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Calling All Honda Gurus

M

MoMeanMugs

Golden Member
I'm trying to help my brother fix his car, as it's been overheating. I replaced the radiator and thermostat, but it still kept overheating. I'm now trying to get to the water pump, but it seems to be an effort in futility. I can't get the the crank bolt off to save my life. I first tried hitting it with my air ratchet, but the crank kept spinning. I then tried to secure the pulley by putting a screwdriver through one of the balancing holes and wedging the handle against the frame. In conjunction with brute force, all I ended up doing was shearing the forged screwdriver in half. I looked online to see what tools are available, and there is a 50mm hex tool that goes on the inside of the crank pulley and bolted to the frame. However, this pulley does NOT have the 50mm hex opening. It is just round. His flywheel isn't exposed on the bottom, so a flywheel locking tool is out the door. I fell like I'm doing a damn engine swap with everything I've done so far. How do I get this thing off? I'm sure someone has run into this before.
 
automatics are a pain. I think your best bet would to be finding the tool made for it, or using a more powerful screwdriver.
 
How can the flywheel not be exposed ? ? Even if it is an automatic, there is an access cover to the Torque Converter / Flexplate as those bolts must come out when you go to remove the tranny. As to the crank bolt, an air ratchet will not do the job. You need an Impact Gun .. air or electric to get it off.

Please see this link on how to get it off .. you may need the special tool listed

Powerbuilt 648796 Honda Crankcase Pulley Removal Tool

http://www.denlorstools.com/ho...belt_helpful_tips.html

You may need this one (depends on the model / year)

Alltrade 648818 Honda Crank Pulley Tool for Crankshaft Pulley Bolt

Or this one:

Alltrade 648826 Honda Crank Pulley Holding Tool

All are listed thru Amazon.com and run in the mid $20's range
 
If you have access to a GOOD 1/2" impact gun a snap-on or Ingersoll Rand with a good air supply3/8" hose and properly fitting impact socket, it will either break or break loose. If somone used locktite last time it was off, heat is your friend 300-350 Deg f and loctite will unlock. It has been a while since I have worked on one and you may also need an IMPACT swivel do not use a standard one it will break and flying shards are bad.

Amos

Edit: I just read the link in the above post and after over 10 years in the repair business I never had one a quality 1/2" gun wouldn't take off.
 
Thanks guys!

BruceB, the 648826 will do the trick. I found it right before you posted. Either I didn't see it before, or it wasn't coming up in a search for whatever reason.

MadAmos, thanks for the suggestions. I don't need the swivel as it can be hit head on. My question to you is, how many PSI is needed to get this thing loose. I've seen conflicting numbers between 300 fl-lbs and 134 ft-lbs. I believe the crank bolt on my LS1 is only like 250 ft-lbs, so I'm guessing his is not 300. The little tank I have only outputs 150 PSI.
 
Glad to help. MadAmos as to the rating of the impact gun, I agree. A good one from Snap On or Matco in 1/2" capacity should do it. But a lot depends on how many CFM your compressor can put out. I have an old PorterCable 1/2" Electric 1/2" which can hit about 200Lb/Ft of torque.
 
I'm not endorsing this method by any stretch, but a lot of the Supra guys use a breaker bar w/ an extension so that the socket is on the bolt and the handle is resting on the ground, braced opposite of the spin of the engine. They bump the starter and the bolt breaks loose.

I've never tried it and assume no liability if you do, but many people say it works.

Now putting the bolt back on, no idea.
 
I thought of that, but it's a good thing I actually read while I was looking for the tool the other day. Apparently Honda 4 cylinder motors run counter-clockwise (silly Japanese), so doing that will make the bolt tighter. I thought I'd throw that in in case anyone thought of doing that on a 4 banger. Apparently their V6 models run clockwise like every other normal motor.
 
Except that newer honda motors, any K series, R series, maybe some others, spin in the same direction as everyone else. In general, if the transmission is on the passenger's side, then the motor runs the "wrong" way.

When my friend and I changed the head gasket (twice!) on his civic, we ran into the crank pulley bolt. We managed to break it free by sticking some beefy bolts into the holes in the crank pulley and wedging a large breaker bar against those and the ground. Additionally, we needed a generous application of kroil and an impact wrench rated at 650 ft/lb to break it loose.
 
Like I said, don't sue me if you put it on the wrong way and the wrench spins and takes out other things 🙂

Other people have also suggested using a large chain wrench around the crank pulley to hold everything steady, braced against the ground, and a large impact gun to take the bolt off. It might help if you have a lower rated gun that's just spinning the assembly rather than breaking it loose.
 
if you are turning the nut while holding the crank and crank pulley steady there are no tricks that would lead you to overtighten the nut
 
Please check the shop manual before attempting to remove the crank bolt. If the motor does normally turn counterclockwise, then there is a very good chance, Honda decided to use a Left Hand Thread for the Crank Bolt .. if that is the case, then you would turn the Bolt Clockwise,
to Remove and Counterclockwise to Tighten. It may be worth a call to a dealer mechanic to verify. Or just call your local engine rebuilder shop.
They should know for sure which way it is.
 
The air flow is just as important as the pressure most compressors with 125 PSI and a 3/8" hose should be plenty adequate for the 10-15 seconds that it should take to loosen the bolt. For one fastener the CFM of the compressor should not even come into it as the flow will all be from the tank until the pressure drops. The 10 year old Ingersoll 1/2' Impact that I use was rated at 600ft lbs/90 PSI. The important part is flow and that is why a larger hose is key most air hoses are 1/4" and the pressure drop is just to much, at my present job we commonly use a 1" impact with a 1 1/4" hose to brake loose bolting that is torqued to 1100+ ft lbs.

Amos
 
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