Build Assistance

[thedoormat]

1. What YOUR PC will be used for. That means what types of tasks you'll be performing.
Low end work computer. Word/Excel/Browser/Email etc

2. What YOUR budget is. A price range is acceptable as long as it's not more than a 20% spread
$350-450

3. What country YOU will be buying YOUR parts from.
US

5. IF YOU have a brand preference.
Preferably Intel.

6. If YOU intend on using any of YOUR current parts, and if so, what those parts are.
HDD. I have about 3-4 250GB, SATA drives. I think they are 3gbps drives.

7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.
No overclocking.

8. What resolution, not monitor size, will you be using?
1920x1080

9. WHEN do you plan to build it?
Before the end of the year. Between TG and xmas.

10. Do you need to purchase any software to go with the system, such as Windows or Blu Ray playback software?
No.

PC Part Picker Link
I am trying to build a budget build, with an eye on being able to keep it running smoothly, and the ability to add RAM as software demands increase.

I plan on making 2 identical builds (I have 2 Dells, that are about 7 and 8 years old respectively, with one maxed at 2GB RAM).

My questions are as follows:
1. Are there any incompatibilities in the existing build?
2. If I was to make 2 identical builds, could I split the RAM (2x8GB) that is in the part picker list between the two computers (one stick/PC)?
3. Are there any recommendations for either a better performing PSU or a less expensive one? Ideally, without sacrificing reliability.
4. Would the CPU cooler work with the case selected?
5. Would it even be worth buying a CPU cooler, or would the stock one suffice? At $20, I don't mind buying the after market cooler, but I was wondering if there was a reason not to.
6. I know the CPU is going to be on sale for BF. That should bring down my build cost to $410-420, and if I can split the RAM, it would bring it to about $390/PC. Any other areas where I can save $$ without sacrificing too much?
7. I know I do not have an optical drive, but I'll see if I can salvage them from the older builds these are replacing, or buy the least expensive one at time of build if they turn out to be IDE.

Thanks in advance for any advice/suggestions.
The Doormat

 

[Ken g6]

1. Are there any incompatibilities in the existing build?

I don't see any.

2. If I was to make 2 identical builds, could I split the RAM (2x8GB) that is in the part picker list between the two computers (one stick/PC)?

Yes, but RAM runs better in pairs.

4. Would the CPU cooler work with the case selected?
5. Would it even be worth buying a CPU cooler, or would the stock one suffice?

Just go stock.

Any other areas where I can save $$ without sacrificing too much?

Quite a few. How about this build?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: *Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($119.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: *Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($54.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: *G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($42.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: *Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($61.49 @ Amazon)
Case: *Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($33.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: *Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: *LG 24MB35PU-B 60Hz 23.8" Monitor ($64.85 @ Newegg)
Total: $403.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-19 16:04 EST-0500

I included a 120GB SSD, so your applications will run much faster. (That monitor is on a crazy sale, by the way.)

 

[Spydermag68]

The monitor is OOS.

 

[Ken g6]

That's why I kept the price well under $450, though. Here's another monitor for $35 more.

 

[thedoormat]

I don't see any.
Yes, but RAM runs better in pairs.

Just go stock.


Quite a few. How about this build?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: *Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($119.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: *Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($54.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: *G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($42.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: *Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($61.49 @ Amazon)
Case: *Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($33.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: *Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: *LG 24MB35PU-B 60Hz 23.8" Monitor ($64.85 @ Newegg)
Total: $403.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-19 16:04 EST-0500

I included a 120GB SSD, so your applications will run much faster. (That monitor is on a crazy sale, by the way.)

Hi Ken,

I appreciate the quick response. Fry's is going to have a 24" Acer monitor on sale. I am waiting to see which one (they have a TN panel and an IPS). In either case, unless I manage to catch an insane sale, I expect to spend about 90-120 on a monitor.

As for an SSD, computer never gets shut off, so HDD would be sufficient. Hence the requirement for reliability. I have some WD velociraptor drives, that are about 7-8 years old and they have been work horses. I plan on using that as my drive and the data is all backed up online, so I'd rather save that for something that might come in useful later (or just stash it under my pillow!)

I appreciate the info about the PSU. Is that a reliable model? Again, at the risk of beating a dead horse, this is going to be ON 24/7.

I completely missed looking at DDR4. I don't keep a pulse on computer tech anymore, and I almost said why the 6100, until I noticed you dropped the RAM to 8GB instead of 16, which is making me look at this in greater detail.

We also have a higher end computer at work that does a lot of heavy 3D CAD work. Would it be wise to look to upgrade that machine as well, or should we wait until DDR4 has had some time in the market?

Thanks for all the assistance.

 

[Ken g6]

As for an SSD, computer never gets shut off, so HDD would be sufficient.

SSDs aren't just about starting a computer quickly. They're about starting anything disk-related on a computer quickly. Start up Word? Very quick. Load a document? Instant. They also don't wear out from uptime like spinning disks do.

I appreciate the info about the PSU. Is that a reliable model? Again, at the risk of beating a dead horse, this is going to be ON 24/7.

It's pretty good. If you want really reliable, and to use less power, you could get a Seasonic 300W PSU. It comes with a 3 year warranty. Be aware, though: it doesn't come with a power cable!

We also have a higher end computer at work that does a lot of heavy 3D CAD work. Would it be wise to look to upgrade that machine as well, or should we wait until DDR4 has had some time in the market?

DDR4 has had some time in the higher-end market. If you want, you could post the current machine's specs and a budget in a new thread.

 

[thedoormat]

Hi Ken,

Thanks for the quick response again. I think I will go with the Seasonic. I have spare cables (probably about half a dozen) laying around from older machines, and obviously the cable from the machine this will be replacing.

In regards to the higher end machine, the pc part picker list. Just wondering if I should wait until upgrading, since this was just built last year, around this same time.

 

[Ken g6]

In regards to the higher end machine, the pc part picker list. Just wondering if I should wait until upgrading, since this was just built last year, around this same time.

Nope, no reason to upgrade from that.

 

[thedoormat]

Thanks for everything. Greatly appreciate it.