Building a PC

Jun 1, 2004
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Hello! I was wondering if some of you guys could take a look at the specs for the PC I'm about to begin building and let me know if everything looks ok as far as compatibility, value, etc.

Gazelle Black Midtower case w/ 400w PS ($74.99)

AMD ATHLON XP 2500 "Barton" 400 FSB PROCESSOR CPU- RETAIL ($80.00)

MSI "K7N2 Delta-L" nForce2 Ultra 400 Chipset Motherboard for AMD Socket A CPU -RETAIL ($66.00)

Kingston 184 Pin 512MB DDR PC-3200 - Retail ($88.00)

NEC 8X Black DVD+RW/-RW Drive, Model ND-2500A, OEM Bulk ($74.99)

Lite On 52x32x52 Black Color CDRW Drive LTR-52327S - OEM ($30.99)

SONY Black 1.44MB 3.5inch Floppy Disk Drive, Model MPF920, OEM
($10.99)

Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition OEM ($91.00)

TOTAL: $516.96

For the video card, I'm going to use the Geforce FX 5600 Ultra I have now until the prices on the X800-series cards come down. And I just bought a Maxtor 250 GB HDD for $130 at CompUSA during their Memorial Day sale.

So my main questions are:

1. Is building a PC as easy as people are telling me? I'm being led to believe that pretty much all the instructions you need come with the motherboard and it's pretty simple overall. I have taken an A+ Computer Hardware class, but my instructor was an idiot and we did book work 99% of the time. So I have very little hands-on experience with building a PC from scratch. I will be using a combination of online guides and my A+ textbook to build this PC.

2. Are all the parts I chose compatible and are they the best combination for the money (MOBO, Processor, RAM)

3. Can I buy Windows XP OEM? I am under the impression you just have to purchase hardware with it to be able to buy it OEM.

4. Should I wait to buy these parts because of the new 939 CPUs? Will prices be coming down on the parts I want any time soon?

5. I understand a fan will come with the CPU since I'm buying it retail, but how many case fans should I purchase? One? Two? None?

Thank you for your time and help!
 

tomstevens26

Senior member
Sep 21, 2001
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I don't know anything about that case, but I think everything else looks good. You also might want to consider the Shuttle AN35N Ultra motherboard. I've built several systems with it and they are pretty solid. It's around the same price, and maybe even a little cheaper. Now, to answer some of your questions...

1. Building it's pretty easy. Just take your time and don't rush anything. Mechbgon has a pretty good guide (I'm sure someone can post the link) so if you follow that you shouldn't have any problems.

2. All of the parts should be fine. See my note about another motherboard, and for that price you might want to check out the Antec SLK3700AMB case. It's a 350W PSU, but it's a good unit.

3. I think Newegg will sell you the OEM version but you may have to buy a Microsoft mouse or something to "qualify" for the purchase.

4. You can always wait. :) Personally, I don't think the prices on these parts will drop a whole lot. I think supply will dry up and that will be the end of it. Exceptions would be the DVD and the RAM prices. RAM could always come down as it's still a bit high IMO.

5. Yes, the retail CPU will come with a fan. Check the specs on that case to see what fans, if any, it comes with. The SLK37000AMB I mentioned comes with one rear 120mm exhaust fan, and then two fans on the PSU. You might also want to add a front intake fan, especially if you're going to overclock that 2500+. And yes, you can use the retail heatsink and fan that comes with that CPU when overclocking it to the 3200+ speeds. You'll just want to keep an eye on the temps for a while when first using it.

I hope that helps!

Tom
 
Jun 1, 2004
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I checked out the motherboard you mentioned. It's about ten bucks cheaper and they have the same rating, but I'm wondering a couple things:

- The one I chose has listed under IDE "2x ATA 133 up to 4 Devices" and the one you mentioned has "2x UltraDMA 133 up to 4 Devices." Can you explain the difference?

- The one I chose has a 6-channel audio card and yours has 5.1. I'm not going to have an amazing sound setup (probably two speakers and a sub), but does this matter that much? And have you had problems with the audio? A couple people mentioned it in their reviews on NewEgg.
 

tomstevens26

Senior member
Sep 21, 2001
700
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- The IDE controllers are the same...they just use different descriptions. Technically, (someone correct me if I'm wrong) ATA is how they physically attach, and UDMA is what transfers and speeds they are capable of. Still, they are the same. They both have 2 ATA/IDE controllers that support UDMA 133 speeds, and each controllers can support 2 devices (one master, one slave) for a total of 4.

- 6 channel is the same as 5.1. Again, it's just a different description. 5 speakers (two fronts, two rears, one center) and a subwoofer = 6 channel audio. Both of those motherboards actually use the same audio controller because they both use the nforce2 chipset.

Does that help?

Tom
 
Jun 1, 2004
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So they're basically the same motherbaord then? Guess I'll be going with your recommendation.

Also, I thought of two more questions:

- Is it necessary to "burn-in" my computer after I have it put together and can I find instructions on how to do that online?

- Will all my parts come with the cables I need? I would assume they do.
 

tomstevens26

Senior member
Sep 21, 2001
700
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They are pretty much the same board, just different manufacturers. They use the same chipset...nVidia's nForce2.

- I've never burned in any of my PCs. I figure as long as they are working and doing what I need them to do then everything is fine. :) If you do want to burn it in then Google for a program called Prime95 and just let it run.

- If you bought that hard drive retail (which I'm assuming it is the retail version since you got it at CompUSA) then you'll have the necessary cabling for it. The motherboard will also come with one IDE cable and one floppy drive cable so you should have everything you need. You shouldn't need any audio cables going from the optical drives. Keep in mind that OEM products like hard drives and optical drives typically do not come with any cables. They are usually just the bare drive. Like I mentioned though, you should be covered because your retail hard drive should come with one cable and your motherboard will come with one. Each cable will support two devices.

Have you decided where you are going to order from? Be sure to check Newegg and ZipZoomFly if you haven't already. Good luck on the first build. Let us know how it goes!

Tom
 

SBC

Junior Member
Jun 1, 2004
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what you have is adequate, but you can always upgrade bit by bit from stock standard to the high end stuff. so worries with your parts. mayb you might like to get some1 to check all the connections to make sure and then you can learn from your mistakes if any
 
Jun 1, 2004
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What cables will I need to run from the USB ports on the motherboard to the USB ports on the front of the case so I can use them? And is that as difficult as it sounds?
 

tomstevens26

Senior member
Sep 21, 2001
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The cables (provided the ports are built into the front of the case) are included. They should already be attached to the ports and you just have to connect them to the pins on the motherboard. I always have to use a little trial and error when connecting those. If you're lucky then they will be in a block and you'll only have one or two ways in which they'll fit. If not, then you might want to make a new post here asking for help with that when you get the system.

Tom
 

Mermaidman

Diamond Member
Sep 4, 2003
7,987
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Originally posted by: TylerD
What cables will I need to run from the USB ports on the motherboard to the USB ports on the front of the case so I can use them? And is that as difficult as it sounds?
TomStevens is correct, the cables come with the case and you attach them to the motherboard. Each USB cable has 4 or 5 individual wires and the trick is to match them up to the motherboard's pins. Actually, there's no trick, just study the wires and the mobo's manual and pin layout carefully. Tweezers might be handy to have.

Same challenge comes with attaching the wires for the power switch, reset switch, LEDs, etc.

Good luck, I know you'll have fun and a sense of accomplishment when done!

BTW--Do you really need that floppy drive? It's so last millennium :D
 

DKlein

Senior member
Aug 29, 2002
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I forget where, but I remember hearing that burning in did nothing to help your computer and by all means would only hurt it. The reason companies do it is to ensure that they're not giving out faulty products=returns/RMAs/pissed off customers.
 
Jun 1, 2004
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Hey, I went to buy all this stuff and I realized the Athlon 2500+ Barton has a 333 mhz FSB. How did I come up with 400? I thought I just copied and pasted.

So in light of this, should I consider a different kind of RAM (2700) so that it's in sync with the processor? If it's not an issue to have PC3200 RAM with a 333 mhz FSB, I'd rather just use 3200 RAM in case I upgrade the processor to one with a 400 mhz FSB sometime.
 

tomstevens26

Senior member
Sep 21, 2001
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong....

But you'll want the PC3200 RAM if you're going to overclock that 2500+ to a 3200+, which would mean you'd be doing a FSB of 200, doubled to the 400FSB you mentioned. You might have some luck in getting PC2700 RAM that will clock at 3200, but you might as well just spring for the 3200 RAM from the start.

Tom
 
Jun 1, 2004
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Halfway through building the PC, I turned it on and made sure the MOBO was working and everything. It read my processor wrong, but supposedly that's a common problem and the BIOS just needs updated. Well, now everything's in the case and hooked up, and I'm not getting any signal to the monitor. Everything comes on, everything works. But I'm not getting a signal.

The monitor is connected securely and the videocard is on (the fan on the card spins). I'm thinking the problem has to do with the videocard not sitting in the slot properly. It did this on my last PC as well; it just doesn't want to sit quite right as far as how it looks from the back of the PC. The actual 'gold' parts sit in the slot perfectly fine.

Are there any ideas as to what else the problem could be or if it must be something with the videocard not sitting right?
 
Jun 1, 2004
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- By the way, I've already tried another monitor with no luck.

- I finally got the videocard to sit properly on the mobo.

- I am getting one beep when the PC is turned on.


This is incredibly frustrating.
 

Markfw

Moderator Emeritus, Elite Member
May 16, 2002
26,284
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Go back to where it was working. Make sure it still does, and then procede one step at a time until it doesn;t, and you have your answer (unless you burned out the mobo or something in the process)
 
Jun 1, 2004
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It was working when I had the motherboard not screwed in the case, and only the RAM, videocard, and CPU/heatsink on it. This is going to be a pain, but I'll get on it.

In the mean time, does anyone have the slightest idea what the problem could be?
 

Markfw

Moderator Emeritus, Elite Member
May 16, 2002
26,284
15,419
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well, you either did the standoffs wrong (added one where it shouldn't be) or didn;t put them in, or put the cables on wrong.
 
Jun 1, 2004
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Ok, I've got it working now. Everything is connected except for the firewire card and any of the front connectors (except the power button one).

What exactly should be happening? I get the Phoenix BIOS screen and it acknowledges the DVD burner, CD burner, and hard drive (doesn't say anything either positive or negative about the floppy). When it's done, it says press F1 to continue or DEL to enter setup, but pressing either of those buttons does nothing (I had this problem the first time I tested it with the motherboard out of the case). Is the keyboard not working or is this normal? What do I do?
 

Matthias99

Diamond Member
Oct 7, 2003
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Originally posted by: TylerD
Ok, I've got it working now. Everything is connected except for the firewire card and any of the front connectors (except the power button one).

What exactly should be happening? I get the Phoenix BIOS screen and it acknowledges the DVD burner, CD burner, and hard drive (doesn't say anything either positive or negative about the floppy). When it's done, it says press F1 to continue or DEL to enter setup, but pressing either of those buttons does nothing (I had this problem the first time I tested it with the motherboard out of the case). Is the keyboard not working or is this normal? What do I do?

Either you have a bad keyboard, or it's not plugged in, or you plugged it into the wrong port (make sure you're not in the mouse port; the color-coding is sometimes different, and it's easy to screw them up even if it's right).
 

waitman

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2002
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It should continue or enter setup when you press the key, are you sure you have the keyboard properly connected? Try to unplug then plug back in and try again. I have the nf7s and it would continue on its own after so many seconds.
 
Jun 1, 2004
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I've tried it in both the keyboard and mouse ports just for giggles; it doesn't work either way. I'll try it again just in case I'm crazy or something....