Building a small shed

[Howard]

Hello folks,

I'm planning on building a small shed in my backyard, roughly 36"x24"x48" WDH (not including base/stand).

The frame shall be constructed with 20ga light steel stud and track with 3-5/8" wall thickness.

Studs shall be maintained on 24" centers where possible.

The interior shall be lined with 24ga 304 SS 2B-finish sheet and secured to the frame with 18-8 SS rivets, or 18-8 SS bolts where necessary.

The interior seams shall be sealed air- and water-tight with Dow 748 silicone sealant.

The exterior shall be faced with steel siding of some type, preferably with 12" centers so that the same stock can be used on the 36" sides as well as the 24" sides.

The door shall be constructed with 20 ga light steel framing with 3-5/8" wall thickness.

The door shall be faced with sheet metal. Will probably body-fill the seams and paint it for a seamless look.

The door shall be mounted to the frame with two lift-off hinges, and be sealed against a seamless metal lip on the frame, with a silicone rubber bulb seal attached all around the periphery on the inner face of the door.

The walls and door shall be insulated with Roxul ComfortBatt 48"x24"x3.5" R15 flexible mineral wool batt insulation.

Can you guys guess what it's for? Pics to come...

Anyway, I'm stuck with how I'm going to do the roof. I'll probably do a flat roof for simplicity, sloped down towards the back of the shed, but not sure what materials I need, whether I have to build the roof structure (attic?) into the main rectangular frame (or plop it on top as a modular add-on), and how the siding will interface with the roof. Also not sure how I can get the siding to fit around the door opening without compromising the ability to shed water and keep the insulation dry.

EDIT: Wasn't much of a puzzle I suppose.

 

[Blain]

If you go with metal on the roof, make sure and use some sort of membrane under the metal.
Metal can sweat under the right conditions, making for soggy stuff in the shed.
I know from experience.

 

[Greenman]

I hope it's a smoker, otherwise you're wasting a lot of effort on a tiny shed.

 

[Carson Dyle]

3 ft wide, 2 ft deep, 5 ft tall??

That's not a shed. It's a box.

 

[jaha2000]

24 GA 304 - 2B on the inside. gotta be a smoker.

 

[Blain]

How about something along the lines of a Rubbermaid storage shed?

 

[waffleironhead]

24 GA 304 - 2B on the inside. gotta be a smoker.

What is the high temp in a smoker? That sealant is only rated for ~350 freedom degrees.

 

[jaha2000]

Should be plenty. Low and slow.

 

[Howard]

Yeah, you guys got it. Still need ideas for a roof though.

The floating grate is going to be supported on a simple white oak frame on the inside. I was considering using angle aluminum (galvanic corrosion and a pain to mount to the frame) or angle stainless ($ and still a pain), so I figured a stick-built oak frame would last a good while and be cheap without corroding anything.

 

[jaha2000]

you can get stainless angle. if I was going to build something like that I would use them and just weld them to the sheet metal on the inside.

 

[Howard]

you can get stainless angle. if I was going to build something like that I would use them and just weld them to the sheet metal on the inside.

I don't have a welder and this project doesn't justify buying one. Besides, I have never welded anything in my life and I'm sure I would burn right through lots of $$$ worth of 24 ga SS sheet.

 

[jaha2000]

fair enough.
Looks like a neat project for sure!

 

[Greenman]

I saw a smoker on QVC the other day that had a digital thermostat, so you just punch in the temperature you want, a digital timer, a glass front, and a device for adding wood chips and water without having to open the door. It also came with a cover and a bunch of wood chips. I think it was $299. Seems like a much more piratical and user friendly method of smoking than what you're doing, probably cheaper as well.

Sometimes you really don't need to reinvent the wheel.

 

[Howard]

I saw a smoker on QVC the other day that had a digital thermostat, so you just punch in the temperature you want, a digital timer, a glass front, and a device for adding wood chips and water without having to open the door. It also came with a cover and a bunch of wood chips. I think it was $299. Seems like a much more piratical and user friendly method of smoking than what you're doing, probably cheaper as well.

Sometimes you really don't need to reinvent the wheel.

But it wouldn't be a project then.

I know I could buy a Masterbuilt electric smoker and do a few mods to it and it'd be good enough, but it wouldn't be awesome. Plus the capacity!

 

[Greenman]

But it wouldn't be a project then.

I know I could buy a Masterbuilt electric smoker and do a few mods to it and it'd be good enough, but it wouldn't be awesome. Plus the capacity!

Will you end up with something better by building it yourself? Or is it just a project?

I'm not into cooking, so when looking at smokers I wanted something easy to use, easy to clean, and inexpensive because I don't often use it. Obviously your wants and needs are different than mine, but I'm curious as to what the home made unit will have other than size?

 

[Howard]

Will you end up with something better by building it yourself? Or is it just a project?

I'm not into cooking, so when looking at smokers I wanted something easy to use, easy to clean, and inexpensive because I don't often use it. Obviously your wants and needs are different than mine, but I'm curious as to what the home made unit will have other than size?

Yes.

1) Better temperature control with a PID controller
2) Size
3) Pride and bragging rights
4) Accumulated knowledge/experience from research and labour
4) Energy efficiency (up to 3x less electricity required) for long smokes/cooks/bakes
5) External smoke generation for better smoke control
6) Future expansion for direct relative humidity control*

* Current plan is to heat a pot of water inside. The RH would then be adjusted by varying the position of the lid, i.e. the more water is exposed, the greater the RH. With the constant 1-3 CFM air flow, the RH would find equilibrium.

Current model shown below. Haven't had time yet to start building yet, but hope to get it done by end of June. The insulation is completely external to the walls, a la PERSIST/REMOTE home construction, and the roof is cold and (mostly) non-ventilated. The caulked sheet metal lining inside serves as the air, water, and vapor barrier.

Not shown: Siding, furring, insulation squash blocks, door, door frame, electrical/air/smoke connection details.

 

[Howard]

I'm especially proud of the multi-sloped ceiling pan inside (hidden). It prevents any overhead condensation from falling onto the food. Details to come.

 

[mizzou]

3 ft wide, 2 ft deep, 5 ft tall??

That's not a shed. It's a box.

my thoughts exactly.

 

[Howard]

It got bigger. It's over 4 feet wide now.

 

[DrPizza]

I see you're lining the inside. Is it going to be absolutely air tight against the studs that you're building it out of? Or, what I'm getting at, if that thing is pretty warm, I wouldn't want my food to taste like pine, if you use pine studs, rather than a hardwood.

 

[Howard]

I see you're lining the inside. Is it going to be absolutely air tight against the studs that you're building it out of? Or, what I'm getting at, if that thing is pretty warm, I wouldn't want my food to taste like pine, if you use pine studs, rather than a hardwood.

Steel studs. Yes, all seams (and exposed fasteners) will be caulked with silicone.

 

[Howard]

If only I knew how easy it was to simply order the steel framing cut to length, I would've done it in a heartbeat. Not only would I have saved myself many hours of tedious labor cutting the steel with aviation snips, I would've also been able to use a better material than the 25 ga at the big box store.

Why's the 25 ga inferior? Two reasons:

1) Flimsy
2) It tends to come embossed with intricate geometric patterns to increase its rigidity beyond what a simple prismatic bend can offer. This makes it difficult for two pieces to be fastened together without at least one of them warping.

I picked up some 16 ga and 20 ga to build a rigid door frame and wow this material is some good stuff.

 

[Greenman]

If only I knew how easy it was to simply order the steel framing cut to length, I would've done it in a heartbeat. Not only would I have saved myself many hours of tedious labor cutting the steel with aviation snips, I would've also been able to use a better material than the 25 ga at the big box store.

Why's the 25 ga inferior? Two reasons:

1) Flimsy
2) It tends to come embossed with intricate geometric patterns to increase its rigidity beyond what a simple prismatic bend can offer. This makes it difficult for two pieces to be fastened together without at least one of them warping.

I picked up some 16 ga and 20 ga to build a rigid door frame and wow this material is some good stuff.

Use a carborundum wheel in a chop saw for cutting steel studs, or a portable band saw.

 

[Howard]

Use a carborundum wheel in a chop saw for cutting steel studs, or a portable band saw.

Didn't have either. Oh well.

 

[Greenman]

Didn't have either. Oh well.

This is an issue I see often, fellows that take on a project without the proper gear. The right tools make a slow demanding project a lot faster and easier. They often mean the difference between an ok job and truly professional finished product. I understand that most people don't have the need of a well stocked tool shed, but if you're going to tackle projects tougher than painting the bathroom, there are some tools that are a must have.
I absolutely hate trying to do a job without the right equipment at hand. Get your material, set up your gear, think through the steps, then get the job done.

Before you all beat me to death, I know my requirements are a lot different than most peoples, but I honestly believe a basic $1500 tool kit is a must for any weekend warrior. Good gear will last a homeowner for many years, and save you 20 times it's cost.