Cable Management DIY guide *update 2* photos added!

Talcite

Senior member
Apr 18, 2006
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Hey guys, basically i've gone a bit crazy over little DIY projects lately. Nice and cheap ones that cost under 100. This one here's a cable management project. Seeing one of those Falcon Northwest systems got me hyped up. Theres no way i should have to pay a 1000+ premium to have a good cabling job. While i don't have a digi cam on me right now... i can post pics soon. Best part about this project is it works with any case, $20 (mine =p) or $200. (I bought my system 2nd hand, so no choice in case >.>')

This job took me roughly 3 hours, mostly because the stupid PWR LED cables kept falling out, and i've been cursed with thick, clumsy fingers -_-' Most of you vets out there can probably do it in 2.

Why would one want to redo cables? A good job increases airflow. A good job looks damn cool =p

I work at a computer store, so i have a bit too much free time around computers =p

Its real simple. I only spent 30 CDN on it! and i still have enough parts left over for atleast 2 more systems without having to buy anymore.

**UPDATE** I have photos! used my cell phone camera, so quality isn't amazing, but i got alotta closeups.

Step 1: Go shopping for suits! er, cable ties!
All you really need is to make a stop at Home Depot. Head over to the electrical section, pick up about 100 cable zip ties. I build alot of systems so i got 1000, it cost $12.48CDN. I'm assuming you guys all have slant cutters. If you don't, buy a cheap, small pair. It only needs to be good enough to cut plastic.

Zip ties, pack of 1000

Next pick up some zip tie mounting pads. Trust me, you NEED these, especially if you have a cheap case. 100 for 9.98. you can get them in 8s if you want. but its like 2 dollars. You typically need 8 for a midtower case, depends how creative and conservative you are.

zip tie mounts, pack of 100.


Most expensive and most importantly, you need spiral wrap. YOU NEED them. its 5.48 for a package of 2 tubes, one thin one thick. both are 1.2m in length. Depending on how many cables you have, how conservative you are with them, one pack should last you for a system. Don't get the tube wrap, get the spiral one. I'll have pics.

spiral wrap
spiral wrap stretched
spiral wrap package of 2

Step 2: Let the fun begin!

This is the fun part. Disconnect everything. And i mean everything. All the cables, even pwr LED and stuff.

Start by untangling the wires, seperate the 20/24pin connector from the rest of the cables. Then seperate the 4pin 12v rail. Seperate all the cables you don't need from the ones you do. Then seperate the power supply fan control. Keep them seperate.

Step 3: Measure twice, cut once

now get creative.

plan out where you should put the wires you don't need. This is where the zip tie mounts really help. You have so many more possibilities. I ended up tieing the unused cables to the roof of the case, almost out of sight. The zip tie mounts should be self explanatory. you thread them through, and then you put cables inbetween and then ziiippp.

Close up of a zip tie mount
Unused cables, secured to roof of case, beside PSU

Now plan out the 12v rail and the 20/24 pin connector. Find a nice place to hide it so it can make its way to the MB connector. Crevices and gaps are your best friends. Wrap the wires in spiral wrap. include any fan connectors that you need. This is why i said spiral and not tube. With spiral wrap, you can make a cable exit anywhere along the path of the main cable group. There is no need for a new tube, simply stop winding the cable at that point and continue winding the rest of the cables in the group. Its hard to explain but pics will clear that up. The 20/24pin is hard to fit into a crevice, i usually just use a zip tie mount. Try to bundle at right angles, it leaves a nice effect in the end. Cut the spiral wrap when its no longer needed. If you run short in spiral wrap, simply space out the spirals.

12v mobo rail. wrapped, mounted.

DO NOT CUT THE WRAP BEFORE WRAPPING THE WIRE. I cannot stress this enough, disregard the package's instructions. The length of the wrap CHANGES as you wrap thicker wires! you'll have to endure slightly more tedious wraping, as the excess gets in the way, but you'll have perfect length wrap.

Now zip the 20/24pin and 12v rail to any surfaces to make it secure. Use mounts if necessary.

20/24pin + 12v rail secured, zipped

Now start with the IDE power cables. Connect them, and try to find a good place to hide them. Its usually good to hide them along the roof of the case, right behind the edge. figure out which parts of the wires travel together, and wrap them together. zip to secure.

optical drive pwr wires. Note the wire is hidden behind case bezel initially.
HD power cables, zipped and spares taken care of.

The frontal USB/Firewire ports are rather bothersome. Theses require doing several times to get right. And in my case, they didn't have the length to go at a right angle, or any angle actually. I ended up doing a nice parabolic arch lol. still looks acceptable i guess. Anyways, connect up, figure which wires have to exit where, and make sure you have the right measurements, and then wrap, zip, cut. You're probably going to have to disconnect them to wrap these. They have the annoying habit of coming undone at the slightest pull. zip tie mounts are probably essential here.

Pwr LED cables etc. Exits wrap at different locations for right length.
Entire front panel wiring. this took an hour to get right.

SATA cables are both easy and pleasureable. Don't worry about folding them 180 degrees. If falcon northwest can do it, we can too. Zip them to a secure surface.

IDE data cables are the biggest pain in the a$$. ever.
Don't use rounded cables... "but they look cool!" ...But they actually are not part of the IDE specifications! But they cause signaling problems!
I have seen many people fold the cables. I've always sucked at origami. I probably always will. only thing i can make are paper airplanes. and damn good ones. When you see the pics, you'll probably agree that the signal cables are the ugliest part of the case. You guys probably can fold better than i can. I can't offer much advice here.

Sata power cables are the same deal as IDE power cables, make sure they fit.

Finished product, IDE signal cables really screw it up.
Finished product, IDE cables removed.

So that's pretty much my guide. Heres the main tips i can give you guys for a better looking case.

1. use right angle turns
2. stay in the 2D, but if you must, go 3D
3. Use the crevices alot
4. Out of sight, out of making the case ugly.
5. Try to follow any metal edges on the case, such as the edge of a HD rack or something.
6. The shortest path generally is ugly.
7. The space around the rear case fan is really useful for tucking wires, the fan mount holes are great for zipping.
8. Try to make arrange it in a way where there is no excess cable, use all of it. Looks tidier.
9. Be creative!

Use the crevices!
Exclude connectors from spiral wrap

Anyways, I'm basically waiting for high school to wind down. I'd be very happy to comment on any cabling jobs you guys have done. Just post a pic. If you're stuck and need some pointers, post the pic, i'll try to help.

In retrospect, i think i could have done a better job especially around the IDE power cables. But this is only a small part of my project. Next up i'm going to sound proof the case and then install a plexiglass window and remove the case door. Purely experimental stuff.

I'd like to thank my dad for giving me all the advice about this. He's the one that gave me all the tips with zip tie mounts and spiral wrap.

For you really hard core modders out there, check out this cable management guide.
Holly Wiring

Thanks guys, let me know what you think of the guide. I might write one up on sound proofing after i finish the 2nd part of my case transition.

BTW: this all started with the power cutting out and burning out my PSU... even though i have a $80 APC surge protector -_-' SO... if you like my guide, thank Hydro One =p

UPDATE:

New computer, new wiring job =P

here's the pics.

Pic 1 My computer relaxing in it's natural habitat... my dorm room =P

Pic 2 Upper chambre of the P180.

Pic 3 Entire system

Pic 4 Side view of system

Pic 5 Reverse angle shot

Pic 6 EPS 12v between the HSF and the case wall.

Pic 7 Primary sata drive, cables zip tied.
 

Talcite

Senior member
Apr 18, 2006
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thanks sparkey. I'll edit the photo and point out any ways you can make the case look tidier. it should be done by tmr or day after.
 

Talcite

Senior member
Apr 18, 2006
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Sparkey, i've put a few suggestions about the case down, i could help more if you got some more high res. photos, especially from different angles. Sparkey's comp revision1 Red is the current wire you have, Yellow is where i suggest you zip them. its sort of unclear close to the PSU, cause theres a few wires in the same place. If you need help just ask heh.
 

sparkey

Member
Oct 26, 2005
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thanks talcite your suggestions are great am going to redo my loop this weekend and will use your diagram
thanks again
tom
 

KK

Lifer
Jan 2, 2001
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Has anyone ever used good ole wax string instead of zip ties. sometimes those zip ties can cut your fingers if you aren't careful.
 

UMfanatic

Senior member
Jan 16, 2004
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hey thanks talcite, I have an Armor series case, and I still had some nasty wiring set up, I was already using zip ties, since my dad has bizillions of them for his ham radio stuff he mailed me like a box full, but it was still rather messy, I am going to redo my case this afternoon
 

sparkey

Member
Oct 26, 2005
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talcite now look what you've gone and done,........................ started an epidemic of tidy case wireing ,and they say it might be spreading good for you keep up the good work
i really appreciate what you did to my case thankyou
tom
 

jwhitakr

Senior member
Sep 23, 2005
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Nice guide, Talcite. Reminds me that I need to spend some time working on the inside of my case cleaning up the wiring!
 

Talcite

Senior member
Apr 18, 2006
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actually, yes zip ties CAN cut you. That's why i don't cut the ends off until everything else is done. I used to cut them off as soon as i zipped, and my hands ended up being totally scratched and bloody in some spots.

Modular PSUs are actually pretty useful, but when you think about it. the case shown actually doesn't have many wires because theres that huge space up top that can hide any excess length. People with cheap cases, like me =p, don't have that luxury, so most of the time we're forced to make sure the lengths are perfect.
 

Talcite

Senior member
Apr 18, 2006
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Stay tuned guys, i'm going to redo the wiring in my case soon, especially IDE cables etc. =p I actually was also planning to install a plexiglass case door and then sound proof the case. I'm going to see if its possible to make a video tutorial. I can encode and all, my p4 2.8 is fast enough i hope =p but, i really need to find some way to host the videos. If anyone has a server or some way to host the stuff, please contact me. I'm also going to be gone between april 24th and may 8th, so don't expect anything coming from me in that time. Thanks guys.
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
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<blockquote>quote:
Originally posted by: UMfanatic
hey thanks talcite, I have an Armor series case, and I still had some nasty wiring set up, I was already using zip ties, since my dad has bizillions of them for his ham radio stuff he mailed me like a box full, but it was still rather messy, I am going to redo my case this afternoon</blockquote>

i have that armor case, and believe me, its a LOT easier for cable management in that case then the one thats used here. Just follow the guide, its been out for a while and i was thinking of writting one personally but got lazy, this is because a lot of people complain about heat issues in there case, and they end up buying more and more fans, which still block about 80% of the air flow. Best note is keep all the wires behind the backplate on your mobo and invest in some female molex removers so you can remove the molex head, drill a hole, stuff the wire though the hole, reapply molex. :D

If you want some pictures i could email you some, but since i have a complete watercooling setup in my tank it might not help very much due to the tubes, but i could show you how i arranged my rear mobo plate if that will help.

Glad this thing got a sticky!
 

Talcite

Senior member
Apr 18, 2006
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I'd be very interested in removing the molex connectors and sticking behind the mobo. Please post pics and brief desc. if you can.
 

potato28

Diamond Member
Jun 27, 2005
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Originally posted by: Talcite
I'd be very interested in removing the molex connectors and sticking behind the mobo. Please post pics and brief desc. if you can.

Ask or PM GalvinizedYankee. He knows where to get molex removel tools.
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
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you can buy the molex female removing tool almost anywhere. The cheapest i found the complete set is at xoxide.com. SVC just charges rediculously too much for them. I'll post pics as soon as i can get my camera back from my little brother.

But the concept is very simple. Just use the molex head removing tool, remove the molex head, drill a hole large enough to stuff the 4 cables though, and then reapply the molex head.

Heres a link to the tools that i use, and there awesome. Seriously the best 12.95 ive spent on case moding supplies.

Molex Removing Tools
 

Talcite

Senior member
Apr 18, 2006
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thanks guys good stuff, good stuff. Are there any problems with removing the molex connectors, bent/broken pins, weak connections?