Budget/mid-range gaming system component recomendations

OakIris

Junior Member
Jan 26, 2013
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My current computer is still working just fine but it is ancient in computer terms, having been built in October of 2010, so I think it is time for an upgrade. I am also considering getting back into gaming after a hiatus of five or so years and figure I need something a bit more capable to handle the current games and - hopefully - those of the next few years. Besides which, it is fun to build a new system from time to time. Although nothing I will be doing with the computer will be all that taxing, and I certainly don't need - nor could I afford - bleeding edge, I do need components with some "future proofing" since, as you can see, it will probably be a few years down the road before I will be able to build another one.

Here is my current system:
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 965 BE C3
CPU Cooling: Corsair H50 Hydro with Scythe Gentle Typhoon Fans
Mainboard: MSI 790FX-GD70
RAM: G.Skills Ripjaws DDR3 1600; 8 GB
SSD: 2X Intel 25M; 80 GB
HHD: WD Caviar Black; 1TB
CD/DVD: ASUS DRW-24B1ST
Graphics: Sapphire Vapor-X Radeon HD 5850
Audio: On board audio or External FooBar DAC to speakers;
headphones; tube amps
PSU: Corsair 850HX PSU
Case: Corsair 800D
Monitors: Center HP ZR24W 24”; left/right HP 2159m 21.5”
Keyboard/Mouse: Déck keyboard with Cherry MX Blue key switches; Logitech MX Revolution
OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit

Future build info:

1. What YOUR PC will be used for. That means what types of tasks you'll be performing.
Internet browsing, email, office suite apps, moderate gaming (mostly FPS's but hope to branch out)

2. What YOUR budget is. A price range is acceptable as long as it's not more than a 20% spread
$1000
3. What country YOU will be buying YOUR parts from.
USA

4. IF you're buying parts OUTSIDE the US, please post a link to the vendor you'll be buying from.
We can't be expected to scour the internet on your behalf, chasing down deals in your specific country... Again, help us, help YOU. N/A

5. IF YOU have a brand preference. That means, are you an Intel-Fanboy, AMD-Fanboy, ATI-Fanboy, nVidia-Fanboy, Seagate-Fanboy, WD-Fanboy, etc.
No particular brand preference as a rule but this time around I would like to have an Intel CPU. Also, given the positive experience I have had with the Corsair Hydro CPU cooler system - their original model, still going strong in my system - I am leaning towards getting their H100i v2 Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler for this new build

6. If YOU intend on using any of YOUR current parts, and if so, what those parts are.
Monitors; keyboard and mouse;optical drive; my Corsair case; the audio set up; and current SSD and HHD drives but would like to add a larger SSD (m.2 ??) drive as the boot drive; PSU unless that would be considered rather foolish with a new build since it is a bit "long in the tooth."

7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.
No plans to overclock at this time.

8. What resolution, not monitor size, will you be using?
Using a tri-monitor set up; there are constraints due to only one being an IPS panel and the fact that they are different size monitors, but that upgrade will have to wait for another time; 5760 X 1080

9. WHEN do you plan to build it?
Note that it is usually not cost or time effective to choose your build more than a month before you actually plan to be using it. << Understood, but I like to do a lot of research and won't have the $$ until spring of next year; plenty of time to make adjustments.

10. Do you need to purchase any software to go with the system, such as Windows or Blu Ray playback software?
Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit

Please let me know what components you would recommend as decent, somewhat future-proof upgrades for my "new" budget-ish computer system.

Holly
 
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OakIris

Junior Member
Jan 26, 2013
12
0
66
Views but no comments or recommendations. Oh well, I'm on my own! :) Thanks for looking.

Holly
 

lehtv

Elite Member
Dec 8, 2010
11,897
74
91
I would spend some more money to get a better motherboard then a H110 based one. Go with a H170 instead.
Why not B150? Difference between that and H170 is basically nil for the stated purposes
 

nsafreak

Diamond Member
Oct 16, 2001
7,093
3
81
Some of monkey's choices I agree with, others I do not. Here's my proposed build, keep in mind as has been stated that prices do change between now and spring:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($191.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock H170A-X1/3.1 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($79.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: A-Data Premier SP550 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING Video Card ($389.99 @ B&H)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($98.99 @ My Choice Software)
Total: $950.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-10 20:24 EST-0500


I did not include a new PSU as the unit you have is a high quality unit and should still be good. However if you really want to replace it I would not downgrade to a questionable 500 watt unit from EVGA. They have some nice units built under their brand, however that is not one of them. I would recommend instead an EVGA SuperNova G2 550, it's a solid unit that should last a good while. Right now it would bring the build to $30 over budget but it wouldn't surprise me if it's on sale around that time or other components have a lower price.
 
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Ken g6

Programming Moderator, Elite Member
Moderator
Dec 11, 1999
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I mostly agree with nsafreak, except using fast RAM with an H mobo makes the RAM run at stock. You should pick either slower RAM or a Z board.
 
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lehtv

Elite Member
Dec 8, 2010
11,897
74
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Can't recommend the EVGA ACX 3.0 card due to issues with VRM cooling. Gigabyte G1 Gaming is pretty good for $395 AR.

You'll want a Kaby Lake CPU (i5-7500?) and a 200-series chipset board by the time you're ready to buy. There are also other changes I'd make due to price/features or price/perf, but it's really not useful to lock on to any particular SSD, RAM etc. this early on.
 

nsafreak

Diamond Member
Oct 16, 2001
7,093
3
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Can't recommend the EVGA ACX 3.0 card due to issues with VRM cooling. Gigabyte G1 Gaming is pretty good for $395 AR.

You'll want a Kaby Lake CPU (i5-7500?) and a 200-series chipset board by the time you're ready to buy. There are also other changes I'd make due to price/features or price/perf, but it's really not useful to lock on to any particular SSD, RAM etc. this early on.

The issues with EVGA ACX 3.0 cards have already been addressed with a VBIOS update which by the time the op purchases will be loaded on the majority of the cards on the shelves. Presuming Kaby Lake comes out on time and it is the same time the op is purchasing then yes I would recommend Kaby Lake as well.
 

OakIris

Junior Member
Jan 26, 2013
12
0
66
Thank you for all of your responses! I realize there will be price changes between now and when I can actually build my system but thought that if I can get a good system configuration figured out now, the prices will surely fit my budget by then, right?!? (Please leave me my delusions! :p )

To save a bit of money, I have decided to go with Windows 10 Home version. The Pro version just happened to be the free upgrade my current computer received because it was running Windows 7 Pro, so I included the Pro version in my new build specs, but I have no real need for extras that come with Windows 10 Pro So, that saves me about $30. Yay!

I wasn't sure about the PSU. I have had no problems with the one I am currently using, but thought, perhaps incorrectly, that it was always wise to install a new PSU when you build a new system. The PSU is 6+ years old so I thought it might be time for a replacement. If the consensus is that this is not necessary, very cool. Maybe I can put the money towards a new monitor! If I do replace the PSU, I would prefer going with a Corsair.gold certified PSU or the equivalent - the old.

Even if there are some price drops, I may have to throw some more money at this build, lol. I am leaning towards getting one of the Z170 motherboards with either a Core i5 or i7 CPU. I just think that the Z170 is more versatile and gives me a some "future proofing," since my system builds are always years in between.

This is what I have come up with so far, more of a "dream system" - for me anyway - than a budget/mid-range system. I know I will have to pare it down, with the keyboard and mouse no doubt the first to go, but it was fun to pretend that I could have such a system. The total comes to $1644.62, so I only have to get rid of $665 to stay under budget. :p

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 8M $329.00
Motherboard: GIGABYTE G1 Gaming GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 (rev. 1.0) $193.98
Memory: Mushkin Enhanced 16GB (2 x 8GB) Redline DDR4 3200 $87.99
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 GTX 1070 GAMING X 8G $388.75
Power Supply: Corsiar 650W RMx Series RM650X (CP-9020091-NA) $99.99
Storage: Samsung 500GB 850 EVO MZ-75E500B/AM $168.95
CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H100i GTX (CW-9060021-WW) $94.99
Mouse: Corsair M65 PRO RGB FPS $49.99
Keyboard: Corsair K70 LUX RGB $140.99
Windows: Microsoft Windows 10 Home - 64-bit $80.00

Thoughts?

Holly
 

whm1974

Diamond Member
Jul 24, 2016
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A H170 board will do just as good if you are not going to overclock. A good keyboard is great to have and will last a long time.
 

lehtv

Elite Member
Dec 8, 2010
11,897
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The issues with EVGA ACX 3.0 cards have already been addressed with a VBIOS update which by the time the op purchases will be loaded on the majority of the cards on the shelves. Presuming Kaby Lake comes out on time and it is the same time the op is purchasing then yes I would recommend Kaby Lake as well.

The BIOS update addresses the issue by considerably increasing fan speeds. This makes the ACX 3.0 cooler noisy compared to the competition from Palit, Gainward, Gigabyte, , thus it's still not worth buying.

The only way to properly fix the source of the problem without downsides is to install the thermal pads that EVGA provides for free and not update the BIOS. But essentially this is buying an incomplete product that you then have to tinker with in order to make it worth the money. The only way I'd buy (or recommend anyone else to buy) a GTX 1070 with the ACX 3.0 cooler is if EVGA itself installs the thermal pads into new batches.
 

lehtv

Elite Member
Dec 8, 2010
11,897
74
91
A H170 board will do just as good if you are not going to overclock.
A B150 board will do just as good as H170 if you're not going to overclock. H170 is a pointless chipset unless it's on a board that just happens to be cheaper than an equivalent B150 board, or you must have Intel firmware RAID.

But again, he/she is not buying until spring next year, by which time 200-series chipsets will be available.
 

whm1974

Diamond Member
Jul 24, 2016
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A B150 board will do just as good as H170 if you're not going to overclock. H170 is a pointless chipset unless it's on a board that just happens to be cheaper than an equivalent B150 board, or you must have Intel firmware RAID.

But again, he/she is not buying until spring next year, by which time 200-series chipsets will be available.
 

whm1974

Diamond Member
Jul 24, 2016
9,436
1,572
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A B150 board will do just as good as H170 if you're not going to overclock. H170 is a pointless chipset unless it's on a board that just happens to be cheaper than an equivalent B150 board, or you must have Intel firmware RAID.

But again, he/she is not buying until spring next year, by which time 200-series chipsets will be available.
Yeah the H250 would be a good enough chipset next year when it's released.