and work great. It's hard to find replacements for store brand stuff because it changes often.

Ammonia levels should drop to zero once you get a sufficient bio filter as ammonia is converted to nitrite and nitrite is converted to nitrate. Really, the only reason to do water changes is to control nitrate levels.

Algae needs three things to thrive: Light, nitrate and Carbon Dioxide. Put your lights on a timer (if not already) I do about 10 hours of light a day (I used to do 12, it's amazing how 2 hours less makes a difference). Nitrate can be control though water changes and CO2 can be controlled through adequate water movement (usually), maybe a power-head or two might help. Also some algae eating fish stop eating algae once the reach adulthood, the best algae eater is the plecostomus[sic].

As for Ph, I wouldn't worry about that much, unless you have sensitive species (Discus etc.).

One last thing, a product I have found to do great things is called "Purigen". It absorbs many impurities. It is reasonalby priced and available a petsmart, great product.

I hope this helps out, good luck!

 

[mooglemania85]

Where's Aquaman on this? He must not be online, or is too busy scanning.

 

[intogamer]

Originally posted by: mooglemania85
Where's Aquaman on this? He must not be online, or is too busy scanning.

Isn't he going to Hong Kong?

 

[Doodoo]

How big is the tank and how many fish are in the tank? First you have to make sure the tank can support the bioload.

 

[Oceandevi]

Originally posted by: PBMangan
I'm assuming the tank is fresh water. I would suggest getting a new filter, "Aqua-Clear" they are inexpensive and work great. It's hard to find replacements for store brand stuff because it changes often.

Ammonia levels should drop to zero once you get a sufficient bio filter as ammonia is converted to nitrite and nitrite is converted to nitrate. Really, the only reason to do water changes is to control nitrate levels.

Algae needs three things to thrive: Light, nitrate and Carbon Dioxide. Put your lights on a timer (if not already) I do about 10 hours of light a day (I used to do 12, it's amazing how 2 hours less makes a difference). Nitrate can be control though water changes and CO2 can be controlled through adequate water movement (usually), maybe a power-head or two might help. Also some algae eating fish stop eating algae once the reach adulthood, the best algae eater is the plecostomus[sic].

As for Ph, I wouldn't worry about that much, unless you have sensitive species (Discus etc.).

One last thing, a product I have found to do great things is called "Purigen". It absorbs many impurities. It is reasonalby priced and available a petsmart, great product.

I hope this helps out, good luck!

make sure to get a bristle-nose pleco as the common plecos reach 15 inches + AND they are useless for algae as adults.

I would not add any chemicals besides a dechlor for chloramine and chlorine.
Prime works well.

What is the size of the tank? I do agree with getting an aquaclear. Too bad they just raised online prices.. You should not have any ammonia this sounds like your filter is not working correctly.

You can rinse the filter pads in aquarium water to clean them. Also you can buy filter floss and make your own pads, these will clog fast though. I have used aquaclear sponges in other filters as they are tough and do not break down like most pads do.

 

[Howard]

Is this tank in direct sunlight? How big is the tank? What lives in it?

 

[narzy]

sorry for getting back to you all so late, I slept in WAY too long.

The tank is 50 gallons currently we have 1 rather large chitlid 1 really big gold fish and one sucker fish (Plecostomus) and a very small orange fish with a pointy tail...we will most likely be adopting a small school of other smaller fish in the near future (I'm the only one on center that actually takes care of the damn fish! :|)

The tank does not have a light source currently our hood is broken and is not in direct sunlight , but it does get light from the overhead lights in the room and the small windows.

I will see if we can get a new filter, I really like the bio-wheel concept from what I've read about it, These are a few of the filters I've been looking at, Marineland Penguin 350 BIO-Wheel Power Filter

 

[Howard]

If the water is aerated properly, a canister filter is superior to a biowheel filter. The biological capacity is mainly limited to surface area, assuming that there's enough oxygen to go around.

I have the Eheim 2213 and it's been going for about 10 years now with basically zero maintenance. Might want to go with the 2215 for the extra filter media capacity, though.

If there's gravel in the tank, get a gravel siphon to clean the crap in the gravel bed. These are pretty popular.

 

[BoomerD]

http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/