Buying third party parts and having mechanic install them?

fuzzybabybunny

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I need to replace a few parts on my 2014 Subaru Crosstrek. My mechanic quoted some pretty high prices for the parts and I can find them all for way cheaper online.

I bent the "trailing arm" and "lateral link"

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2...54106_6029060/REAR-SUSPENSION/G33-201-01.html

I also need the wheel bearings replaced on both rear wheels.

The thing is I can find parts from brands like Mevotech for cheaper:

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2014/subaru/xv_crosstrek/suspension/trailing_arm.html

The issue is that there are always additional parts like bushings, nuts, flange bolts, etc that are used to secure the main parts. If I buy the Mevotech trailing arm, for example, is there no guarantee that the mechanic will even be able to put it on the car if I don't buy all the other supporting parts as well? Or do these third party parts also include all the additional hardware for mounting?
 

jlee

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Parts don't generally come with bolts - it's assumed that the ones on the vehicle will be re-used. Verify with the shop that they are willing to work with customer-provided parts. Some shops may refuse and others may have a higher labor rate to do so. You will likely have no warranty on labor.
 

fuzzybabybunny

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Parts don't generally come with bolts - it's assumed that the ones on the vehicle will be re-used. Verify with the shop that they are willing to work with customer-provided parts. Some shops may refuse and others may have a higher labor rate to do so. You will likely have no warranty on labor.

I called the local mechanic and he's totally ok with using parts I buy. Can bolts generally be re-used? I always feel like bolts and threads get rusted and corroded to hell.
 

jlee

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I called the local mechanic and he's totally ok with using parts I buy. Can bolts generally be re-used? I always feel like bolts and threads get rusted and corroded to hell.

Generally yes. A common exception would be cylinder head bolts (they're frequently torque to yield, i.e. they stretch during installation). If you're in the rust belt, it's possible that the hardware will be rusted enough that you'd want to replace it or it will need to be cut apart, necessitating replacement.
 
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Yuriman

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Your mechanic probably won't offer you warranty on the work he did, but I wouldn't expect that to be important for a trailing arm anyway.
 
Feb 25, 2011
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Cheaper parts = poor quality in most cases.

There are definitely companies **cough**Duralast**cough** making stuff from cheap plastic that only mostly fits.

But given the variation in what I've paid for "official" Ford/Honda parts, I think the dealer markup is just really freaking huge. Aftermarket companies can and do make good quality parts and still sell them cheaper than the list price for the OEM stuff. Heck, the companies that made the parts for the automaker are often the ones selling the aftermarket parts on the side. (The "Motorcraft" branded spark plugs for my Ford were NGK-built and had NGK part numbers stamped on the box. So I bought the same NGK plugs instead for $20 less.)

Remanufacturing/refurbishment (common with things like axles or brake calipers) also screws with that, since you're buying a used OEM part that's had the rubber bits replaced and new grease put it, but paying half the "new" price.
 

mindless1

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Sometimes rusted suspension bolts are only cosmetically rusted and can be reused. Other times they shear off during the removal attempt or the head or nut rounds and they end up being cut off and beaten out.

If the mechanic does this for a living then he's got to have a source for replacements. In some cases it's just a standard bolt and you can even find it at a hardware store, providing it's sufficiently hardened, maybe needs to have a flange or washer added to substitute for one, and hopefully if metric, that the replacement is too so the next person to come along isn't trying to use the wrong size wrench or socket on it.

In other cases a bolt might need to be special ordered and take a few days to arrive unless you're willing to pay all that much more for rapid delivery. How much downtime you can suffer and how much interruption to finishing the mechanic won't mind, have to be factored in. Nobody likes to have to stop a job on a then (possibly) immobile vehicle and get it out of the way to do something else.

You can probably get away with using Mevotech for a trailing arm but I wouldn't use their or any other off brand (which just means 2nd tier, I am not opposed to aftermarket brands like Moog, ACDelco Pro, and some others) for something like a ball joint or the wheel bearings unless you're selling it soon so the repair cost is the only priority.
 

Raincity

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My mechanic will let me to buy my own parts. But if he feels they are poor quality. Then its a no go on the install. He can order up bolts bushings ect ect if needed to be delivered to the shop if something is stripped or seized up. With your trailing arm. Most likely what will go overtime is the bushing. Mevotech has been good in the past. You can get is few bucks cheaper at Rock and use the 5% discount coupon all over the net to get it even cheaper.
 

fuzzybabybunny

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I ended up buying:

Mevotech Lateral Link - It has a ball joint assembly as well as included bushings, but I chose the version that is adjustable in length that most closely matches a similar part from MOOG, and was 4 times the price of their non-adjustable version which go for $30.

Mevotech Trailing Arm - Includes the bushing. I figure it'll be alright? There weren't any offerings from MOOG.

Timken Wheel Hub Assembly (to replace my worn bearings) - Timken is a Japanese brand and I think they're regarded well. Wore bearings are very common on the Crosstrek, so I don't think I'd want to get OEM bearings anyway...
 

fuzzybabybunny

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Question:

The Subaru parts diagram says my part is called the "Lateral Link Assembly - Front"

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/LATERAL-LINK-ASSEMBLY-FRONT/49229223/20250FG021.html

Mevotech is the only brand that calls this part the "Lateral Link and Ball Joint Assembly"

https://www.partsgeek.com/assets/dimage/thumb/1405710.jpg

Brands like MOOG and ACDelco have a part that looks really really similar (and pop up alongside the same search results), but they're called "Control Arms w/ Ball Joint". When I search for "lateral link" in Rock Auto for instance it takes me straight to the "control arm" section.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6335685&cc=3298583&jsn=352

Are "lateral links" and "control arms" the exact same thing? If Subaru wants me to get the "lateral link with ball joint assembly" can I buy the ACDelco Pro "Rear Lower Forward Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint"? The non-greaseable ones are more expensive than the greaseable ones, so go for non-greaseable?
 

mindless1

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^ I'm not so good with exploded diagrams opposed to looking at the real life vehicle, but your rear suspension only has the one part that looks like that, looks like RA is just calling the lateral link a control arm in error, or they just have the habit of calling whichever piece has the ball joint in it, the control arm.

In the case of the two ACDelco Pro's, I wouldn't necessarily assume the more expensive one is better merely because it costs a bit more. They are very nearly the same price, usually when it's a lower tier part, the price difference is greater and it wouldn't be their Pro series, wouldn't have the lifetime warranty.

In this case, the non-greasable probably has a plastic bushing which will be a tiny bit smoother operation, especially before the greased version breaks in, but the greased version should be more immune to impacts, potholes/speedbumps/etc, and longer lasting providing you remember to grease it every other oil change or so (or every oil change if on a greatly extended oil change interval). If you're taking the vehicle somewhere to have oil changes done, you'll need to remember to tell them it is greasable because they probably wouldn't expect that and not even check it to realize they should grease it.

Oddly the RA pics for both of those part #'s have a grease fitting in them.

Your original was probably non-greasable, but it's hard to say how long it would have lasted since the # of parts you're mentioning looks like an impact damage to the whole wheel rather than the ball joint wearing out. You'd probably be fine with the non-greasable version if you prefer not to grease it, unless you take it off-road or drive in a lot of grimy or salted road slush conditions then it helps to have the ability to put grease through it to flush contamination out. The boot on the joint will protect it for (hopefully) a few years but eventually won't seal completely.

Timken makes good bearings, including those for multiple OEMs so that might even be what your OEM bearings were? Often you can buy the OEM branded part and pay more than for the exact same thing under the actual manufacturer's name.
 
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fuzzybabybunny

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^ I'm not so good with exploded diagrams opposed to looking at the real life vehicle, but your rear suspension only has the one part that looks like that, looks like RA is just calling the lateral link a control arm in error, or they just have the habit of calling whichever piece has the ball joint in it, the control arm.

In the case of the two ACDelco Pro's, I wouldn't necessarily assume the more expensive one is better merely because it costs a bit more. They are very nearly the same price, usually when it's a lower tier part, the price difference is greater and it wouldn't be their Pro series, wouldn't have the lifetime warranty.

In this case, the non-greasable probably has a plastic bushing which will be a tiny bit smoother operation, especially before the greased version breaks in, but the greased version should be more immune to impacts, potholes/speedbumps/etc, and longer lasting providing you remember to grease it every other oil change or so (or every oil change if on a greatly extended oil change interval).

Oddly the RA pics for both of those part #'s have a grease fitting in them.

Your original was probably non-greasable, but it's hard to say how long it would have lasted since the # of parts you're mentioning looks like an impact damage to the whole wheel rather than the ball joint wearing out. You'd probably be fine with the non-greasable version if you prefer not to grease it, unless you take it off-road or drive in a lot of grimy conditions then it helps to have the ability to put grease through it to flush contamination out. The boot on the joint will protect it for (hopefully) a few years but eventually won't seal completely.

Timken makes good bearings, including those for multiple OEMs so that might even be what your OEM bearings were? Often you can buy the OEM branded part and pay more than for the exact same thing under the actual manufacturer's name.
Thanks. I already placed an order for a Mevotech Lateral Link. Should I cancel it and get the ACDelco Pro Control Arm with Ball Joint instead since ACDelco Pro is supposed to be higher quality? Both are adjustable, which I think is important since there was impact damage to the original part... from offroading but doing so too quickly.
 

mindless1

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I'm confused, don't see the Mevotech on Rock Auto. Yes I would get the ACDelco Pro over the Mevotech, unless the price difference is large and you won't be keeping the vehicle for long. If it is significantly cheaper then I'd compare it instead to the $67 Moog economy part on RA.

Wait a second, I might need sleep but it looks like RA has the Moog upper tier Problem Solver version for a buck less at $66. That makes no sense, but is what I'd get:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4704051&cc=3298583


Some people say the Mevotech BJ's are good but I've also seen a lot of reports of them wearing out faster, and the one time I did buy a Mevotech control arm with BJ from RA, it wasn't even what was pictured, was a lower end part. Rock Auto did take it back, but IIRC I ended up paying return shipping (can't recall for certain).
 
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fuzzybabybunny

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I got the Mevotech from partsgeek, not Rock Auto.

I'm looking for a replacement that's "set it and forget it." I do take the Subie off road, but not too often and I usually go slow when I do.

If a "greaseable" part means "requires greasing every oil change" then all that means to me is increased maintenance cost, so should I just buy the non-greaseable version?

Or does "greaseable" mean that it can be greased, but it's still ok if you choose to never grease it?
 

mindless1

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If you do your own oil changes then you need a grease gun ~ $15 and grease (lifetime supply of the good stuff is around $7), but if you get a shop to do an oil and lube, that's what the lube is so it's free.

It will come from the factory with grease, then I would add a little right after installed, then the conditions of use determine how often it needs greased but roughly ever 10K miles would be good. If you forget and don't do it for 20K mi that's not a big deal but if you never do then it will probably have a shorter lifespan than the non-greasable with plastic bushing, except resistance to bumps in the road as already mentioned. Most off-road enthusiasts prefer greasable but in your case if you want to "set it and forget it" then I'd go with the non-greasable.
 

fuzzybabybunny

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If you do your own oil changes then you need a grease gun ~ $15 and grease (lifetime supply of the good stuff is around $7), but if you get a shop to do an oil and lube, that's what the lube is so it's free.

It will come from the factory with grease, then I would add a little right after installed, then the conditions of use determine how often it needs greased but roughly ever 10K miles would be good. If you forget and don't do it for 20K mi that's not a big deal but if you never do then it will probably have a shorter lifespan than the non-greasable with plastic bushing, except resistance to bumps in the road as already mentioned. Most off-road enthusiasts prefer greasable but in your case if you want to "set it and forget it" then I'd go with the non-greasable.

Sounds good. I'm assuming the OEM part is sealed and non-greaseable, at least "grease control arm" isn't in the routine maintenance manual anywhere and no where does it say to grease ball joints during every oil change.

I've already put 100k on the car, and I haven't had a ball joint issue other than this impact that bent the entire thing, so I'm assuming that with my typical use I can probably just go for the non-greaseable version and be quite happy?
 

Raincity

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Hope your stuff fits, Just dropped of a load of suspension parts this morning for my mechanic to redo the front and back suspension on my Pilot. He called me this afternoon saying some of the stuff dont fit. Seems that some of the parts Rock Auto sent are in the wrong packaging boxes.