Question Brand New Build. Won't Boot. RGB Components Don't Even Light Up With Power Supply Plugged In.

Rocketlucco

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May 17, 2008
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Issue: Brand new build. When plugged in, no components lights up except Motherboard logo. Start/Power buttons do nothing. Computer won't boot.
Parts: Asus ROG Strix X670E-E AM5 Motherboard | AMD 7950X3D CPU | Geforce 4090 | G. Skill Trident Z5 RGB Series 32gbx2 | Cooler Master ML240 Illusion AIO Cooler | Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 1000W ATX 3.0 | Hynix P41 M.2 SSD x2 | Crucial M.2 SSD x1 | Seagate 14TB 3.5inch Hard Drivex1 | Case: Azza Regis

Detailed Information
First new computer in a decade. When I plugged the finished build in and turned the power supply on (but before hitting the start button), it was immediately apparent there was an issue because none of the RGB components lit up. The only component that lit up was the “STRIX” in the upper left of the motherboard-- It fully lit up and would transition between different colors. The case and the AIO cooler have RGB that were plugged into addressable RGB slots on the mother & the G.Skill ram has inherent RBG, but all of that stayed dark.

Here are two direct images of my Motherboard with all components/connectors labeled which can be referred to when reading my description of things below:
The power button does nothing. The motherboard also has a "start" button inherently built into the board with no wiring, which is supposed to be able to boot the computer, and that also does nothing when pressed. I think this rules out an I/O power button wiring issue.

The motherboard has two features to show errors: A Q-Code LED which displays numerical error codes & the strip of Q-LEDs that will show a red light to indicate if the issue if there is an issue with CPU/DRAM/VGA/BOOT. Neither lit up.

Three potential issues that came up during the build:
1. The first time I plugged it in I had only connected the 24 pin ATX-PWR on the motherboard to my power supply, as I did not realize I also needed to plug in the two ATX_12V_1&2 connectors as well. A little red light turned on next to the ATX_12V power connectors letting me know my error. I went back and wired that up and the little red light disappeared the next time I plugged it back in.

2. While looking everything up to type up this post, I noticed that G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB Series says (Intel XMP). I didn’t know RAM was cpu specific. I googled this just now and it seems like most people say it actually doesn’t matter and any ram can be used with any CPU? The ram slotted into the motherboard just fine. Even if the RAM was incompatible, wouldn’t other components still light up and I would just get an error with the RAM?

3. The main part of the build I had issues with was securing the AIO cooler over my CPU. It is an AM4/5 compatible AIO which means it works with the stock AM5 motherboard. The AM5 back plate has two hook-like curvatures & so the AIO includes a square bracket on each side that slides around the hook, and then tightens with a hand screw. It was difficult to get one side to securely hook in, so I had to pre-tighten it, and then just push down with mild force to get it to slip around the hook. Could this somehow be applying too much force on the CPU? Could it be making contact where it shouldn’t and creating a short or something? Picture attached.

-----

Other than those 3 things above, I can’t think of anything else I did wrong. The current problem seems pretty major issue given that nothing on the motherboard other than the logo will even light up with just latent power. I imagine I’ve probably screwed up something silly and easy that has to do with the power supply – Motherboard interaction. I can totally myself making a dumb error given how long it's been since I last built a computer.

Any ideas on what I should do next to try and troubleshoot this?
 
Last edited:

BoomerD

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Feb 26, 2006
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Best solution is to take it all apart and build it out of the case on a non-conductive surface. Many people use the motherboard box. Start with ONLY the board, cpu, cooler, ONE stick of RAM, and your graphics card. Connect the power supply as necessary. Check your motherboard manual for which two pins to *short" in order to get it to start.
(BTW, all the ARGB lights shouldn't come on just because you turn on the power supply...those generally require the computer to be booted up and running)

 
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Rocketlucco

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May 17, 2008
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Best solution is to take it all apart and byild it out of the case on a non-conductive surface. Many people use the motherboard box. Start with ONLY the board, cpu, cooler, ONE stick of RAM, and your graphics card. Connect the power supply as necessary. Check your motherboard manual for which two pins to *short" in order to get it to start.
(BTW, all the ARGB lights shouldn't come on just because you turn on the power supply...those generally require the computer to be booted up and running)


My motherboard had a "Start" button inherently built into the board with no wiring. The manual says this will boot the computer if pressed. Does that take the place of the 2 pin shorting trick (I've never heard of this).
 

In2Photos

Golden Member
Mar 21, 2007
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My motherboard had a "Start" button inherently built into the board with no wiring. The manual says this will boot the computer if pressed. Does that take the place of the 2 pin shorting trick (I've never heard of this).
Yes, that is fine. Shorting the pins is the same thing as pushing the power button that's connected to those same pins.
 

BoomerD

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Feb 26, 2006
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My motherboard had a "Start" button inherently built into the board with no wiring. The manual says this will boot the computer if pressed. Does that take the place of the 2 pin shorting trick (I've never heard of this).

Yes indeed. Not all/many boards have the built-in "START" switch.

Contact the seller...see if the RAM is returnable. You REALLY SHOULD get RAM that's on the ASUS QVL.
 
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Rocketlucco

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UPDATE #1 - 3/18
I took the very helpful advice I got here and started removing and reseat parts, and then if it still didn't work, I would just take the parts out all together. In order:
  1. Verified wall power outlet works-- Check. It does
  2. Reseated every single power cable on both ends and made sure correct cables were being used- No change
  3. Reseated Both RAM Sticks - No Change. Double checked their locations as well.
  4. Tried Booting with Just 1 ram stick -- No change.
  5. Removed video card. Used motherboard's internal Graphics connected via HDMI- No change
  6. Unplugged the only SATA hard drive- No change
  7. Removed AIO cooler-- No change
  8. Fiddled around with front I/O power- No change
I did not remove the power supply and try it with another PC yet. That is a giant pain in the ass and I'd rather explore the two issues I found below before I do this. I will do it if I have to. Also the motherboard logo is lighting up and there is an audible hum, so that means it is receiving some power.
When I say no change, what I mean is as follows: Upon plugging in the PC to the power supply and turning on the power suppy's on-switch, the Motherboard logo will light up and transition between different colors. There will be a small persistent audible hum. Upon trying to boot the PC either using the button on the case OR the "start" button inherently built into the motherboard, nothing happens. No fans turn on, no RGB turns on, the monitor never displays anything, both the Motherboard's Q-Code LED and Q-LED strips used to detected errors never light up or display anything at all.
I will share what I did notice which may be abnormal and I'd like your input:

#1: After removing the AIO I inspected the CPU itself. I saw it was correctly oriented and completely secure in place. I undid the locking mechanism and removed it. The CPU itself looked fine, but I noticed there was a non-uniformity in the pins of the motherboard where the CPU goes. I took pictures: These might be bent pins? No clue how that could have happened since I put the CPU in the correct orientation. I did mention above that I struggled getting the AIO in place. Could the pressure from that have done it? Even if the CPU was securely locked in?
Also, even if this was damaged, could this explain a complete inability to post at all? No fan spin, no RGB? Wouldn't it still boot and give me a CPU error?
If this is the issue I am completely in the return for replacement window on the motherboard and can just do that for free.

#2: Upon inspecting the power cables I noticed 1 slot on the 24-pin connector does not have a little metal rim. I also saw this on a 12x connector so I bet it's normal, but I just wanted to mention it. Picture attached:
#3: Looking at the instruction manual for the motherboard, it looks like there's 2 different locations the system power LED pins can go. On the top left or on the bottom right. Is there a "right" choice here? Initially I had them in the top right and verified the + and - were in the right slots. Today I tried them in the bottom left configuration. No difference. Also, I still have the inherent built in "start" button on the motherboard, which allows the PC to boot regardless of the case's power switch. Picture from manual attached: https://imgur.com/a/G9EO4QC

#4: Looking at the power supply, there seems to be duplicate spots the ATX_12V_1&2 for the motherboard power can go. Originally, I had them in the bottom slots next to the 24PIN_ATX. During my second set of trials today I tried moving them to the top spots next to the 12VHPWR for the video card. Not sure if there is a "right" choice here? Picture attached: https://imgur.com/a/bPR7MRk

As an aside, I just want to ask a quick other question. While doing all this I accidentaly got some thermal paste on the bottom of the CPU. Do I need to clean it off? Can it damage the CPU? The brand of thermal paste is Coolermaster Master Gel Pro. Picture of bottom of CPU attached with my dirty thermal paste hand: https://imgur.com/a/rYanj0U

Your input has been so helpful so far. I would love more input based on this update. Thank you
 

Rocketlucco

Junior Member
May 17, 2008
19
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Yes indeed. Not all/many boards have the built-in "START" switch.

Contact the seller...see if the RAM is returnable. You REALLY SHOULD get RAM that's on the ASUS QVL.

Do you think the RAM could really be causing this big of an issue? I have had many replies in other places I posted saying the RAM mismatch is not a real issue at all. That's also what articles I've googled say.

Or is this more like an aside, as in the RAM likely isn't doing this, but I should switch it out anyway for a better match?
 

bba-tcg

Senior member
Apr 8, 2010
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I read through all that, but may have missed it. Did you use the BIOS flashback to flash to the latest BIOS? The 7950X3D is a new processor, which will require the latest firmware in order to work.

Edit: Also, you do realize that your motherboard link links to the Z790, not the X670E, right?
 
Last edited:

In2Photos

Golden Member
Mar 21, 2007
1,625
1,647
136
UPDATE #1 - 3/18
I took the very helpful advice I got here and started removing and reseat parts, and then if it still didn't work, I would just take the parts out all together. In order:
  1. Verified wall power outlet works-- Check. It does
  2. Reseated every single power cable on both ends and made sure correct cables were being used- No change
  3. Reseated Both RAM Sticks - No Change. Double checked their locations as well.
  4. Tried Booting with Just 1 ram stick -- No change.
  5. Removed video card. Used motherboard's internal Graphics connected via HDMI- No change
  6. Unplugged the only SATA hard drive- No change
  7. Removed AIO cooler-- No change
  8. Fiddled around with front I/O power- No change
I did not remove the power supply and try it with another PC yet. That is a giant pain in the ass and I'd rather explore the two issues I found below before I do this. I will do it if I have to. Also the motherboard logo is lighting up and there is an audible hum, so that means it is receiving some power.
When I say no change, what I mean is as follows: Upon plugging in the PC to the power supply and turning on the power suppy's on-switch, the Motherboard logo will light up and transition between different colors. There will be a small persistent audible hum. Upon trying to boot the PC either using the button on the case OR the "start" button inherently built into the motherboard, nothing happens. No fans turn on, no RGB turns on, the monitor never displays anything, both the Motherboard's Q-Code LED and Q-LED strips used to detected errors never light up or display anything at all.
I will share what I did notice which may be abnormal and I'd like your input:

#1: After removing the AIO I inspected the CPU itself. I saw it was correctly oriented and completely secure in place. I undid the locking mechanism and removed it. The CPU itself looked fine, but I noticed there was a non-uniformity in the pins of the motherboard where the CPU goes. I took pictures: These might be bent pins? No clue how that could have happened since I put the CPU in the correct orientation. I did mention above that I struggled getting the AIO in place. Could the pressure from that have done it? Even if the CPU was securely locked in?
Also, even if this was damaged, could this explain a complete inability to post at all? No fan spin, no RGB? Wouldn't it still boot and give me a CPU error?
If this is the issue I am completely in the return for replacement window on the motherboard and can just do that for free.

#2: Upon inspecting the power cables I noticed 1 slot on the 24-pin connector does not have a little metal rim. I also saw this on a 12x connector so I bet it's normal, but I just wanted to mention it. Picture attached:
#3: Looking at the instruction manual for the motherboard, it looks like there's 2 different locations the system power LED pins can go. On the top left or on the bottom right. Is there a "right" choice here? Initially I had them in the top right and verified the + and - were in the right slots. Today I tried them in the bottom left configuration. No difference. Also, I still have the inherent built in "start" button on the motherboard, which allows the PC to boot regardless of the case's power switch. Picture from manual attached: https://imgur.com/a/G9EO4QC

#4: Looking at the power supply, there seems to be duplicate spots the ATX_12V_1&2 for the motherboard power can go. Originally, I had them in the bottom slots next to the 24PIN_ATX. During my second set of trials today I tried moving them to the top spots next to the 12VHPWR for the video card. Not sure if there is a "right" choice here? Picture attached: https://imgur.com/a/bPR7MRk

As an aside, I just want to ask a quick other question. While doing all this I accidentaly got some thermal paste on the bottom of the CPU. Do I need to clean it off? Can it damage the CPU? The brand of thermal paste is Coolermaster Master Gel Pro. Picture of bottom of CPU attached with my dirty thermal paste hand: https://imgur.com/a/rYanj0U

Your input has been so helpful so far. I would love more input based on this update. Thank you
First of all you do not have to remove the PSU to use another one. Simply disconnect all of the cables from the installed PSU and connect ones from a known working PSU sitting outside of the case.

Second, the bent/broken pins on the motherboard are likely your problem. You could either send back the motherboard (depending on the vendor you used, like Newegg, be prepared for them to charge some sort of restocking fee) or you could try to straighten out the pins yourself if they are still intact. I've seen several people use a sewing needle, a magnifying glass, and LOTS of patience. There are several vides on YouTube that could be of assistance. And yes, it is possible that the AIO installation caused this problem. Mounting pressure should be uniform and applied in a cross pattern if possible.

Third, you need to remove the thermal paste on the back of the CPU. Wipe as much off with a paper towel and use a Q-tip and isopropyl alcohol to finish the job.

The "missing pin" in the 24-pin connector is fine, that spot has no connection. And it should not matter which CPU/PCIe connections you use from the PSU, but use 2 of them for the supplemental connections in the top left of the motherboard.
 

BoomerD

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Feb 26, 2006
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Do you think the RAM could really be causing this big of an issue? I have had many replies in other places I posted saying the RAM mismatch is not a real issue at all. That's also what articles I've googled say.

Or is this more like an aside, as in the RAM likely isn't doing this, but I should switch it out anyway for a better match?

I'd think that if the RAM is the cause, the RAM light would come on. COULD be rhe bent pins.. vot sure
 

BoomerD

No Lifer
Feb 26, 2006
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I read through all that, but may have missed it. Did you use the BIOS flashback to flash to the latest BIOS? The 7950X3D is a new processor, which will require the latest firmware in order to work.

Edit: Also, you do realize that your motherboard link links to the Z790, not the X670E, right?
I saw that ..went digging on the ASUS site.
 

Rocketlucco

Junior Member
May 17, 2008
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I read through all that, but may have missed it. Did you use the BIOS flashback to flash to the latest BIOS? The 7950X3D is a new processor, which will require the latest firmware in order to work.

Edit: Also, you do realize that your motherboard link links to the Z790, not the X670E, right?

I did not realize that. I will have to learn how do that process then. I wonder if that's just the problem unto itself? Would the entire computer just not post at all if that was it? At this point I am leaning on sending the motherboard back while it's still in the refund window, but I will make sure to flash the new one when they send it.
 

In2Photos

Golden Member
Mar 21, 2007
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I did not realize that. I will have to learn how do that process then. I wonder if that's just the problem unto itself? Would the entire computer just not post at all if that was it? At this point I am leaning on sending the motherboard back while it's still in the refund window, but I will make sure to flash the new one when they send it.
You have the correct motherboard. The 7950X3D would not physically fit in the Intel Z790 board. Also, the image you posted of the pins in the socket has Strix X670E-E Gaming WiFi clearly written on it.
 

Rocketlucco

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That does not look good. There should be no thermal paste on the contact points that will touch the mobo socket pins. I think I see paste on three contact points. Am I right or seeing things?

Yes, but that only occurred after I removed the chip while testing everything. Because I was clumsy. Gonna clean it off before I put it back in a new motherboard that I have coming. It was not like that when it was in the slot.
 

bba-tcg

Senior member
Apr 8, 2010
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I did not realize that. I will have to learn how do that process then. I wonder if that's just the problem unto itself? Would the entire computer just not post at all if that was it? At this point I am leaning on sending the motherboard back while it's still in the refund window, but I will make sure to flash the new one when they send it.
I don't know what behavior the board would exhibit with an unknown processor, but using the flashback function would remove the possibility of it being the problem.

Why not flash this one before sending it back?
 
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psionx

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May 1, 2023
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I have this EXACT same issue on a new 7800x3d and the same motherboard.

Flashed bios to latest using bios flashback. The process completed as normal but on boot I get nothing. No lights on the board...just the strix logo going.

An additional thing I discovered is that stuff will try to boot if you don't connect any cpu power 8 pins and you leave just the 24 pin connected.

Obviously you get a 00 code on the readout for no cpu but it is at least showing a deviation in behavior. Plugging the 8pins back reverts back to old behavior of not even attempting to boot.

Please help
 

In2Photos

Golden Member
Mar 21, 2007
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I have this EXACT same issue on a new 7800x3d and the same motherboard.

Flashed bios to latest using bios flashback. The process completed as normal but on boot I get nothing. No lights on the board...just the strix logo going.

An additional thing I discovered is that stuff will try to boot if you don't connect any cpu power 8 pins and you leave just the 24 pin connected.

Obviously you get a 00 code on the readout for no cpu but it is at least showing a deviation in behavior. Plugging the 8pins back reverts back to old behavior of not even attempting to boot.

Please help
Did you do this inside the case or outside the case? If disconnecting the 8 pin cables changes the behavior you still have 1 of 3 likely problems, PSU, CPU or motherboard unfortunately.
 

psionx

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May 1, 2023
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Did you do this inside the case or outside the case? If disconnecting the 8 pin cables changes the behavior you still have 1 of 3 likely problems, PSU, CPU or motherboard unfortunately.
Inside the case...I also have an overly elaborate custom loop installed so I really did not do good on this one

I think I know what the issue is...I think I've plugged pcie power cables into the cpu... thats why nothing comes on when they're connected. Everything goes into failsafe
 

In2Photos

Golden Member
Mar 21, 2007
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Inside the case...I also have an overly elaborate custom loop installed so I really did not do good on this one

I think I know what the issue is...I think I've plugged pcie power cables into the cpu... thats why nothing comes on when they're connected. Everything goes into failsafe
Wait, how could you do that? They should be physically different.
 

psionx

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May 1, 2023
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Wait, how could you do that? They should be physically
the psu side will plug into the motherboard cpu power slots and the pcie device side with the 2 cables will plug into the psu

...it was a royal screw up but I'd still hold out that it shouldn't be possible. why couldn't they use a different connector just like literally every other plug on a pc
 

In2Photos

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Mar 21, 2007
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the psu side will plug into the motherboard cpu power slots and the pcie device side with the 2 cables will plug into the psu

...it was a royal screw up but I'd still hold out that it shouldn't be possible. why couldn't they use a different connector just like literally every other plug on a pc
Oh wow. Hopefully it didn't cause any damage.